lrlforfun
-
Posts
1,354 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by lrlforfun
-
-
OK Gerard: I can't answer you question for several reasons. The car I did is undercover, our area is somewhat dry compared to the Eastern part of the country, I haven't really gotten the car wet to the degree of how it would be had it been parked outside in heavy precipitation.
I didn't use clear. I used some lemon oil and that seemed to darken the veneer up a wee bit after the stain settled. I hope this lasts because I would have to take the door panel off and repeat the process if it fails.
One last item of note. Clarks offers pins that fasten the door panel to the door shell. The upholstery shop I used used grasshopper clips. The advantage is that they are forgiving and the door panel can be removed many times with out the fasteners falling apart. Now......the pins that hold the metal backing plate in place may not be as forgiving!
Your wood is looking good Chris.
Mitch
-
OK Chris: I used 3-M's #90 spray adhesive. It's really sticky, and is $14 a can (high). Follow directions carefully. DON'T FORGET...................this stuff is really sticky so make sure the veneer panels are really lined up before they touch the metal because this stuff is somewhat UN forgiving. Mitch
-
OK Riviera people: I went to MacBeath Hardwoods in Berkeley, CA. http://www.macbeath.com/ They have an extensive veneer catalog. I brought over a complete kit i had and showed the clerk. he marched me up to the veneer section pointed to Walnut and sold me a 84 X 24" piece. This walnut had the grain i liked and......had the adhesive on the back.
I got some templates from the Angry Pilgrim (a member of this forum) and I will continue to produce some panels, hopefully, the more I get into it the better my skill level. It's not rocket science but without a teacher I am stumbling across all the details that come up. It is going smoother though.
Remember there are the boarder trim pieces that need to be r & r'ed, the galvanized plate needs to be smooth and clean, the pins on the plate can easily break, and so forth. Mitch
-
OK Matt, OK Jan: First, I begin every thread with OK. It ain't gonna change and I don't feel an apology is necessary. If you think I'm chastising you in particular, I'm not. My full intention is to chastise the group. What I am trying to do is chastise all the people who want to help and are really clueless (much like me) in diagnosing. Many really want to help and to me, help is in the form of learning scientific procedures.
How in the world can somebody diagnose a vehicle with out being there? There are proven scientific procedures and these are what need to be discussed. That, to me, would be supporting a fellow member. A noise? Come on now. The fact that Matt is on a limited budget as well as having limited time has NO bearing on what I'm trying to do here. What would help Matt, who I'm guessing doesn't know that much about cars from what he's said, would be to explain a diagnostic procedure/s.
So, what are diagnostic procedures? A compression check, a cylinder leak down test, an electrical check, a fuel check, oil pressure check, vacuum check, cooling system check,knowing how the thing works, isolating system components (including noises) identifying why the component/system actually failed. I'm missing quite a bit too.
No Risolone? That's a freebee from me. It is very hot and could easily stir sludge from the pan causing the oil pickup to clog. Kabam engine.
I'm trying to raise the bar on the standards of fixing these cars (or anything else for that matter). If you think my posts are offensive pleas contact Lamar so he can delete them.
Finally....you are welcome to join the 1960 Buick Universe and see how things roll on that trail. I'm done here. Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: Again, with the ridiculous internet diagnosis. Do this, do that. I'm not going to make friends here. How about me telling you what you DON'T want to hear?
I suggest a list of scientific diagnostic procedures. Randomly replacing parts? Come on now! Throwing out suggestions? Y'all know better. Maybe you're right, maybe not. Way too maybees for me and I'm not a mechanic. I recently participated on a BCA thread where the member mentioned his car developed a smoking out the tailpipe problem. Everybody said it was something or could have been something. My suggestion was to identify what was coming out of the tailpipe and start there.
So....I suggest that Powerage start with the given. It is 50 years old. it runs, it has noises that don't sound like they belong there. This is the starting point. Now what is the next scientific step? OH, BTW, Want to blow up your car in a hurry? Use Risilone.
Identify a single problem. Isolate it, diagnose it, verify diagnosis, repair the issue, identify and exactly why the component failed. Then, go on to the next issue. As always, don't forget to backtrack.
I really hope that by chastising you will be aware of how important a proper diagnosis is in the successful repair and proper performance of a nice piece of machinery. Don't forget......it can be a toaster, a reclining couch or a widget. I also hope that I can get a movement of support in this direction because this internet fixing of cars is a toxic epidemic that lowers the bar for all. Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: A question. Are all 63, 64 standard and all 65 radio trim plates the same, including the vinyl applique? Mitch
-
OK Mike: I have seen countless numbers of 65 Rivieras with particularly saddle colored arm rest bases that were busted up. Why saddle I wonder? Any will do to replace. You just need to paint them a gloss saddle to match.
DOUSE (WD-40) those pins that keep the door panel to the dour shell before you remove the door panel. You can also douse the nuts that hold the base from the rear too. The more fastening pins the better! Mitch
-
OK Roberta: I'm glad you joined. We have many giants such as yourself from the Buick Community on board. Don't be a stranger, Mitch!
BTW we're up to 342 members. Thanks to all.
-
OK Riviera People: My core sample is on it's way to the Angry Pilgrim. Hopefully he can lazer etch a piece of plastic that can attach to the cradle at a much more reasonable cost than $50. Remember, the power seat switch is also in the mix.
A question? Are the colors for the power window and power switch wire looms different for 63, 64 and 65? A diagram included with the re-fabricated keeper would prove invaluable. Mitch
-
OK Roberta: Put it up on the Facebook page The 1960 Buick Universe. Good chance you'll strike pay dirt! Mitch
-
OK Michel: A proper diagnosis is a scientifically conducted procedure. Jason's suggestion is right on, so is Old Tank. First things first. You must find out what it is that's coming out the tail pipe. I have also seen brake fluid get sucked from the master into the combustion chamber. Remember, it's an unknown until it's identified.
Identify the issue/s, verify the diagnosis and don't forget to identify WHY the part/s, components failed. Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: It's time for me to re-assemble the console in a 64 Riv. The problem is that it's been apart before and not only are parts missing, I can't seem to find a diagram of how it goes together. I have a few questions.
1. Are the console innards the same for a/c vs non a/c? This is an a/c car. If not, what might the differences be? I have a non a/c 64 Parts car, thus my question.
2. Is there a diagram available that shows an exploded view? If not, could someone please post a picture so I can get a good idea of how it goes together.
3. I resprayed the black color with SEM trim paint. Was that a good choice?
4. I did notice the 65 Console has a shorter rear end trim piece (lighter and rear lens piece). Besides the shifter pernduls are there other differences between the innards of a 63, 64 and 65?
Thanks, Mitch
-
OK Ed: Russ Martin at Centerville Auto Parts sells a bronze bushed set-up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-nailhead-REBUILT-BUSHED-rocker-arms-chromed-SHAFTS-1959-1966-364-401-425-/130785732710?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e736fe866&vxp=mtr
I've had good luck with Russ and his products. Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: I have a few driver's 4 gang, Custom interior power window switch cradles that are broken. The problem seem like the "keeper plate" cardboard type material that holds the individual wires in place in the plastic cradle gets brittle and then they start coming loose and failing.
If someone could reproduce a substitute plate with a pin/screw type set-up to secure it to the cradle that would be fantastic. The power seat switch also seems to suffer from the same deterioration problem. Would anyone know of such a set-up? Mitch
-
OK Buick people: I spy a resemblance to vinyl pattern of the 63 Le Sabre wagon interior. Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: I purchased a pair of Clark's door panel cardboard. My upholstery guy had no problem attaching the hardware from the weathered (custom) door panels. He used grasshopper type clips to fasten the panel to the door shell. This allows on/off several times if necessary. The pins, although oem are not nearly as durable. He used his own felt, OEM vinyl and the carpet provided by Clarks in their carpet set to build the exterior. Aside from my amateur wood job they look good!
The 61-64 impala people I heard have re-popped the door rail, the top metal piece the fuzzies attach to. The Rivieras to the best of my knowledge haven't got their due yet on these items. I am anxiously awaiting the re-pops on the 59-60 GM door rails.
As far as hardware goes the door paddles and wind cranks and wood veneer kits are available. The rest of the hardware like the galvanized piece with the stainless trim, and the trim under the plastic arm rest fillers are not available new. Mitch
-
OK Dave: A suggestion. Clean the inside of the turbine cap with some steel wool, clean the edges of the fasteners the same and spray a little bit of WD-40 on the areas that touch....It makes it a wee bit easier. Mitch
-
OK Tim: My suggestion would to be to get a new headliner and sail panels from a local shop. I am not trying to spend your money. Fixing 50 year old vinyl ? You'd be back at page #1 sooner than later. Mitch
-
OK Riviera people: Two things I don't like about this car. The vinyl top.....which is really a personal preference whether it's correct or not. The other item? I feel the price is obscene.Correct the price and all the minor picky stuff melts away. The car? Really happy and how many powder blue's with black interior have you seen? Lots of powder blues with blue, but black is kinda nice. Mitch.
-
OK Riviera People: What is the advantage in a higher amp alternator than a stock set-up? Mitch
-
OK F-Zad: How about a location. I would buy it all.....but where?? Shipping could really add a lot. Mitch
-
OK Tom: The 65 has 7 vacuum lines coming out of the firewall that I can count....the 64?? Thanks, Mitch
-
OK Riviera People: Y'all boycottin' me? Mitch
-
OK Ed: Coincidentally I'm there too. I ordered a few parts from Russ and asked him about that wire. He was quite clear about the fact there were no reproductions out there. I'm just going to tape mine up as best I can. It looks like winds from the battery relay through a clamp underneath the washer jug in front of the power steering hose, resting on the steering box and in back of the inner fender. Then to the starter. Did I miss something? Mitch
Faircloth Buick - Tampa History?
in Buick - General
Posted
OK Rozzi: I came to Tampa in June, 1969. There were Faircloth Buick front plates on the majority of old Buicks at the time. From what I could guess, Fairloth was an old school Buick dealer that had been there a long time and I believe they sold out to Royal Buick who was the new dealership with the typical GM signature signs and showroom design. They were located on Dale Mabry near Tampa Stadium.
The Buccaneer was synonymous with Gasparilla Day, a big deal in Tampa. That was a long time ago and I'm sure some Tampa natives can add lots more. Mitch