Amphicar BUYER
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Posts posted by Amphicar BUYER
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I GOTTA PEE!!!
<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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I don't remember where I saw the definition, but there are specific numbers relating to the percentage of the car that has been repaired or replaced. These numbers determine if the car is a "survivor" (all original, only repair work done was maintenace type work) or "restored". Restored ALWAYS means returned to "as delivered" condition which includes the factory overspray and inspection marks. The '34 Ford with a chopped top and Hemi engine is not restored. Any change from the "as delivered" condition makes it from a mild custom to a Rod.
Repairing the seat upholstery is only maintenance. Replacing the whole interior is a start in the restoration as long as it is a "correct" interior.
YMMV
<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
John
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Just bumping this to the top 'o the list. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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I run synthetics (Amsoil) exclusively in the Amphicar, Trans, engine, grease etc. The trans is quieter, the engine runs great!
My '92 Ranger runs synthetic oil, it has 197,000 on it, starts in -20F every time easilly. It passes emissions with the same exact numbers as it did in '92. When running synth oils, you can safely double or tripple the time between changes because of the pollutants that do not exist with synth fluids. The extra cost is off set by this, so why not?
John
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm one of the grumpy people that doesn't think someone with a camera has the right to ask 25-50 people to move out of their picture. There's only so much time to view the show and I think it rude to ask everyone to cater to a camera. </div></div>
It really is frustrating when I am trying to take a picture and some rude SOB can't wait 1/250th of a second to place his fat butt in front of my camera. It is a show, and people will be taking pictures. I think it is VERY rude for somebody to not pay attention to the people around them. Do you know how many times people have butted in front of me? I can't stand up to see around or over them. Next time you're in a movie, I guess you wouldn't mind if somebody stands in front of you then? It's not "catering to a camera" it is just plain old courtesy.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Amphicar (John), My Amphicar came from Utah a few years ago and was advertised in Hemmings so I'm told, what are that chances that was my car? </div></div>
Ron,
The car in Utah is in a museum and still advertised in traderonline.com and Hemmings which is where "your-a-nut" found it I'm sure. It happens to be the same color-ish as yours is now. Odd, yes being that your color is not a Amphicar color. It's the same as the Pontiac Moon car white w/blue piping interior. It's way overpriced! Here is the pic from traderonline....
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Once you meet Randall in person, you just know he will a fair guy. He is intelligent and eloquent beyond what you see in print. We are in good hands! (that includes all the "big wigs")
John
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Let me apologize for misspelling your name. I really need to practice paying attention. </div></div>
Ken_B - Apology accepted, but not needed at all! My name is spelled "JOHN" (with an "H" if you please). People mis-spell Amfi... ampi...amfibi..amphicar (that it! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />) all the time. I knew who you meant. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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Thanks for the kudos from both Randall and Sal, I am humbled <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />. I try to post something with some sort of redeeming value, for me at least! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I can't say I agree with all that is done or said, but I value and respect your position and responsibility to the list. This forum is truely a gift to all only there for the taking. Think how the lives and passions of all of those here would be different if it were not for this connection!
"We're not worthy!" <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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Well I think that Euro-nutz spelled it out himself and didn't know it. I don't usually comment in public about PMs, but this guy's comments needed to be aired.
He did mention 4 times about his $900 day allegedly in travels to go check out 2 Amphicars for me publically in several posts. I only asked him for info which I would gladly pay for if it leads to a sale. He insinuated that I owe him the $900! The only info I got was that there were a red and blue car that are going to auction in the "Arkansas circut" and I should look in the traderonline.com site because " [color:"red"]I have to tell you that I've gone as far as I'm going to go on this. Tracking down these cars was financially ruinous for me ". Then he was all happy about a car "he found" in Utah. It has been for sale for 2 1/2 years in Hemmings and co-indecently in traderonline.com! So I figured out his "help" quickly. As an added note, he would not give me a phone number, full name (Only gave me "Bob") or call me. He kept saying he couldn't afford a phone. He could afford to drive all over the place on a whim, but no phone? He also refused my offer for him to call collect. Big red flag!
Maybe he had some real contibutions too add, but wading through the BS is not worth the trip.
John
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Every time I see your car photo I smile. I had a chance a couple of years ago to chat with a fellow who was showing his 62 Amphicar, the stories he told about the car and his experiences with it were great. </div></div>
These cars do that! They just make you smile! I have a few stories myself.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There's something magical about the concept of driving a car right into the lake and keeping on going.
</div></div>
Ahh, the real trick is to drive back <span style="font-weight: bold">out</span> of the water! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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Like I had said before "[color:"red"]Not based on what you know, but based on your presentation" No need to tally up all your offers, (for the 4th time about the $900 already) or keep track on the generous offers for help. <span style="font-weight: bold">It is not what you say, but how you said it!</span> It is not a personal attack at all, it is good advice from good people. If we didn't care, nobody would respond! All we want you to understand is how you come across so you can correct the problem. That last reply has not helped your cause at all.
Sit back and re-read your posts, then imagine how that comes across <span style="font-weight: bold">in print</span> . Think of it as a learning process to better your communication skills.
We all have had our trials in life, I missed high school graduation too. Why? Because I was living in my car ('68 LeSabre), working 3 jobs at the age of 16, I became paralyzed at the age of 20. I could add more details that movies are made about, but it means NOTHING in the scope of things! It was a learning experience that continues to this day and will continue until they close the lid. So as they say "Cowboy up!" <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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Another spirited WELCOME! to you. There is so much info in her, not to mention the many good people too. (Oh wait, did I mention that? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />) I have met a few face to face, and a few only via email. I wouldn't know most if I ran 'em over, most have a lot to offer and some are lurkers. We all love dem cars!
I have never had more than a passing interest in V-dubs not to say I don't like them (I do). I like to oddball cars as my name here will attest to. A typical VW can kick my Amphicar's a$$ (until the shoreline)!
Show us what ya got! (please?) <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
John
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Howard,
I have to agree with you on this. The picture I have of him is not a good one based on the tirades, thinly veiled insinuations and contradictions. For a newbie to waltz in and blather all over here, and attack without cause is just not a good way to EARN respect here or anywhere. Respect is earned, not a right.
Bob (Euro-nut) - Take these observations as a way of redeeming yourself as best you can. It is not a personal attack, only an observation. You have made a poor name for yourself, now it is up to you to correct that if you want to be a viable part of the forum. There are a number of people who have no or very little respect for you. Not based on what you know, but based on your presentation. You have said some things that indicate you have some valuable content to contribute. Then you come off with some off the wall BS that we as car people know to be bad advice (I will not get into specifics). The offer to moderate is well intentioned, but ill advised. You haven't show "self moderation", how do you expect to moderate others?
I don't profess to be an expert in anything. I do know I have been restoring cars since I was in 8th grade as well as turning wrenches professionally off and on for most (well over 1/2) of my 42 years. There are a lot of ways to skin a cat to be sure, but there are a lot of wrong ways as well. I am guilty of both, who isn't? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> But I try to respect other's opinions and the fact that I am not infallible. We will surely disagree, but that can bring one some great discussions if properly presented. So take this for what it's worth to you, just my .02 worth. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
John
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Was the ONLY a family name or what is the story behind the moniker?
If ONLY I knew! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd bet dollars to donuts it's a racing fluid. Let me check my books. I'll get back to you on that. </div></div>
This discussion is not about it's racing applications (It has many applications), so keep you KKs and please stick with the topic at hand. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Randall,
In your case DOT5 would not be worth the efforts (or $$) needed to switch. Stick with DOT3, you will have a firmer pedal which is a good thing in your beauty. Most of the time the choice is a matter of preferance, not usually much more than that. Proper tools for the job, ya know! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
I am replacing all the brake lines on my customers Amphicar due to his original lines swelled and now won't relesae the shoes <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />. He is sticking with DOT3
John
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a access window in the backing plate for star wheel adjustment? </div></div>
It is a 3 shoe setup. <span style="font-weight: bold"> [color:"red"]As I recall </span> , these have a nut type adjuster on the back. Only modern iron with 2 shoes have a star wheel adjuster.
I'd bet it's weak/mal-adjusted wheelbearing or cable length/installation issue.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think DOT5 is a racing fluid. It's for high temp applications. I know because I've special ordered it for race cars before. </div></div>
Nope, it's not reccomended for racing applications, it will handle the temps, but it take a bit more maintenance. Yearly bleedings and as any fluid, it should be changed occasionally. Even DOT3 should be changed every 25k. Just like anything, choose the correct tool for the job. I thought you were a mechanic? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've special ordered it for race cars before. Are you finding it on the shelf? </div></div>
Any auto parts store has it. Even AutoZone carries it! NAPA has it, Pep Boys, etc.... It is expensive though. I think I paid about $27 for a quart. OUCH! But that is cheaper than a spot repair on my fender.
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I use DOT5 (silly-cone) rather than DOT3 brake fluid in my Amphicar because it is hygroscopic (doesn't absorb water). The pedal is a bit softer, but spills and leaks will not harm the finish. Just be sure that you don't have it anywhere you are doing new paint work. Silicone plays hell with paint prep as it can cause fisheye.
No need to worry about starting out fresh or flushing your system with alcohol (good idea if at all possible). You can flush it out while changing the fluids. First, use low pressure compressed air to remove most of the DOT3 from the lines only. Then add the DOT5 fluid, bleed the system until you are 100% certain you have all the DOT3 out. DOT5 is a light purple color, watch for the clear purple out each bleeder. DOT5 is very expensive!
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey [censored], since I was ranting and raving I posted it down there myself. Course you're so wrapped up in your own problems you probably didn't notice. Why don't you go get a life. </div></div>
Bob, CHILL! All you needed to do was to say you moved it there. The attack was un-neccessary! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" /> For a new guy here, you are not going to earn any respect from anyone like this. Just some friendly advice. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
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If the log weighs 6000lbs, and you are dragging it on the ground, you are exerting well over twice, maybe 2 1/2 times the weight of the log on your hitch. It's not the U-haul hitch, it the nut holding the wheel! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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Here in Colorado, you can try to circumnavigate the reg. fees, but once you do register, they will make you pay retroactive to when you bought it. If the car sits for 3 years w/o plates, you will pay that 3 years along with the new plates. Yet another bad idea. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />
Getting back to the subject, I milled off the bottom part of my plate frames so the "COLORADO" could be seen because I like the look of my plates. I have a 1964 CO plate on the front of the Amphicar, so far nothing has been said. (I probably shouldn't have said that! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />)
John
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Not a "silly question" if you don't know the answer!
Besides being able to fill the carb, it can be very useful when the original one craps out, or if you have vapor locking issues. I have one piggy-backed on my Amphicar's original, works fine.
Unrestored and Restored, What's in between?
in General Discussion
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It has a key scratch in the paint and they've been debating whether to get it painted or not because they are concerned about whether that would affect the value negatively.</div></div>
Depending of the severity (how deep and how much area) of the scratch, maybe it could be buffed out? Maybe try spotting it in to retain the majority of the paint rather than a total repaint.