DSpringer
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Posts posted by DSpringer
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Wow, gorgeous Tom! Now what will you do with all that spare time?
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Working on an old engine that was really rusted, I found I could place a cold chisel into the spring and break the valve guide. Then pull out the valve (or what's left of it), pry out the spring, and drive out whatever pieces of the guide are still in there. Having the attitude, "I can do this, but it might take some time" helps.
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Matt, if you search the forum for Phil Knapp, the first posting that comes up is an ad for his '41 Continental Cabriolet. It may still be available.
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Nice to see you Keith. Still enjoying my steering wheel.Too bad my latest acquisition doesn't need plastic parts - except for the whole body. (Yes, I'm also a Saab enthusiast. They have Ford motors though!)
Regards, Dave
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This is news I have been dreading, knowing Dave has been getting on in years and that he is an irreplaceable emissary for our cars. I encountered him at many of our LZOC West meets, including the Lodi GOF where he pointed out my bumper was mounted upside-down. Just a few weeks ago I sent him some information for use in Way of the Zephyr. Dave and his "Chief Indian" son Richard have produced what I believe to be the highest quality vintage car club magazine in the nation, and they have been a cohesive force and largely responsible for maintaining interest in the marque. Long will you be remembered for your decades of dedication, Dave.
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Figured it out. I did what I should have done, which is to remove the generator and pull it apart to make the armature hadn't thrown any solder. In the process I found one of the brushes was jammed and not making contact. A little silicone lube, and all fixed. I love these little exercises. Makes me feel better about taking long distance trips.
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When I ground the Field and apply negative to Armature, I get no rotation at all, and no spark when I connect the negative lead.
With your second test I get 0.1V ground to armature.
Thanks for the suggestions. Diagnosis?
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Ammeter showed battery was charging until last outing. Now no charge. Ammeter works (drops when headlights on). Followed generator test procedure in service bulletin: Jumper between Field and Arm, apply negative from battery to Arm to "motor" generator. Generator only motors when I spin it, and I only feel a force at one point in the rotation. Bad field coil?
Both brushes and the commutator appear fine. Voltage regulator relatively new.
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Here's how mine is wired. The numbers correspond to the numbers on Narragansett's harnesses.
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I have collected a lot of information on engine identification from George Tricket and others over the years. Too much to post. Email me at dapring42@gmail.com.
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You could ask Dee Peecher about the speedometer. He did my '41 several years ago and did a really nice job. Even replaced the nearly opaque plastic disk that covers the odometer with a new clear one.
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If you need one I think Narragansett might still have them.
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You might try Merv Adkins for the intake manifold. They also have come up on ebay several times. I recommend replacing valves with 49-53 Ford type with solid valve guides and seals on the intakes (Earl Brown has them). That plus a PCV valve for positive crankcase ventilation will help keep the sludge away and reduce oil consumption. Skip Haney did a great job rebuilding my water pumps with high capacity impellers. If I wasn't running a Melling M-15 oil pump I don't think I would have any oil pressure. Ebay also lists new valve lifters, if you need them.
If you need advice on removing valves, ask. It can be a nasty job on old engines that haven't run in awhile.
p.s. One of my engines had a rats nest in the valve bay. Yours looks cleaner.
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Based on what's on my '41 you clearly have a '41 - the one so marked. Please don't dump it. I won't be at Hershey, but someone there will take it.
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On mine I have to push in on the ring shown in Keith's photo and rotate to the right (counter-intuitive, I know).
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It saves knuckles to pull the fan. I ground down a box end wrench to fit the bolts. Part of my LZ toolkit now.
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Oil: There's been a lot of discussion on the forum about the importance of using oil that contains ZDP (zinc additive), which is supposed to help preserve the cam from wear. I've been using Valvoline VR1 racing oil, which contains ZDP (it fouls catalytic condensers in newer cars). I've been running 20W-50 because I'm in the hot central CA valley and have had low oil pressure, even with a Melling M-15 pump. If you don't like that advice, Castrol has an article on what oil to use:
http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/products/cars/classic-oils/classic-engine-oils.html
Gas Tank: I used the POR-15 three step kit to clean and seal my tank, which was pretty rusty but had no leaks. It's worked very well. The filter has stayed clean.
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Hi Dee. Still have another?
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Here's a couple I found back when I was looking. I would stay away from Bob Waller of Classic Auto Services. He does great work but it took me 13 months and a lot of threats and cajoling to get my parts back.
Classic Woodgraining Mike Thompson 2640 Fairfield Pike Springfield, Ohio 45502 mike@classicwoodgraining.com 866-472-4648 Grain-It Technologies Inc. Evan Westlake 334 Commerce Court Winter Haven, FL. 33880 Evan@woodgraining.com 863-299-4494 -
I don't have a trade but interested in buying the '41. daspring42@gmail.com
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Got my seals from Narragansett Reproductions quite a few years ago but I think they still have them. Have to drill out some rivets but it's not too difficult.
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At last notice Frenchy Dehoux lives in Queen Creek, AZ. I checked a few member directories and he wasn't listed, though I've seen his posts in years past. He's made some recent posts on The Ford Barn and you can try reaching him there.
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Boiled both floats, no bubbles. I haven't found a pressure gauge that reads as low as 3 lbs, but the problem may have been excess fuel pump pressure.
I have two fuel pumps, one that came with another engine (AC, Made in USA) and a new one that looks nearly identical acquired from Sacramento Vintage Ford, but without any markings. I removed both springs, placed a strip of wood across them, and put a lead weight dead center on the wood. The AC spring was about 1/4" lower than the new one. After replacing the new spring with the old one I haven't experienced the overflow problem, but who knows what new mysteries time will bring?
Now my speedometer is screaming at me. Always something, but it keeps me out of the bars.
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Hey Jeff, are you using an AM transmitter and playing through your stock radio? Where did you find a 6V FM radio?
39 Zephyr Is Done
in Lincoln & Zephyr
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Yes, beautiful! Love the red leather interior and the black walls really work with that color.