KAD36
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Posts posted by KAD36
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Steele was most accurate fit for the “around the door” and vent window seals for my application, although I have not glued mine on yet until I paint the door jambs but noted that compared them to a less expensive competitor, and returned it. Wondering about what glue to use myself so thanks for bringing up the topic
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Great article thanks for posting! Helps explain why mine always in a state of almost done. With the exception of the “year of the blown motors” it’s been registered and on the road since 83.
It’s almost done. 🤣
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On 12/6/2022 at 7:19 PM, Fr. Buick said:
Folks, this is a great product!
+1. Makes car fun and easy to drive accelerating through the curve off exit ramps. Next to radials best, easiest and most effective driving upgrade I ever made!!
Nice to see you back Brad - hope all is well!
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Wow - great job picking up on that nuance and knowing your car! If you ever want to advance your skills further you’re welcome to take a ride in mine with the radio turned down. 😜. It will help me procrastinate bodywork.
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Looks fantastic! Something to be really proud of. What’s next….. before the sewing machine cools off?
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I did the first few years but don’t get asked any more. But have also had the same agent for 30 years. There are more cars than drivers in the house which was the criteria. They offered it to me. The Trusty Rusty Tahoe is the grocery getter (w 290K miles on the clock) and the snow blaster, both it and the Buick are reduced mileage. The F150 and Altima are the highway runners. It’s not as low cost as historical insurance but it helps.
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8 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Likely replaced with a electric pump remotely located where the former heater box was
Well then that’s just a dealbreaker for me, even if I could wash the windshield from the kitchen with an app in one hand and a beer in the other 😂
Incredible workmanship - holy cow. Just watched the video third time.
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Thank you for the great write up and lessons learned. Will be a big help for anyone who follows.
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Where’s the glass Trico bottle with the vacuum washer?
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Went from L 78-15 2.75” WW bias ply to the 225/75 R15 2.75 WW. Solved the rubbing inner fenders & tie rod ends on inner tire wall during cornering problem. Not sure what original WW width was but been happy with smaller diameter tire and the whitewall size looks similar in perspective to period photos.
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Regarding insurance my car is not registered as an antique or historical and has regular insurance with a mileage cap I’ll be unlikely to hit unless I go to the west coast and back.
I used to put 10-12000 miles a year on my car in the early 80s as it was all I had and drove it year round - rain or shine or snow. In winter I think I had studded Firestone Town and Country’s, or maybe Dunlops - they were the big zig zag Firestone type tread, +2 80 lb bags of water softener salt in the trunk and a full tank of gas and that thing was like a D-9 dozer in the snow. I never collected on the “Firestone will pay the tow” guarantee, but always thought it a cool jingle.
In recent years experiencing the scarcity and cost of replacement parts for a large series 2dr hardtop if an oops should happen, plus it’s “family heirloom” status, has admittedly caused me to drive it somewhat less often. However when it’s on the road doing its thing, its not driven like an old car. About all I do is adjust speed or route to keep it in wide open traffic and not let the gazers or gawkers keep a swerving pace alongside it (quit watching the car and watch where you’re goin) and leave triple the space between myself and the other guy. Probably same for many of us.
It always feels good looking out over that big steering wheel while keeping up with 70+ mph interstate traffic. 👍
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49 minutes ago, EmTee said:
at 94 doesn't he deserve a 4th ventiport?!?
Doing that well he should have 5!
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14 hours ago, joseph demeyer said:
This is turning into a rather interesting technical discussion but I am not willing to compromise the original engine configuration of my black beauty for the sake of experimentation. Instead of Klotz (not with an s..) oil, has anyone experience with NonSmokeOil (synthetic) ?
I sounds like there isn’t any level of modifications that would satisfy reducing the blow by while preserving the importance of keeping the engines originality/integrity?
No experience here with synthetics.
FWIW none of the over the counter stop smoke additives ever worked for me and being on a low hobby budget many were tried. Adding a temporary vent path and re-burning fumes or rebuilding and replacing all equally worn parts with a full rebuild worked for me. Same experience as EmTee with a valve job only fixed other things but not that..
Interested in what you decide and how it works.
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12 hours ago, Machine Gun said:
as the shroud can accommodate a fan 2" larger
Likewise. My stock fan was 17 and what fit in the shroud was a 19 ish while still giving ~1/4 inch clearance which has proven plenty IMHO. All that had to be done was shift the shroud down ever so slightly to better center it around the fan. The shroud bolt heads actually cover the elongated mounting holes.
The only time the fan rubs the shroud is during a full throttle launch when that deceptive little 322 twists the frame and crimps the body panels.
HA! That trail of dynaflow fluid and broken parts heading in the direction of the nearest BBQ joint is mine….🤣🤣🤣
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When adding AC to my car, there were a couple of experiments on fans and airflow that old tank and I did.. BLUF answer to keep the car coolest at hot idle was (starting with most effective) 1) 6 blade mechanical aftermarket fan 2) HD clutch fan with larger than stock diameter 5 blade fan from 79 Olds 3) bump the idle up to about 650-675 in D. 4) advance base timing about 2-3 deg.
2-4 are what I’m currently running with no issues. My car had similar thermal issues even before the AC, creeping up until it buried the needle on H at idle in D after a highway run, then stuck in traffic on a 95 deg day. N on my gauge is about 200, H is about 225-230. Maybe this is how it was supposed to work back in the day and I had put up with it for many years until I figured enough is enough - plus some cooling margin was required to be built in for adding the AC. The radiator is HD (stock replacement) 3 row.
Might add another step, although more investment, is an aluminum radiator; usnavystgc had good results putting one in his 56.I know yours is different than a 55 but consider the above data points if you want to explore options. I briefly considered electric fans but didn’t want to upgrade the stock electrical system to handle the extra load of the AC plus engine fan. Good luck, interested in what you decide.
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I had rigged one up for my 55 several years ago, ran it for a few seasons and it definitely “curbed” the issue and kept the engine bay cleaner. It wasn’t optimal but it worked. Before that, I used to just keep an old sock over the breather on the oil filler to try to keep the oily vapors from blowing back over the engine and prevent it from collecting dirt.
Finally, made the headfirst dive into that expensive option and *woo hoo* no more junk coming out of the breather tube….🤣
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With Watkins Glen under your belt….time to start practicing wheelies.
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Wow…..bit more than a chipped tooth huh - thanks for all the pics.
BTW - seeing those cobwebs in the brakes and the wire holding the exhaust brings back nightmares 🙂
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Thanks for following up with the solution, that’s always helpful; do you carry a spare? Experienced a run of bad “new” ones in rapid succession about a year ago - keep a watch out….
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My guess is on the gasket at the flange at the end of the power cylinder. Has like 4 bolts going through it at end of cylinder bore, going off memory….
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Yes that’s the ballast resistor, it will get hot, hence why it is housed in ceramic, especially noticeable if you leave key on with engine not running.
Smart to plug the vac source for now, the vac circuit shown in the picture needs work. Check sources provided by 56Buick after you get it running. Car pics?. Good luck.
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X2 Condenser. And how is the resistance across the points? Another idea is to check the voltage at the yellow wire at both the junction block and coil + to ground when cranking. It should be pretty close to batteries voltage - if it’s a few volts less it would suggest a poor current carrying connection at the starter solenoid path (which is used to bypass the ballast on startup) or at junction block.
The fact the rotor resistance made a difference in starting when it should be negligible makes it seem like whatever is causing the degradation is unique to starting circuit or it’s not enough to make it fail when the rotor resistance was effectively removed with the jumper you made. The coil swap will tell us all something for sure.
After finding the degrading component weakening the spark, if you keep both resistor plugs and resistor wires, and get a “new” rotor that has less than an ohm resistance, you’ve still got over 20K ohms or 2x the spec on the secondary circuit.
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Yep looks all too familiar 👍. Is there enough solder wetting on that wire? Maybe it’s the picture angle….When does the column go back in the car?
Keep up the good work!
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2 hours ago, old-tank said:
Starter stuck? Pull it to be sure there are no issues.
Maybe not retracting, or a chipped or damaged tooth locking it up on the flywheel or starter gear? Starter is easiest to pull to isolate. Then you’re into the engine. Take your pick what to pull next.. Timing cover, heads, pan.
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Rear coil springs.
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Coil Spring Specialties in St Mary’s KS on all 4 corners of mine for 20 years.. Will replicate factory springs or give you something custom if you’d like. Ride height is perfect, happy with results. Good luck in your decision.