Stephenca118

If I remember correctly, I slipped the screen off, washed it in hot soapy water, removed the old o ring and gently wire wheeled the area so it was clean and shiney and installed a new o ring from my assortment, I think I coated it with vaseline to help it seal. The car was here for a few months after I had installed the gas tank and it never leaked while here, but I never put more than 5 gallons in it.

Howdy, I saw your note, yes I have not been on here at all, finished the 57 Buick and shipped it back to Monterey about six months ago, never heard back from the owner, oh well. Yes been on the Olds site as I am working on my 62 F85. As far as that outlet on the 57 Century I just used an O ring from my Harbor Freight assortment, and it never leaked as long as I had the car here. I did not tighten it very much, just about 6 to 10 foot pounds. Hope this helps.

Thank you, I will do the best I can on it. I don't know of anyone around here that will arc them but I will check it out. Thank you again for your input. Steve

Thank you for the input. I will try the pin adjustment check first. The drums are in good shape, only had to replace one that was 120 over. Now I am working on getting the horn to work. Here is a few pics of the T/S repair. I used a #4-40 screw. It may be hokey but it works. Just being gentle activating the T/S switch. I will let you know how the brakes turn out. The Olds is on the rack now with the gas tank removed so I will get the Buick back on it as soon as I can. Thank you all again for your valuable feedback, Steve

Wow, thank you all. A lot of great advice and experience. The Trans: Well it worked as rocktrader said. In D, nice and smooth, no slipping and I see how it is not the hydramatic that was in my 58 98. L is low and works well. I did not floor it, still babying the brakes. Ok, the brakes. Yea I read about that center pin centering issue and I think I am going to have to revisit that. When I got the car I could not get the LR brake drum off until I loosened the centering pin and whacked it with a mallet. And it seemed the more I drove it the better the brakes were. So I will do that before I do anything with the M/C. The choke stove, the tube goes into the back of the P/S exhaust manifold, and it broke off. Well rusted off actually. I have the tube, the spring plate on the carb, the threads are all messed up, I will try to clean them up and will make a stove and attach it to the top rear of the manifold with a big hose clamp. And see if that works. The car runs really well, starts right up, well with a bit of bendix issue, I will deal with that when it is in the air and I am visiting the brake pin issue. The front end is sloppy but I am not going to deal with that, I will set the toe as best I can. I will let you know how it works out. Thank you all again for taking the time to reply to my project, Steve

Thank you guys for the update on the electric choke conversion. I will try a stove first and see how that works. Good idea on the switch in the O/P line. I will think about it. Going to carefully take it down the street and see if it shifts, or not. Here is a few before and after interior shots. I still need to do the trunk. Thanks again, Steve

Good morning and thank you for the replys on the brakes. I have done a complete rebuild on the rest of the brake system, drums, shoes, all wheel cyl, all hoses, some steel lines, I guess booster is next. I will check Cars for the choke kit. Thank you all for reading. Steve

Hope you all have a great New Year. I have started mine out with getting back into the Buick, oh, and the Olds, but mostly on the Buick. After the Holiday festivities I started with the electrical system, all the lights and such. Got everything to work except for the turn signals. Ended up pulling the steering wheel and found the plastic cam that raises and lowers the T/S switch wire was broken. Checked out some hints of what to do in the forum and ended up drilling and tapping a #40 hole in it and carefully put in a screw with a nut at the head, and it works great. I am being gentle on operating it. I have had the motor running and using the evaporust with the inline filter to clean our the cooling system. Starting it 2 to 3 times a day. The motor runs great and does not smoke, which I find amazing. I installed all the weather stripping, carpets and seat belts. What a pain. The weather stripping is done except for the leading edge of the rear windows for the hardtop. I just got a sample to check. I had to remove the RF window regulator and redo it. The swing pivot was completely rusted solid. I had to put it in a vice and use large channel locks with lots of blaster to finally get it working smoothly. It is coming along but still got a ways to go. I have not driven it out of the drive yet, mostly because of weather and brakes. I got brakes, if I stand on the pedal. So, what am I looking at? I am tempted to open up the M/C booster and see what I got. The motor runs great so I do not suspect a massive vacuum leak through the booster. So that is the next project. I am guessing from the book that I have the Morain type of booster. Also what do you all do about the broken auto choke vacuum line? I remember back in the day installing a "choke stove" that transmits hot air into the auto choke housing. Is that what everyone is using or is the in thing to convert to electric? Those are the two major items I will start on tomorrow. And I will snap a few pics of the finished interior. Well that's it for now. Have a great week. Steve Ye Olde Car Club 1946 IH K2 1953 Ford Customline 4 Door Sedan 1957 Buick Century 4 Door Hardtop (not mine but it feels like it) 1962 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass Coupe 2021 Ram 1500 Hemi Laramie 2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland

Thank you for the info, sorry been busy, got back to work on the Buick. I had ordered that coolant filter, gano or something like that, after a few weeks I checked and shipping date was going to be Feb. 27, so I canceled the order and bought a different style. Finally got it, installed it and filled the radiator with water first to check for leaks. Tried to start it, first time since 88. Well my rebuilt carb, yes I did it, flooded. Reset the floats. Didn't flood but would not start. ( Sorry Bob, bypassing the carb switch for now, I will work on it, think I got the wiring figured out). So I found, actually my neighbor who was helping me, found the wire to the ballast was not connected. Hooked it up, cranked it over and sputtered and spit, and settled into a nice smooth purr. Blew a big mouse hotel out the exhaust, among a bunch of other unidentifiable stuff. It was tail in on the rack, so I had to finagle an exhaust out the shop window. So it runs and runs very smooth and amazingly, it does not smoke at all. The video is 44 MB so I can't attach it. I will put in a pic from the video. Lots of rust in the coolant filter at first. Cleaned it out and not so much now, got the stocking in the inlet now, after the cold snap we got coming next week, I will put the back end outside and run and flush the cooling system. The trans goes into gear, had to add a gallon of ATF, but I did install an external ATF cooler as the original leaked. I flushed the oil system, good oil pressure and the gen is charging. Next is getting the carpet installation completed, install the seat. The owner wants me to do the weather stripping, and exterior detail. Interior detail was completed and the seats came out very nice. Rear is original, fronts are a recover. Two windows will not go down, so need to work on that. Got the olds on the rack now, fixing the exhaust system that someone welded to the body. Thanks for the feedback. Steve I hope to drive it around the block after the first. Weather permitting.

Thanks Bob! I had no idea that was for the W/S wipers. The button is missing, not going to mess with it. On the starter circuit, not sure the relay is any good, will check it first when I get into the wiring, someone has been in it before. I did rebuild the carb and the ball is there in the switch does work, no wires going to it though. I did find the relay by the regulator and everything is very rusty, have not got to checking those out yet, but soon! Putting in the carpet today and starting on the wiring. Have a nice weekend, Steve

What are these two items for?

Got the heater plenum out, found this, guess I will be getting wired. Going to put in a push button via a relay for start to bypass the carb start switch.

Making slow progress on the Buick, the motor is in. Got the interior cleaned, went with cleaning instead of recovering the upholstery. Found some other issues and questions.

Got back to doing a bit on the Buick after the wind storm. Tree down missed my shop but hit the neighbor's. No damage, just a mess. Got the timing cover on finally, yes, I did remember the oil slinger, pan tomorrow, then freeze plugs and repair exhaust manifold broken bolt. Got the exhaust flapper working, was completely froze, was afraid I would break it but it flaps and spring returns like normal. We will see what happens after it gets hot. Thanks for looking.

Here you go Bob. The depth of the hole to the edge of the head was 2 1/8 inch. That was to the top of the head where the threads start. Looks like the sensor is about 1 7/16 or so. Drhach, I would not have been able to get it out without drilling if I had not removed the freeze plug. Then just PB blasted it on both side and wiggled it free. Then I used a brass HB bottle brush to clean out the seat for the sensor. Came out pretty good. Thank you again for your input, have a great weekend, Steve