DSpringer
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Posts posted by DSpringer
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Thanks, Tom. I might try the vacuum brake adjustment just for fun. As I said in my earlier post, I bought the distributor from Rolf Burdette, and he said it was gone over by Jake Flemming. I have a spare that I had Jake do also, but they're so much fun to change out that I think I'll save it for a time when I need some cheering up. I'm pretty happy with how she's running now, but it would be good to know what vacuum I'm pulling. None of my power valves are numbered. Any suggestions on vacuum gauges?
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Talking to myself, here. Installing the power valve from my collection that has the weakest spring appears to have fixed the surging. Theory: The PCV valve I installed is increasing manifold pressure, causing the power valve to remain partially open. It is the low pressure in the intake manifold that pulls the valve closed against the spring tension.
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Mike, look under V12 Lincolns for a post on Feb. 6 by Shirley Hopkins.
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If you want good crankcase ventilation you should search for posts by Dee Peecher on the subject.On his advice I added a Columbia vacuum takeoff block under the carb that connects to a PCV valve threaded into the vacuum port of the intake manifold on my '41. Not correct, but like Melling oil pumps and solid valve guides with seals, are an improvement on the original design. I haven't had any points taken off in the two shows where I've been judged.
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More swapping parts and adjustments and I got some improvement. I don't have a tach so I don't know what RPM I have at idle, or what the vacuum is. I just lower the idle stop screw and adjust the needle valves until I get that nice smooth idle. The needle valves end up being about 3/4 open.
Another problem, I get a lot of surging when accelerating in first and second gear. I've tried swapping out three different power valves with different spring tensions with little or no improvement.Tom, the vacuum brake adjustment is the screw with lock nut on the side of the distributor? What does backing it off do to the spark advance? Wondering if that might be responsible for the surging. According to the late Rolf Burdette the distributor was refurbished by Jake Fleming about 12 years past.
With my restoration projects done I'm just trying to get her to purr and be more of a pleasure to drive.
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Never mind, found it. Great article!
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I have been unable to solve a crazy problem: When I come to a stop the engine dies - every time - unless I approach the stop very slowly or pull the accelerator knob out to raise the RPM above idle. It doesn't happen going in reverse. Float adjusted per spec. I have swapped parts using my three carbs and done several rebuilds to try to solve the problem but to no avail. Anyone else experience this?
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Tom, I have a spare engine to build up and could use this, but the link is not hyperlinked and I can't find any threads under Shirley Hopkins.
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Anyone know where to get these, or have a pattern for them? One thing I missed when putting the engine back together.
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I used a 3/8" pipe tap to create threads in the breather hole in my intake manifold (being careful to vacuum out the shavings). The PCV threads right in. I connected it to a BK-49 manifold spacer/vacuum takeoff from columbiatwospeedparts.com. If I had blow-by I wouldn't know it. Also installed the solid valve guides with seals on intakes.
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Thanks, Tom. I've been searching for the right power valve. They either surge too early or too late. Originally I thought a stronger spring meant they would open slower, but now I believe they are "normally open" and are held closed by vacuum working against the spring tension. So the weaker the spring the leaner the mixture. Do I have that righht?
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Rolf left us several years ago. He provided me with my carb, distributor, and several other parts before he departed. Great loss.
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My original pump could not supply enough fuel. I ran it for awhile with a spacer to get more lift, but that was an imperfect solution. I bought a new one from Sacramento Vintage Ford, and couldn't keep it from overpowering the float valve and flooding the engine with gas. I replaced the spring with the spring from the old one, and now it is "just right." I have over 2,000 miles on it and no problems.
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Glad to hear it, Keith. The seals I got from Narragansett in the 80's don't allow the windows to close completely. Keep us posted.
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I should have known by looking at the plates that wasn't Jay's. When we visited him he had a black '41 Cabriolet in his garage, and I must have confused it with the one he brought. So the Rockingham Tan one must be his.
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When I have to go there on the '41 I find pulling the front seat (just four bolts) to gain leg room and putting a big pillow on the pedals makes it a little less uncomfortable.
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To the right is George Poore's '47. Looks deceive. He has driven this all over the U.S. and beat me for longest driven distance to the Hamilton, MT GOF. To the left is Jay Moyle's exquisite '41. Jay bailed us out of one of our generator misadventures, driving 100 miles out of his way.
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Ron,
The attached diagram might help. When I installed new Narragansett wiring I did a lot of head scratching when it came to the circuit breaker. I recently expanded on this drawing to figure out why my generators were failing. The numbers correspond to the numbering on the Narragansett wiring diagrams, but they date to the 80's and may have changed. The color codes should be right.
The hardest part for me was threading the big yellow wire through the ammeter. I have to pull my instrument cluster to lube my speedometer (which is loudly squealing), so I get to enjoy that trip again.
Dave
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$75?
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The diagnosis Bob at Auto & Truck Electric gave me was that it was a combination of current draw from our 6V-12V converter and the high temperatures. The age of the generators no doubt contributed. The two voltage regulators we were using were only slightly out of calibration. We will think twice before making long trips in high temperatures, as much for our comfort as for the welfare of the car.
Thanks for all of your input.
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Been meaning to post at least one picture of this really enjoyable event (despite our generator woes). Much larger turnout than I expected. What a beautiful place for a GOF, with green forests, snow capped mountains, and fresh mountain streams teaming with trout!
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Thanks, Toms. The explanation Tom N. provided matches what Bob said and makes sense. Before the second generator fried the ammeter was showing a high rate of charge, but the third one (with the new voltage regulator) showed only a moderate charge. The generators were so hot that when we poured water on them they steamed. What's really baffling is that we had no problems driving the 900 miles to Hamilton. It was only on the return trip that we started having issues. We did polarize the generators after they were installed by jumpering briefly between field and battery.
The wiring diagram for the 41 shows a wire connecting the case of the voltage regulator to the case of the generator. I verified that the grounding wire, which is in the harness, is in place at that there are zero ohms of resistance between the voltage regulator case and the generator. There is no third brush. Next step is to send the regulators to Bob to check out.
This car was owned by our grandmother (she died in 1967 at 89). She has been blamed for certain strange occurrences, such as scaring undesirable tenants out of the old family cabin. In Nevada we were caught in a tremendous thunderstorm and the windshield wipers acted like the vacuum hose was disconnected. Back at the hotel I checked the vacuum lines and they were all connected and the wipers worked just fine. Go figure.
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We replaced the regulator with a brand new one from Napa and still fried a rebuilt generator - so that makes three we burnt up on the return trip. We dropped one of the generators off at Auto & Truck Electric in Sparks, NV on Wednesday. Bob, the owner, called this morning to say he had already re-wound the armature and it was ready to pick up. He also told us that Optima's can be death on generators because their charge rate exceeds the capacity of the generator. I'm sending him a couple of voltage regulators to see if they might have been the problem. Apparently they can install alternators inside the generator casing. I'm thinking hard about that.
If you're ever in Salmon, Idaho you must visit Lee at the wrecking yard on South Cherokee Road. The most amazing collection of antique autos I've ever seen. And the best stories! All the adversity we experienced put us in touch with people who are incredibly kind and helpful.
We could have made it home from Fernley, Nevada on the new battery we bought, but probably couldn't have gotten over Donner Summit in the 98 deg. temperatures and might have died in the 112 deg. heat in the valley if we had. With help from our friends we trailered her the rest of the way home from Reno.
We REALLY enjoyed GOF in the Bitterroot. That, plentiful trout from the Big Hole, and he kindness of strangers made the trip worth it.
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Returning from GOF West in Montana to California I noticed the ammeter jumping around a lot. Just before reaching Salmon, ID we started smelling something burning and the ammeter needle went to neutral - in other words no generation. The generator felt hotter than usual, like the field coil had overheated.
Is it possible for a bad voltage regulator to take out the field coil? I had trouble with one of the brushes before and will check that in the morning, but I'm concerned the generator is fried. Have too far to go on battery, and need to drive at night to avoid the 110 deg. CA heat.
Freshly Rebuilt V-12 Started Today!
in V12 Lincolns Only
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Gorgeous engine!
I have oil pressure envy. Even with a Melling I never see it above 30 at high RPM. Must have lost another crankshaft plug.