Shakadula

Yes it uses. Carriage bolts with a rounded head and is squared off just under the head before the threads. I installed new bolts and tightened them thoroughly. After tightening, I double checked the that the other strap ends were still seated in the rectangular slots. The tank seems to be solid so I am working on a fail safe option in case of another failure. I just don’t like or trust the hook in design of those straps with a 57 year old car.

Well I worked on the tank today for 3 hours and learned the following: the bolts would not stay seated in the slot while tightening so I ran a washer and a nut all the way up to insure the bolt stayed seated. Then put the strap on with another nut. my deep socket was not deep enough so I suspect that even though I thought the nut was tight; it was not. Thank you all for your input. I’m gonna let the car sit overnight and check it again in the morning to make sure I didn’t miss anything.

Bought new gas tank straps and installed them back in May 2024. My gas tank dropped yesterday while pulling into a gas station. Fortunately, I was able to get into a parking spot, put 2 ratchet straps on the tank to hold it up in place and limped home 3 miles. Lucky, lucky, lucky. Now to figure out why the failure. 1. Maybe the straps stretched during the month of use and the bolts at the rear of the car slid out. I should have gone back and checked the straps after a few drives. New straps were correct length and from OPGI so I don’t believe it was a strap failure unless they did stretch. 2. Maybe I didn’t tighten the bolts enough when I installed the new straps. 3. I did have a hard time with one hanging bolt as it would not stay in place without me holding it in place to attach the strap. So what I need help with is: 1. General thoughts overall 2. Fail safe for the tank in case of another failure. 3. Anyone weld those strap bolts to the frame permanently and is it worth doing that? 4. One thought I had on the hanging bolt that would not stay in place was to use JB Weld to create a lip where the bolt slides into the slot on the frame. This is assuming I didn’t tighten the bolt enough and it moved out of the slot. I know this is long but I have to get this fixed for good as I may not be so lucky the next time. thanks.

John D1956: me too but apparently not. I have checked several sources ( Chevelle guys and my friend who I affectionately refer to as a Buick bigot because “they stopped making cars after 1967” when he bought his first GS). The tank might be the same but the filler neck is different. I did find a radiator shop about an hour away that said they could perform the welding job but that will be my last resort. thanks for the reply.

Looking for a Fuel tank with filler neck for a 67 GS400 Convertible. Found other 67 A-Body tanks but not Buick. People are telling me to cut the neck off of the old one and weld it onto a new tank without the filler neck (found that tank on RockAuto). This can’t be right. Or can it. I would really prefer a new tank with the filler neck already installed. Thought or suggestions on how I might proceed. Maybe a workaround on getting something to work on the tank that does not have the filler neck. Thanks.

Differential gears are okay. Bad axle bearings. In the process of replacing those.

Thanks NTX. I did take out the old fluid and replaced it as well as added a lucas stop leak. I am not a fan of any kind of stop leak product but I needed another year out of this but it ain't gonna happen. I will take a shot at a rebuild this winter when the car is on jack stands. I have a boatload of work to do on this car. Brakes don't work well. New wheel cylinders and rubber brake lines and they still don't work right. I have antifreeze in my oil. Got a new timing cover to fix that issue. My engine vacuum is 12 but steady. I guess I have a leak somewhere. And something is funky with my differential gears. Slipping I think. So thanks for your help on the power steering issue.

Okay it is not really the pump but the gear housing. No leaks in the hoses. Sorry. Didn't think about the difference between the pump and the gearbox.

Anyone have thoughts on rebuilding vs buy new/remanufactured PS pump. I should state that while i maintain my car, I have never rebuilt a PS pump. If it is anything like a transmission I don't want to touch it. Thanks.

Don't forget to rent the installer tool as well. Don't bang it on. Don't forget the washer or lose it. I have holes in my hb so i just put a screwdriver or centering tool through the hole to hold the hb in place and then use the breaker bar. Good luck.

Don't know if this makes sense but I switched to syn oil and my rope seals leaked like crazy. These new rope seals are not like the seals of old. Anyway I put the suggested oil back and and the seals still leaked. It wasn't until i replaced the new rope seals with newer rope seals did the leaks stop. And I do mean front and rear seals. So I blame the rope seals for not being able to use syn oil. An observation and not based on any facts.

Rivnut, thanks for the pictures. I have a 67 Gs400 with a/c and need to replace my vacuum actuator control on the heater - a/c box but didn't know what look for inside the box. Now I know thanks to your pictures. My gs manual states to take off the front passenger fender to remove the bolts from the box. I think this is nuts but thought i would check with some of you all before i undertake that task. I just see lining up my fenders as a no win for me. They are straight as an arrow now and i don't want to mess it up. Can i undo the top bolts, maybe loosen up the bottom bolts and try to insert the actuator / bolts in the opening at the top? Thoughts?

Thanks everyone. I agree it would be best to just replace it. I was looking for the cheap way out so i will try the epoxy with a sealent or JB weld as I have both. If that doesn't work then I will just freeze cause I need a $500 timing cover. Mine is a bit warped and I don't know how long it will last. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.

I just had a crazy idea. How about a gasket maker like permatex?. It is working great on my timing cover. Thoughts?

Hi all, I broke the vacuum valve on my heater assembly box in the engine bay. Broke right in half when I smacked it with the exhaust manifold when I put the engine back in the car. My question is can I glue or weld this unit to be airtight so I can once again operate my heater? All suggestions are appreciated. I have attached two pictures illustrating the 2 halves. Thanks