Shakadula

Any luck?

Please send pics and #'s to shakadula@aol.com. Thanks

Thanks CarbKing. Might just be my answer. I'll let you know.

I need a new carb for my GS and can't find a Rochester anywhere. Is there a Holley or Edelbrock that will allow me to still use my Star Wars air cleaner?

Need to close this thread. I pulled the motor (again) and found the oil pickup tube was clogged with stinkbugs. Seems I left the tube laying on the garage floor for months and these WV critters like small, dark places. Rookie mistake not blowing it out. Stupid really. Thanks to all for your help.

Joe, you are correct in that the pump in in the timing cover and I have never tapped alum so maybe I leave this to a pro. Bhigdog, good to know about the heli stuff for future reference. Thanks all.

Great step by step instructions. Especially on the switch. My wipers just stopped working and just guess how I found out? 80 miles from home in a 3 day rain storm. The wife was a trooper and said nothing.

Thanks Bob. I will research the Heli Core thing. Right now I don't know if I should smoke it, drink it or dance with it!

Hi Everyone, I recently installed a new fuel pump in my GS and the right bolt hole in the block is stripped. I can get a little traction but can't torque to spec. Anyone ever used Loctite thread repair with any luck? I have a strong gas smell and although I can't see a leak, I suspect I have one at the fuel pump. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated as I want to drive my car without fear. Thanks

Same thing happened to my 45 year old car on the power steering pulley. Marvin Shives hooked me up with a replacement. I don't know if Marvin would have 53 pulley but might be worth a call 301 842 2331

Well I just searched the forum and several references to my question are there and it appears I should have looked in my Fisher body manual. Looks like hydraulic fluid is fine to use. Still appreciate suggestions though.

Hi all, My convertible top pump needs fluid and a friend of mine, that I affectionally refer to as a 1967 Buick GS 400 bigot, suggested hydraulic jack fluid. I can't find any reference to fluid in my shop manual. So, do I use the jack fluid or brake fluid or trans fluid. Thanks in advance for your help. BTW, I have a 1967 Buick GS 400.

No instructions. All it stated was to use the white spring as a replacement as there were several springs provided. I also checked the manual and that didn't state anything about the valve. I might give that a try first since it is a 5 minute job.

Just had another thought.......I replaced the spring and valve in the oil pump cover. The valve had a hole through it. Does that hole have to face the oil pump cover? I just installed it not thinking about the how the valve should face.

You're right about the gasket only fitting one way as there are 2 location pivot points. You can't really screw that up. I'll try the vasaline again as can't stand the thought of removing that oil pan to check that pump gasket but I may have to do it if this doesn't work. I will also check timing cover for clearance to the block. Maybe I have an air leak there. I am tired of working on what should be simple issues and not getting anywhere. Check my wiring harness posts. I am so mechnically declined! Thanks for your help!

"Any new items installed that had a cover that is over a oil passage not removed before installation?" Not following......I feel like even if I did reverse the timing cover gasket and cover a oil passage hole I would still get some kind of pressure to the gauge. Don't you think?

AVG. I hooked up a oil pressure guage in the engine compartment so I could see while I was priming. Thanks,.

Okay. 2 out of 2 responses stating the same thing. I could have screwed it up! Thanks.

:(I think I really messed up. I pulled the motor and replaced all gaskets and seals. Put the motor back in and tried to prime the oil pump and now I have no oil pressure. I used vaseline too to pack the pump. Replaced the oil pump gears, spring and valve and still no deal. To prime I am using the GM tool in a drill to spin the pump. I also put the distributor in and turned the motor over for 10 seconds and still nothing. Is it possible to put the oil pump pickup tube in backwards where it is not in the oil. I don't think so cause I don't think I could get the oil pan back on. Does the hole in the valve need to be in a certain location? I am at a loss!

Well I want to close this out since I forgot to in 2010. I never did figure out the problem. So I ordered a new wiring harness. Once installed everything worked fine. I believe (and what I didn't state before cause it didn't register) I caused the problem myself when I installed a 1000 watt amp and subwoofer 2 weeks prior. I only went on short trips of a hour or so and no issues after that install. The day the car died I was out for about 3 or 4 hours. I think I cooked my wiring somewhere on the engine harness. I then disconnected the amp and all is well. After some investigating, I found that my ALT just could not keep up with the load. During the troubleshooting process I replaced the Batt, Alt, Solenoid, relay maybe more but now I can't remember. Anyway, being at a loss, I ordered the new engine wiring harness and all is well and I even feel better with the new harness. Thanks again everyone for your help. And thank you for this forum.......I would be lost without it.

Thanks. What I am hearing is that the tangs should be on opposite sides.

I have my motor pulled and am replacing all gaskets and seals. When I removed the crank, I failed to notice how the rod cap bearings were fitted. Meaning, there is something called the tang and I don't know if I should match the top and bottom bearing tangs together or should the tangs be on opposite sides? Hope this makes sense. I have had 2 different people tell ne two differenc things. Thanks.

Thanks everyone. I'm sure the POS battery cable is good as I put a test light on the solenoid and it lit up. However, I didn't check the Neg. I'll do that tonight. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the connection at the firewall and check that. I do have a nasty oil leak that is spitting all over my motor so I imagine it could have infiltrated my harness. Thank you again for the suggestions. I'll follow up once I figure this thing out.

Hi all, Out crusing one Sunday afternoon and the car went dead. Made 3 stops that day and on the last one the car would not start. The Gen light was on so I got under the car and moved the solenoid wires around a bit. Got back in the car and now no gen light, no headlights, no interior lights. Towed the car home. It's been 2 weeks and I am at a loss. This can't be that tough. Replaced the solenoid and had the starter and battery tested and they are fine. Battery cables are good. No fusible links from the solenoid ( I guess the previous owner removed them). Any thoughts? Would a bad ignition switch cause this (remember no headlights) or Neutral Saftey switch. I'm not good with a multi-meter but willing to learn. Also, I don't know the sequence of troubleshooting. Meaning, should I have power from the solenoid terminal (not bat) with the ignition key off? I am on the verge of having it towed to a garage. Thanks.

Just a quick thanks to everyone that helped me get through this job. Now on to the front. And yes I will replace the hoses and bearings.