Shakadula

Thanks all. Took pictures and followed all advice except to not do it myself. The 2nd reason for owning this car is to work on it and learn. Just trying to keep the mind sharpened. "remove the cover from the master cylinder." key point. Had to re-read this before I could get the shoes back in place. Again, Thanks. I replaced the wheel cyl since I didn't know how old they were. My biggest issue was the parking brake. Basically had to look at the other wheel to figure that out because it fell out of place before I could get a picture. First wheel took forever. Second one less than an hour. Not counting bleeding the brakes.

I have a 67 GS 400 with drum brakes/Shoes in the rear. I have never changed out brakes before. Anyone got pictures and/or step by step instructions for a dummy? The Service Manual assumes I know what I'm doing.

I have a 67 GS 400 with drum brakes in the rear. I have never changed out brakes before. Anyone got pictures and/or step by step instructions for a dummy? The Service Manual assumes I know what I'm doing.

This thing seems to be fused. I've hammered, WD-40d and even used a putty knife to break this thing off of the timing cover. It leaks so bad that it is spitting oil down the side of my car. Any ideas?

Thanks all. I will try the synthetic blend oil for a few oil changes, then go to all synthetic again.

Boy am I glad to see your comment about the kits. I am currently looking for front disc brakes as well and didn't consider anything but a kit. Thanks.

Can I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in my GS 400 with rope seals. I just had the motor rebuild and didn't have any leaks for about 1000 miles and after changing the oil to Mobil 1, I have a slight leak that appears to be coming from the rear seal. I'll know for sure whan I change back to regular 10/W30 but am looking for your experience. I've heard it both ways. Synthetic oil is a bad idea and it doesn't matter. Please help.

Something had it blocked. Dropped the oil pan (what a pain) and got in there and cleaned it out. Blew some air in the port, put it all back together and now it works. Geeezzzzz!

Understood. Thank you.

Skyking mentioned Liquid Ebony for black paint. I have been looking for this product for years and can't find it. I even approached a local body shop and they couldn't find it in any catalogs.

When you say "known high pressure leak" what do you mean? I don't have any leaks and I think the pressure is fine. I just can't monitor it.

Thanks for the reply. I first removed the tube from the gauge and started the car and had no oil there. At that point I removed the fitting and the port was dry. I spoke to the owner (he also rebuilt the motor) and he thinks I have the fitting in the wrong hole. He said he brought the motor up to pressure. Wonder. Anyway, I don't have the fitting in the "wrong hole". I think there is something blocking that port so that is why I was asking if I can stick something in there without damaging something. Or can I just blow some air in the port?

The guys at Performance seemed to do a prety good job. My only complaint is that they painted the engine the wrong color and didn't cover the carb port or the distributor port so I had quite a bit of cleaning to do. So far 1500 miles and no leaks.

Just had my 400 rebuilt. I installed a mechancial oil pressure guage and am not getting any reading. Pressure seems fine. Car runs fine. I removed the oil fitting from the block and started the car. No oil came out of where the sending unit or fitting screws into the block. Any ideas? Can this port get blocked? Can I insert a coat hanger to maybe open it up.

I need to install new carpet this spring but I plan to coat the floor pans first with POR15 or the Eastwood product (rust encapsolator). Anyone know how the 3M spray will work on either of these products?

Try Wynn Buick/Pontiac in Cartersville, Ga. About 1 hour from Atlanta. I bought a 67 GS from one of the owners with the finest paint I have ever seen. However, just let them do the paint. Not the body work. Body work was poor on one fender. Get everything in writing cause they are first a car dealership so there are no ethics. Good luck.

THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE. As a matter of fact, the guy at Performance did state that Buicks zre different and he has rebuilt numerous Buick motors. I will however check into the two shops you mentioned since I have not spoken to anyone that has used Performance Unlimited and I would really rather deal with someone that has a reference. Thanks again,

I've decided to pull my 400 and send it to Performance Unlimited in Ocean NJ for a top and bottom end rebuild. My questions are: 1. Anyone have experience with Performance Unlimited? 2. Suggestions on changes to the stock rebuild. So far the only change I am doing is eliminating the rope seals so I can use synthtic motor oil. 3. I am concerned about gas milage so what else can I do? Thanks a bunch for any information.

P-S-T parts were perfect. Everything fit just right. The springs are another thing. Hemstreet sent Skylark springs and the car was sitting on the ground after I installed them. I had to pay shipping to send the springs back and realized that Hemstreet didn't know the difference between a GS and A skylark. I still have to install the rear springs cause George Henstreet said install them and see how they look. This guy is too much. I should have used Year One.

Found it. The small black wire that grounds to the front fender from the battery was at fault. Cleaned the wire and all is well. Thanks,all. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I am about to rebuild my 400 motor cause the crank is shot. This will be my first rebuild and I will need parts that fit. Any suggestions on where I should buy. TA Performance has a complete rebuild kit (top and Bottom ends) but that is about the only vendor I could find. From a prior post I know I need to find a good machine shop but in West Va, that'll be tough! Thanks,

Check out this link: http://www.atlantabuick.com/Restoration.htm#Grille%20Repair

Thanks. I'll check them again tonight.

Yeah I check everything I can think of. I started the car and then disconnected the positive battery cable and the car died. New alternator I guess. I think that I have two issues. BAd alternator and I suppose the fusable links. Still need help with the links. Anyone?

Driving 100 miles from home on Saturday and the head-lights, tail-lights, interior lights go out and the gas gauge reads empty and convt top won't go up. Wipers are dead too. Had a hell of a storm Saturday afternoon. Anyway, I replaced the voltage regulator. Didn't work. I heard something about fusable links at the starter. I have never seen a fusable link but understand it is really a wire that is higher in guage than the main wires going to the starter. I am having a hard time exposing these wires so I can repair with a splice. Do I have to remove the starter motor? Any tips if my problem is not the fusable link? Also, the car starts and runs fine although all of the lights are out except for the OIL and GEN light. They stay on. They even come on when the car is off and I open the door. This is nuts. Thanks,