KAD36
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Posts posted by KAD36
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Thinking out loud …if everything else remained equal to before you put the 44s in, or if the plug temperature change doesn’t result in anything remarkable, and you trust the gas then we are likely into checking the advance mechanisms as well as compression as discussed; being an original engine, some carbon may have raised the compression, but my thought would’ve been retarding timing would have gotten you under that threshold. Huh. Interesting…..
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10 hours ago, old-tank said:
the heat range may be too hot for the modern volatile ethanol laced fuel we have.
Those are my thoughts as well. When I used to run the AC plugs in it many years ago the local NAPA back in my hometown said the updated plug spec for the 322 was an R43. I don’t know why the specs switched to a colder plug, noted that on some vette and tri five sites, but I ran either those or Bosch #6 for years until Old Tank told me to try the Autolite 85s and have never looked back since.
Out of curiosity I looked up a champion plug and came to an “J6” heat range which is colder than the “J12” taken out. Wondering how much that has contributed to the pinging at 2.5deg base timing? Will be interested to see what happens. Thanks for the update JD.-
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They “look” perfectly serviceable and gappable, electrodes look like they are still fairly flat and crisp corners. In my frugal college tuition years mine were run down to nubs. Not recommending that as a badge of honor btw. Carry a few. Have never had the porcelain crack while running but stranger things have happened. Curious if throttle response and/or mpg changes for you.
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Check the idle speed. Higher idle speed yields more vacuum.
The 16 inches is specified in the 56 product service bulletin at 450 idle. The publication notes that this is lower than previous years due to “engine design”, most likely the camshaft. It also tends to have a slight jitter FWIW.
Courtesy of Hometown Buick:
Runs good, keep driving it. Right behind you on the bushings, original parts should be some fun.
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Nice job. Wouldn’t have expected the radiator hose to require attention. Thanks for the follow up letting us know what worked.
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Sweet Biscuits EmTee 🤣🤣🤣
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6 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Works during the day but not at night? Sheesh!
Sweet Biscuits indeed. That’s a good one….😎🤣
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7 hours ago, Rusty Heaps said:
Ask me how I know.
Yep. Recall starting the car once after an oil change and thinking now isn’t that odd there is no oil pressure. Guess where it went…
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5 hours ago, Build4#2 said:
I got my mounts from Bob's hopefully no problems.
Cool..we can see who made ‘em right.
Something else came to mind - if my understanding of the first post is that the transmission to engine bolts are loose it might put more strain on the flywheel to torque converter connection when you lift the engine which I believe is only 3 bolts. It might be better to keep the engine fastened tight to the transmission and loosen the bolts at the thrust pad and rear trans mount. That would also avoid pressure on the linkage for the switch pitch at the driver cylinder head down to the pitch actuating rod at the high accumulator - would keep it all in alignment. Just thinking out loud. Have a look and see what you think,
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Have only done this when pulling the engine, had put the old ones back in after an engine rebuild, then got new ones to swap in and fortunately the new engine grenaded itself making installation of the new mounts so much easier.
You should’nt have to take the brackets off the engine. If I remember correctly one of those brackets bolts (drivers side?) goes into a cooling passage and has to be sealed with permatex if you pull it. Frame bolts and the bolt and nut around the rubber isolator. The engine grease and grime made those fairly easy to take off the first time in my instance. The brackets on the engine were tougher to get out. 2x4 under the oil pan to lift. Loosening the exhaust at the flange by the Y pipe - depends how high to lift. I would not expect you’d have to lift more than 1/2 inch or so to clear getting them out but I cant recall interference sliding or twisting them to R&R without looking at it. Check the vertical fan tip to fan shroud clearance and have the hood open so the air cleaner stud doesn’t hit the hood. You never know. Lastly most new mounts from peoples experience are not clocked exactly like the factories. I used Fusicks and they were off. CARS might be off too recalling another members experience. The holes on the mount can be slightly elongated to get it to fit. After about a year they softened up and did a better job at isolating vibration so don’t get nervous if you at first feel every harmonic under the hood.
Others on the team may have more specifics. Good luck.
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Nice wagon! With a surf board on top….well then the neighbors will be talkin…🤣
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Reminded me of this ad as you go hunting for hills to try it out. Have to admit the 56 engine hiding in mine is rather fun 😁…which I might add was hauled out of NC-car-guy shed 👍-
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6 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Upon repair I had a steady 20" reading and the miss was gone.
Go baby go!
7.5 deg on timing here. Helped it run cooler, and I put the vac advance spring in from the 56 product service bulletin. No pinging under current conditions. I usually alternate/mix tanks 50/50 with 87 and ethanol free 90+ ever since that time you scolded me for putting 87 in it. See…I listen to you! 😁
BTW on more than one occasion my washer circuit was the cause of a sneak path vac leak at the dash. Not something intuitive at first, typically forget the dang washer is vac not electric and typically look under the hood for a vac leak. The second was that plastic T fitting getting brittle after only 60 years of running and splitting. Really glad you found it.
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Hmmmm….low vac and a miss…easy stuff first - try plugging both the source line to the vac wiper and the source line to the windshield washer button. Vac pump side of fuel pump too. Then from a vac leak standpoint it’s all engine and no accessories to cause distractions. Just happened all of a sudden?
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On 5/20/2023 at 5:16 PM, JohnD1956 said:
But I don't think I will be able to use it because it is too big for the shroud opening.
A 19 inch 5 blade fan was able to fit into the stock shroud on my 55 if the shroud was shifted up about 3/8- 1/4 inch - that pretty much centered it. Then sealed around the shroud with rubber washer tubing slit lengthwise to fill the gap between shroud and radiator (like you told me to!), the fan 1/2 into the shroud, and voila no more running hot and passes the rag stuck to the grill test (with the hood closed on the second try LOL)
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How’s the fluid level in the rear shocks look and any insight as to what fluid is in there? Use hydraulic Jack oil if you’re refilling. Check the rear shock links. Old Tank mentioned a good source for new improved rear links - think it’s bobs automobilia?
My preference is stock soft springs but the improved sway bar, HD gas shocks up front, and radials made a night-day difference in my cars ride and control on corners or broken pavement. Panhard bushings next - one of these days.
Have fun congrats on the new ride.
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On 4/29/2023 at 3:10 PM, Electra63 said:
If the tube is meant to draw in some fresh air I won't worry about it too much then.
You're correct that I don't have an electric choke so I have to think about either getting it functional again or installing an electric unit as you mentioned
Just curious if you can replace the tube that goes through the manifold. Alternatively on the early 55 manifolds there are a series of raised “zig zags” cast in on the back of the manifold with a cover riveted over that pattern and the carb heat tube pulls air across it to warm it. That cover disintegrated on mine and a choke stove, basically an insert that looked like a bolt half hollowed out lengthwise threaded into an hole drilled and tapped on the backside of the manifold out of sight, was the fix at the time and worked year round for many years.
Any way you can make a simple heat exchanger for the heat tubes air at the exhaust manifold will suffice. Just another idea to consider. Good luck
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On 4/15/2023 at 8:08 AM, EmTee said:
Hey Kosage - it's been awhile! Hope all is well. Any updates on the Buick or your garage?
Yeah is it done yet? Videos, construction, destruction, parts from all over the world in the mail….
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10 hours ago, old-tank said:
Liquid bypass solenoid.
Does that mean this isn’t needed or…. No expert either, never heard of it and to my knowledge not part of my aftermarket system.
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16 hours ago, MStuartk said:
Now I can blast away! 😂
Go git em Tiger! Glad it worked, thanks for the refresher. Have fun.
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On 4/2/2023 at 3:01 PM, Mudbone said:
It looks like Fusick has them also. Including the correct glove box lock.
Resistance should be 1.4-1.6 ohms per shop manual specs. Check the values, the replacements run high in my experience between 1.8-2.2 ohms. Potential to lower primary voltage and cause a weak spark when the generating system goes into discharge, especially hot idle in drive, aggravated when loads are on like headlights and fans. Try it and see first as all the other replacement parts exceeding spec tolerances these days may compensate. If you get a replacement that has the (nichrome?) wire exposed in back vs encased in ceramic, trimming off about 1/4 inch of length will bring it into spec. Verify with a meter.
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On 3/23/2023 at 10:23 PM, MStuartk said:
I think that over time, the metal against metal wore it out.
…so someone got a little crazy blowing the horn at crosswalks to see people jump 🤣-
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Looks like the metal edge on yours was ground down?
It’s not under much stress, maybe fabricate a ring or flange of proper size out of aluminum, steel or brass, cut it into 2 or 3 sections to fit inside and JB weld it in place. I’m not sure if that can be mig welded to….
Not sure it’s the plastic that holds it, it needs that metal shoulder to hold it. Unless I’m missing the point which is possible….
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12 hours ago, Machine Gun said:
You're not the least bit suspicious? Burying things years ago without witnesses? Won't allow you to dig it up? Any chance there might be some "passengers" in the Buick or the motor home? Some Italian guy from NJ is curious...
“Now youse can’t leave”. From A Bronx Tale.
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Johnd1956's Buicks
in Me and My Buick
Posted
If it advances, you’re seeing the mechanical advance plus vacuum as the engine hits steady state. When the vac drops under load as the throttle is blipped you.…. might……see the timing briefly retard until the engine reaches steady state and that could tell you it’s at least functional if you don’t have the means to isolate the two.
At very low 325ish rpm idle you’re seeing base setting only (vac advance source is ported vacuum which is essentially zero -no advance- with throttle plates closed on the 55/56 WCFB, vs manifold vacuum used on later models which is 18ish at idle), at higher rpm’s it’s centrifugal advance (engine rpm based) plus vac advance (load based). You’d probably need to be on the drivers side to see the mark to see total advance ( base plus mechanical plus vac) without an adjustable timing light lol.
Having had one act up on me before, the vacuum advance actuator starts to pull in (allowing advance) at about 7 inches of vacuum and is all in around 13-14 inches vac ( from my notes). So the vac would have to drop on the throttle blip pretty far and even then am not sure you’d see the number retard on the flywheel. If you want to see it in operation on car using existing source better maybe to be at part throttle steady state rpm, check there is vac available at the line, then connect it and see the advance.
Am assuming an adaptor to press into the vac advance port to use something like a mity vac isn’t available? Figured you might come up with something inventive like that polarizing tool, which btw I have just copied and threw in my tuneup kit (thank you very much 🤣🤣).
Worst case for a quick functional check without a separate controllable vac source, with the distributor cap and vac line off, rotate the breaker plate manually (compressing the advance spring) and press your finger over the vac advance port, maybe moistened with a little oil to help it seal, let go of the breaker plate and see if it holds. Am assuming the carb is supplying vac at the line off idle….