lrlforfun
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Posts posted by lrlforfun
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On 11/25/2018 at 8:18 AM, Zimm63 said:
Not mine. Claims to have titles for both cars.
https://easternshore.craigslist.org/cto/d/2-buick-riviera/6753462801.html
OK Riviera People: I love these cars. Why? Because they are 64 Rivs. They're cheep and they are junk, the kinda junk I love. Makin' mud pies is right up my alley. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: If someone could get this for cheep....I'm guessin' 5-6 Grand they could nibble on it and have a decent looking car with out being buried. Blow it apart and media blast this thing and the cash register is gonna ring off the hook. Another overpriced heap in a sea of overpriced heaps. If the seller needed the dough it would have been gone a year and a half ago. Mitch
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OK Joe: Would be nice as your location. Why do I ask? I have 10 of them but i DO NOT ship. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: Most aren't aware of this but.....the custom options for 64 and 65 feature a much thicker vinyl than the standard. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: The higher the price the more ya wanna pick it apart. Price 'em on the money and they're gone in 72 hours. Wanna wait then ya might be able to get more....very little more. Now, if the seller totes the note then, name your price. There was a really good 64 on the ebay i was droolin' for sold for $9,900 a few months ago but mama says , NO MORE CARS". Mitch
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OK Pete: Shoot me a PM and I'll give you the skinny. Mitch
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OK Pete: I got one. We still friends? Mitch
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OK 65 GS: The door skins is the first obstacle. Back in the day the screws spun off with ease, Today? Anything but....so CAREFULLY remove the door shell and before re-installation make sure all the nuts and bolts are free as a bird. Also, make sure the T bolts don't spin. If you're careful you can peen the pockets without denting the outside. There are probably other methods others have tried successfully. Next? Make sure your fuzzies are not gonna scratch your glass. Removing that top stainless piece is a very tedious job and replacing it even more so.
The removal of the door glass is pretty straightforward. Clean all tracks and rollers. #000 Steel wool with some solvent works great. Clean and lube the regulators with your favorite product. Lithium grease is what I used. Check for bent and worn components while apart. Re-install the glass and adjust. It's pretty easy. If your bottom frame has a trailing arm get that going. If not forget about it as they're like wisdom teeth. The stops and adjustments give wiggle room. If you have the bottom frame the glass sets in don't mess with it. If you need to, change glass and frame....BE CAREFUL as the glass can shatter with the wrong pressure. Earlier GM''s had a metal rail that was prone to rust. Not the case with the Riv set-up.
The vent window assembly can be really tough. Remove and make sure the regulator is free, check to see if the backing plate is secured (that IS peened from the factory) and grease it up. if the backing plate is wobilly you can drill out the peened part and install sheet metal screws. it works great. Finally....the vent glass. The factory provided a thin ribbon around the perimeter of the glass where it goes into the channel. This often expands and the window will bind against the vertical post. Make sure it's closes freely. if the glass has separated from the ribbon and channel ya gotta remove the glass, clean out the chrome channel, get new ribbon and re-glue and install. That part takes skill, as a glass man has years of experience.
The back 1/4 windows need to be at a certain height (I think about half mast (but don't really remember) in order to come out and in easily. I believe the shop manual has some pertinent info on this. The top rail attached to the frame assembly is held in with Phillip screws. Pray they come out easy or it's a big pain. Not rocket science but ya gotta drill 'em out if they're stripped. Basically, just remember how they came out and re-install. There are several adjusting nuts attacked to the rails and they need to be adjusted as needed. When the assembly is out you can vacuum out and blow out with air all the debris from 50 years and if it's a warm day hitting it with some water pressure is also helpful.
As far as the date codes...I never cared about that stuff in my life but if it's important to you...go with it. It's a job but the results of having full tint are dramatic. Full tint takes even a 53 Cranbrook up about 100 notches. Mitch
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OK Dick: I have the almost identical twin to your 63. Burgundy with white custom leather, power windows, vents and a/c. it's straight, original paint and no exterior rot. The nearest I can figure is some gal walked into the showroom and just picked out the color combo and started checking almost every box there was. This combo would be the poster car for answering the question...."if you were to order a 63 Riv, what color and options would you choose"?
Oh, I must add that my car has no motor, no transmission or trunk floor and it needs everything you can think of including more than that. Mitch
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OK 65 VGS: I did a full tint swap on my green w/white standard interior 65. Lotta work for the first time. Those quarter windows? I've taken 'em in and out at least a dozen times and i'm still all thumbs. The trailing arms on the door glass? I seem to have acquired a small collection of broken ones. Mitch
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OK Chewbacca: You really can't go wrong with the oil/filter/Marvels combo. When I had the car lot I'd do all that PLUS....I'd put a couple of cans of Berrymans B-12 in the tank. The EFI? Sounds good. I don't know much about those units. Instant start (with electronic ignition) better mileage and performance, What's the cost? Personally, I'd just do the oil and carb thing and forget it. If that engine is old it's gonna detonate with too much poop. Rebuild? Yeah, I'd definitely consider it. I have re-built 3 425'z all .30 over and so far so good. It's just getting very expensive now. Mitch
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OK Rapom: Your describing a piston noise, very common in Nailheads and as long as you don't drive the crap out of it it might hold for another 10K miles and 10 years. The plug underneath the manifold? I've seen burn through it on some 2 barrel units but not on a 4 barrel. Removing the intake is fast, easy and will reveal everything in a nano second.
OK Pete: Risolone was formulated for cars.....for example, that had no oil filter and didn't use detergent oil. It is great for breaking up sludge but....it needs to be buffered or it could easily dredge up caca that could clog the oil pump screen. It could also wash out engine bearings.
My solution of 4 quarts of 30 detergent, a fresh filter and a quart of marvels with a tight carb is the best of both worlds. It also partially addresses the manifold making noise as it's a piece of cake to remove. Mitch
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OK Mike: This, or an identical twin like it has been spammed and misrepresented on many different Craig's Lists, e bay and who knows where else. When any car is put out there and marketed like this it's a cinch there's something ominous going on. Check this past Summer's posts on this topic from this forum and V-8Buick.com. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: If it ain't broke.....don't fix it. Clean oil, a filter and Marvels is by far the best solution. If you are able to, overhaul the carb and get it running excellent so hopefully not a lotta gas gets in the crankcase. If the engine explodes you can still get value for the carb plus there's a very good chance it could add to the driving enjoyment. Drop the pan and clean out the sludge? Well you are inviting a can of worms with an engraved invitation. These things are 55 years old. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: Better check the legitimacy of this dark green 65 Riv out. Mitch
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OK Off: Well, Grant and Dan's in Fremont is gone, Kieth's Transmission in Castro Valley was sold and is not doing old school. Dublin? Shucks purchased Kieth's. I guess you need to call around. I could also use someone locally to me. Sorry i didn't have a referral. Mitch
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OK Tom: Let me clarify. The 60 tank is identical except for the filler neck angle. The length of the filler neck on a 4829 and 4839 is a few inches longer. I do NOT have any anything on re-pop tanks, this is why I'm excited. I probably could sell a hundred if they were available at a reasonable price. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: Plus the juice. Add, what 15% buyer's fee. Mitch
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OK Greg: Please tell the folks reproducing the First-Gen Riviera tank that a 1960 Buick has the IDENTICAL tank. Just the angle of the filler neck is a little different. it would really be great to see them offered. I recently paid $300 for a tank clean-out and epoxy coat. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: I recent purchased a gentleman's entire stash of Buick parts. Several brake drums were in the parts pile. My question.......
Is the 65 Riviera, Wildcat and Electra front drum a 1 year only? It has the 45 fins and the small hub. Did Buick use the 45 fin front drum on 66 and newer? Thanks, Mitch
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OK Charlie: What happened to the top? Mitch
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OK Alex: Be careful. Many chrome shops do exchanges and the bumpers are tweeked and don't quite fit right. If your bumpers fit nicely insist on re-plating and knocking the dings out of THEM rather than exchange. Mitch
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OK Riviera People: I have had several with similar symptoms. This is NOT a scientific diagnosis and that's what's needed on your unit. In my cases both cars had stuck valve bodies. Mitch
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OK Buick people: Except for the Riviera and Invicta Custom this is one of Buicks sharpest interiors! Mitch
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OPGI 63-65 Package Tray - Link to V8Buick.com Post
in Buick Riviera
Posted
OK Riviera People: The A Body folks must be under some kinda spell when it comes to the OPGI outfit.
The good? They're nice as pie over the phone. Their catalog cover is sexier than most men's magazines. I really hate a tease though.
The bad? They don't know their product. Their products stink. Their products are grossly overpriced.
STAY AWAY, Mitch