WillBilly53

eh, ho-hum. today has been SUCH a monday. i emailed them and told them my problem. they did respond, but said that if mine wasn't a convert/coupe then i'd have to send my old lines in. guess what? it's not a convert/coupe and i don't have the old lines. when i ordered them i thought it meant convert and/or coupe. and i thought a 2 door hardtop was considered a coupe so i went ahead and ordered them. so now i'm gonna have to ask for a refund...

i figured it wouldn't rust and break or crack?

thanks ron and mr.solutions. i was wondering about the storing in a fridge thing - condensation and all. i wonder why they put that in the instructions? maybe it's meant for LONG term storage? anyways, i had a great success with application on the backside of my dash. i also did the grille ( i took the stainless teeth off) and then i topcoated with a flat black - should set those teeth off real well when i polish them up and install them! one thing i got the the same pin bubble affect on the glove box door (i did it separate from the dash) so i'll do it over, but the back of the dash looks great, i must say.

thanks oldtank and skyking. will they accept a return even if it's been about a year? i ordered them LAST august, before i realized what all i needed/wanted to do before i installed them. i'm just now getting around to installing them and found this out. i'm getting the engine and trans cooler lines from inline tube. they have the fuel and brake lines for my car. should i try and return the ones to classic and go with inline or am i screwed for a refund? and i don't have the original lines from the car... lordy, lordy...

is there a tool for straightening out incorrectly bent stainless steel fuel and brake lines? i'm having to correct some pre-made lines i got from classictube. thanks!

are you supposed to wash the metal ready off with water and let the piece get bone dry before you apply POR-15? the directions say to, but after i wash it off and then let it get dry i see areas of surface rust forming on the good metal. what gives?

i got a brand new gas tank sending unit from bob's and was wondering if i should dip in the gas tank sealer before i install it. what do you all think? thanks!

excellent. thank you. how long does it take, usually?

has anyone ever ordered brake and fuel lines from classictube.com? i ordered a set about a year ago for my '53 Super 2DR. i have just now gotten around to installing them. They don't seem to fit "exactly" right. does anybody have a schematic or know where i can get one. or any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

How do you properly charge a 12v Battery? i've been doing a lot of tests for my radio and other instruments lately. i did a hydrometer test today and none of the balls are floating. i want to make sure i have a good charge on it before i do any other tests. Thanks!

well i tested it out. i get nothing when i turn it on. and i tested the battery, it is good. i did however run speaker wire from my garage radio to the speaker in the sonomatic and it works fine! so now i'm on to searching for tubes. where do i get the correct tubes? i can find the 2 bigger tubes (12v6GT) but i have a little bit of trouble finding the 4 smaller ones. i think they are 309's but not sure cause the print indicating the type is rubbed off a lot on every tube. any help=much appreciation! thanks

OH MAN! what an excellent reply! thank you so much! i will let you know how it goes. tommorrow i will purchase the battery and fuse holder tommorrow!

i think i'm just gonna use some cardboard. LOL. i'm gonna pass on the rubber. I really think i'm gonna get the B-Quiet for the doors, floors and trunk. I'll purchase the hood insulation from Bob's Thanks for all the info everybody!

i got a set for both ends of the bar for my '53 at classicbuicks.com $22 http://www.classicbuicks.com/rearaxle.htm

Anybody know where i can get one of these? it's for a '53 Super. I've looked everywhere around here. The catch is it's a left hand thread. it's the left hand side rear coil spring bolt (bottom) i had to cut mine off to get the spring and bracket off. wouldn't you believe the one bolt i cut off of the whole damn car is one i can't find! anybody have one or know where i can get one? also which master body and chassis parts catalog do i need to get? I want one that will cover years after '53 cause i know GM used some of the same parts after '53. I purchased a reprint of the Master '40-67 and i can't find anything covering my year! it was mostly 62 - 67. Thanks!

what about eastwood's chassis black on wheels?

it is indeed 12 volts. '53 was the year they switched. so should i hook up a 12 volt adapter to the clock and leave it for a while so it will wind? i can get the clock's light to come on but that's all. and there's only one wire coming out of the radio with a fuse. is it positive and ground? i wish i was better at electronics...

What's some good stuff to use for floors, inside doors, under the hood, etc. i've heard of B-Quiet. which seemed really cool. JC Whitney has some stuff. and so Does Eastwood. What have you all had success with? also. what's the proper way to treat the underside of the hood. do i paint it? then use some insulation? thanks in advance!

is there away i can test the radio? as some of you know the dash and components are completely removed and the radio and clock are sitting in my bedroom. i've got a volt meter, but was wondering if i could hook it up to a 12 volt battery to get power to test it? this post may indeed go up there with one of my first posts "hole in gas tank"

LOL, hey awbe! go here for some new but old pics. (winter 2003) My '53 Buick Resto Page this is not really the site. it's just some notes and pics i've put down to start to layout my website for her. well i'm gonna get the damn POR 15. i'll give it a shot. so the rust preventive paint by POR 15 can go over rusted metal as well as bare?

damn. well i'm glad you told me before i did anything. i was just about to shoot some on some pieces i sandblasted yesterday. (there were some crevices and areas i couldn't get down to bare metal) looks like i'll be purchasing POR-15. thanks Ron for the info!

Can you shoot this stuff onto bare metal? also is All-Metal supposed to be "rock-hard" when it sets/dries completely? or is it more like bondo? thanks!

thank you, 53and61! btw i just patched the dash up exactly like said. totally awesome! that All-Metal is "da bomb" as the kids would say. this dash is gonna kick major butt!

what's the best way to go about this? i've got some rust between the two pieces of metal. also behind the trunk emblem is a big rust through mess. i was thinking of cutting the whole inside piece out. getting rid of the rust, repairing the area behind the emblem then welding the two back together. or is this a bad idea? any suggestions on this?

thanks for the reply and info NTX (and skyking)! i did some chemical stripping today on one of the fenders. boy did that go fast. i started out doing it with the 3M stripping wheel it took me about 15 minutes of conitinuous manual stripping to get about a 16" area down to bare metal. Laid down a huge tarp outside, i then got a few cans of aircraft remover, put on the my respirator and goggles spray the whole fender. waited about 10-15 minutes for the spray to blister the paint. took my plastic scrapper and it came off like a charm.