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lrlforfun

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Posts posted by lrlforfun

  1. OK Devildog93: A very difficult job. I recently watched an episode of "Overhauling" where Chip Foose gets a repro 1/4 panel and cuts out the piece to match the rusted sliver of the 63 Nova he was working on. First of all, his skill set is very high and there aren't many body men (there are some) who can pull that off like Chip did.

    Again......He had the new 1/4 panel, the high tech shop and the high skill set. How many Riviera People have the luxury of all three? Not me. Mitch

  2. OK Rivnik: Are the spokes all tight? When you assemble them the tab in the center piece needs to face the hole for the valve stem. The spinners have the 4 longer screws, the centerpiece has the 8 shorter ones. The medallion should have no play in the spinner either. There's also a slot for alignment.

    Sometimes you can take vice grips and tug at the end of the grippping tabs. If the thing is still creaking after all that use a spray of WD-40 and place the sprap rod end right in between the tab and the outer ring that butts against the rim. Mitch

  3. OK Jim: I don't have a piece you are looking for. I did want to mention that the Custom vinyl is much thicker than the Standard vinyl. I believe clarks offers only the Custom, which is higher quality. Good luck because i know exactly what you want to do. Mitch

  4. OK Bill: The quality of vendors in this area has gone down hill for some time now and it doesn't seem like it's slowing down either. Most don't like old cars and certainly aren't familiar with them from dealing with them on a daily basis. For example......

    Machine shops. Fewer and fewer and they make their $$$ on brake drums, rotors and head jobs. If they do a motor it's usually a ground up rebuild no matter what the case. Many hate dealing with the public too.

    Upholstery shops. Fewer and fewer, The lousy ones are a nightmare to deal with, the less-than-hand full of good ones are booked for a long time in advance because they are so busy.

    Tranny shops. They hate old school because they don't want to tie up their bench waiting for parts, they don't have builders who are familiar with the ins and outs of the old stuff and it's just a major distraction for them in general.

    Body shops. No shortage and it's pick a price. Sticker shock here. The body work so much more forgiving than mechanical work too.

    Other shops like radiator, glass, TBA places are all geared to late models. Finding a good vendor is tough. Some guys think that if they find a vendor who does quality work located in the sticks or working in a shop in back of their house is like so wow. It's a fantasy, no different than finding a 64 Riviera babied and extremely serviceable from it's original owner. They do exist, just don't hold your breath.

    In general a consumer needs to really do their homework before doing business with any shop these days. BTW, I haven't answered your specific question and do have my share of horror stories...with cancelled checks to prove it. Mitch

  5. OK Riviera People: This car sold for what someone was willing to pay for it. I think it's worth 12,750. No, how about 15 grand? No, how about 20 grand? A legit offer is for the people who have the dough and are willing to step up with the dough at the time it's for sale otherwise it's speculation. The Astros could win the series too.

    Jackson-Barrett announces a 15% buyers premium (Mecum 10%?)and a seller's premium of 10%. The seller of this silver Riv gets the $8,250- $825, Net check of $7,325. The buyer really gets soaked. He pays $9400 and gets to give the DMV another 10% tax and license. $10,300. If the buyer is lucky enough to get to hire a transporter he's in to it another $1,200-1,500 Total? Easily 11 grand. prices? Anyone's guess. Mitch

  6. OK Riviera People: A few things minor things to add. What used to be a somewhat straight forward job of r & ring those door panels can easily turn into a real difficult job if not approached with meticulous detail. First, Father Time has put all kinds of roadblocks in front of us.

    1. Make sure each and every nut easily "glides" on the threads all the way.

    2. Test each and every T-bolt in it's pocket securely because if you put on the door panel and they spin and don't tighten you are in trouble. The time to do this ideally is before metal and paint work (if possible).

    3. If you are going to replace the fuzzies on the stainless door trim piece with the repro parts make sure they are aligned with the trim piece and it's square on the door where it's supposed to be as well as secure. The kit gives a set of sheet metal screws which work fine.

    Finally, a question. Is there a clip kit for the door and other body side moldings.

    Mitch

  7. OK Chris: I've had it with those darn speed nuts. In the early 80's I removed all the trim from my 65 Riv for paint and I put barrel fasteners in the holes to secure the emblems when I put them back on . Pretty simple. The peg from the emblem goes into the hole (a barrel with a micro flange on the end). They can also be pried off easily for the future . I'm sure we all get that concept, right? Mitch

  8. OK Neat Name: This tranny is basically a TH-375, or that's what the rebuild kit says. Similar inside to a Turbo-400 with a low/drive pernundal quadrant. As far as I know it's one of the cheepest and easiest trannys to rebuild. That's not the issue I would be worrying about. That 425 has 50 years under it's belt and even running great, that would scare the daylights outta me .Mitch

  9. OK Riviera People: I gotta chime in here. The builder of this yellow Riv is really teasing me with his skill set. I believe it's really to be respected. The car? The dough invested? The dog and pony drama around it?

    Heres' how my brain works. All the hours that went into this car could have jacked up at least 100 other First-Gen Rivs, including this one before the fact. Mitch

  10. OK Buick People: There is now a Facebook page the "1960 Buick Universe". It is about the 1960 Buick and no other year. If you are on the Facebook and have 1960 Buick anything to share please do so.

    Keep in mind that a 59 is too old and a 61 is too new. Just the 1960 Buick. See you there, Mitch.

    • Like 1
  11. OK Riviera People: From the number of Rivieras I own with the original license plates on them I'm going to guess the flat coarse thread screw with the nylon keeper on the rear and a flat medium thread screw/nut on the front.

    It does pose an interesting question. At age 62 my memory doesn't serve me very well from 1962-63 (I was 11 at the time)on the fine details of the First-Gen Riv. This does leave an important topic because the number of people assocoated with the original vehicles from that era is diminishing quickly. Mitch

  12. OK Mike: Here's an idea. Perhaps you could place a few "wanted" adds in some of the North Eastern local Buick Club chapter newsletters. This could get you to your audience and could even hook you up directly with a principal. Just an idea.

    I believe the majority of BCA people do not follow this forum and many who own 4867's...the type you want....might not even be on line. Mitch

  13. OK Riviera People: These things must be really hot for everyone to get excited at 4 grand. That would be almost the right car to do (65 is the one, duh) color and equipment but it is really a rough mama, although not as rough as some I have come across. I think that even doing it yourself it's a minimum of 5-6K just to get it so you could start it up and take it to the store.

    I'm going to guess that when this market cools off, and that is just a matter of time, there are going to be a slug of old cars like this on the market with owners waking up and wanting to bail only to find they are going to loose big time.

    Black plates. Again meaningless. The car still needs a big pile of money thrown at it. BTW, if the car is out of the CA DMV system and comes back no reg found the black plates gotta go unless....there is some registration or official CA document that shows the plates and vin match. Mitch

  14. OK DrP: Just out of curiosity, what was the source that led you to this car in San Leandro? I'm in Castro Valley and track Craig's list every day like a big dog. Had I have seen the listing I would been all over it like a June bug. Mitch

  15. OK Dave: Please read my blurb again and again. I "think" I know what I'm talking about. If you are looking for a First-Gen Riv that might be a great buy that is similar quality to this try. I believe it's worth a call. The mechanic who looked at the car you wanted to buy is not to be trusted. If he can't gap a fresh set of points and trace down why there's no spark.....even check top dead center I mean come on now!

    I think the only reason the owner of the car you committed to called you back is because you were his ONLY prospect because the dough he was asking way out of wack. I think you dodged at least a $3,000 bullet there. Mitch

    http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/4263614674.html

  16. OK Dave: I like the car. Two issues are pretty simple. It's an easy cosmetic restoration. It's unmolested, original and it isn't a rust bucket. The interior is also easy because the original authentic pieces are available. It has a custom interior, a/c and power windows so that part's also covered.

    The major problem? Everything is really expensive to do a nice job. Let's take the mechanical part. Let's say the engine will come to life after a brief hibernation. If you are going to use this car it is almost certain that it will need a rebuild sooner than later. A Nailhead rebuild is now pushing 6 grand after adding up all the tiny insignificant stuff like a carb rebuild, tune up parts, labor, etc. The interior? It's just money too. I can see at least $3,000 even with the Clark's kit. There's the trunk to also consider too. Paint? You have the very best start one could imagine. A quality paint job is 5 grand easy. Chrome? Pick a price.

    So you can see that even if you are a master technician and can do most of the work yourself shaping this baby up will be way north of $20K. 20K + 7.5K +27.5. I'm positive you can buy a fantastic one for at least half of that. I have been there and done this a few times....recently. I feel this is a great car to start with but the asking price is ridiculous. I love this car at $2,500, perhaps a bit more running good. Bottom line, it's your dough. Mitch

  17. OK Clams: Is this the one? http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/4303380141.html. That car needs to be previewed in the flesh. The seller needs to provide a clear title in his/her name. For 9K they better get off their duff and get a fresh legit title.

    This might be a legit GS but as all these old things go many if their engines have long played out and who knows what's in there. I like it complete with a happy title and vin tag for $2,500. Mitch

  18. OK Pete: I personally appreciate the passion you have for saving these old Buicks. Going out in the cold and all that driving not to mention what it took to remove many of the parts, load them....and unload them.....wait!!!....and store them, is certainly beyond the call of duty.

    Unfortunately many times the square peg is not going to see the square hole. I have 15 1960 Buick parts cars and another 6 First-gen Riv parts cars. My 21 year old son has a cush job and doesn't need to hustle. All his homies are in the similar situation. All good kids and none who needs to make a few extra bucks hustling. I am offered parts cars all the time too. I'm now retired and have turned the page on hustling anything. That's unfortunately how it is. Like I mentioned in previous posts on this topic it's not that easy.

    I know of a half-dozen several First-Gen Riv hustlers here on the West Coast and several others throughout the country. The logistics? They get you almost all the time. Perhaps there are enthusiasts overseas who have considered transporting these things for local redistribution in their areas.

    Finally. What is the difference between a dismantled First-Gen Riv and a cherry 1969 Camaro? I would much rather see the Riviera in person or in a picture than that Camaro! Mitch

  19. Definitely a "FrankenRiv" The door panels are '63, the emblems are tri-shields. The rear speaker has what appears to be the center cap for a wheel cover in it. Seats are from a '63, different panel stiching - '63 "biscuits" go all the way up; '64 has a long panel across the top. '64 trunk lid, '63 tail light lenses. Under the hood, it's all '64 a/c controls. No '63 vacuum tank. Wheel covers in back seat are for neither year. Just a parts car, unless you have a '64 parts car for all the wrong parts.

    Buick is NOT Chevrolet - no short cuts to get a car off the line; they had no "left over" '63 parts. They produced the 40,000 units they were limited to. They had plenty of down time to make tooling changes for '64. I'm guessing that some previous owner wanted leather interior for his '64 and pulling the seats and matching panels from a '63 was the easiest way to do this. A look at the data plate would give us even better clues. Like a stamped 64-4747 :-) or a VIN.

    Addendum: I went back to the ebay listing to look at the VIN. Here's what I found, copied and pasted.

    Vehicle Title: Rebuilt, Rebuildable & Reconstructed

    OK Ed: A few things here. First, I couldn't even drive this car with a vice grips and that might hurt it's value. Second, power vents are really rare w/ standard interiors. I wonder if the owners were cig smokers and wanted the p-veez. My question is, what is the difference between the 63 and 64 standard door panels? Mitch

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