BuickNut
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Posts posted by BuickNut
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Hi...I have a 73 Buick Century GS, and it takes Regal Taillights, and I also need the Grill Center trim section, as well as the "BUICK" script on the front nose ....thanks.
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Hi,<P>Check out Hemmmings Motor News, they have a slew of place that can supply you with replacement coils.
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Thanks for the tip.......so I suppose the shakin' thing I did before pouring it into my daily drive was the wrong thing to do ???
..just kidding - good tip. I keep on forgetting my basic chemistry with things like this, let alone good ol' common sense. -
Hi...some questions.....who rebuilt them, and to what level, and how much do you want for them ? Thanks.
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I have some hydraulic shocks for Buick Apollo, brand new out of the box NORS, in I believe either Gabriel or TRW brands. $26.00 (includes shipping - slightly more or less depending on where you're at from Detroit). Contact me if you need some.
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As far as the brake lines - I would go ahead and form them yourself. You can use a manual tubing bender for bending the tubing. I tried flaring tubing from a roll (to get closer to the original length than pre-made tube sections) on 2 cars, and despite taking care, and having what I thought was a good tube flaring tool - I ran about 50% for all the connections - having to go back and reflare again after connecting, bleeding, and then putting the rest of the brake system together. Two big hassles was my limit. I finally broke down and bought sections of preflared tubing, using the old stuff as a template for length and shape. This made for some slightly longer lines - but I put some extra bends in them to take up the slack. Its not show quality - but cheaper than buying the prebent tubes and not really a big hassle either. Still looks pretty darn good. I've never messed with gas lines - so don't know how tough they are to work with.....
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On the subject, from experience (mine), the wife loved the idea of us driving an old car - but BOY did I hear it when she found it was a convertible
....don't know why, but she didn't want to drive around after the wedding and before the reception, with the top down...hmmm, wonder why ??? 
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Question on this subject - where, in view of today's enviormentally correct world, does one get rid of the gas ? I have in the past, when I had to drain the tank - kept it around and ran in in my lawn mower, or mixed it in in small amounts in my daily driver (no more than 10:1) and also put in gas dryer along with it.........any other ideas by chance ? I don't like having that amount of gas sitting around while I cut it into my driver.......though haven't had problems with the driver YET
, was wondering of there were other alternatives.. -
Just out of curiosity - did you ever check with the local ordinances to see what YOUR rights were as to the other guy parking in front of your leased garage ? I DO have respect for the law and the guys in the blue suits - but a lot of them do "blow the proverbial smoke" and state alot of laws that really don't exist to get you do go their way on things. I am curious as to what the actual law DOES say......
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The older radiators (B.P. - Before Plastic ! ) either had problems from :<BR>1) the cooling tubes becoming blocked<BR>2) the cooling fins becoming damaged and tearing from the tubes<BR>3) the tubes becoming damaged<BR>4) either the tubes or fins becoming corroded and causing leaks<BR>5) the solder at any of the tubes into the lower or upper tanks corroding away causing leaks<P>If its been sitting a long time - you really might want to consider getting it recored for piece of mind no matter what the pressure testing shows - I've seen too many cars flowing coolant on a hot day when things just went kaflooie ! Most of the radiator parts are either copper, aluminum and not steel (if memory serves me....) - and those materials corrode for many reasons. One is that over time - the coolant becomes slightly acidic and will cause the corrosion between it, the small iron rust from the engine internal passageways - no matter how many rust inhibitors are in the anti-freeze. Unfortunately - dummy me - I didn't drain one of the radiators before I stored one of my cars JUST AFTER HAVING THE RADIATOR RECORED !!!! When I pulled it out after TOO MANY YEARS (!!!), I found it to be marginal and re-recored it. So knowing better doesn't always mean much unless you practice it !!!!
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Well, looks like I was able to clear my calender for the Swap Meet.....gonna take 5 hrs driving each way from Detroit to get there though ! Still kinda anxious because all of the swap meets I've gone to here in the area have been lots of "candy" - but from the previous responses, sounds like this has actual stuff ya need to "restore yer wheels". I'll give'er a try and see what its like.
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I seem to recall seeing one of these advetised in Hemmings Motor News a bunch of months back.......I think the guy was asking something like $2 million for it, stating it was the only one that a private individual had gotten a hold up that was set up the same way as the gov't cars. Boy was that amount ever way out of line. I'm going to check some of my back issues to see if I can verify my memory on this.......
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Wow...definately a lot of work - a REAL labor of love. I do somewhat pity you in that a lot of your cash in restoring that beautiful babe is going to be in shipping of parts. I had shipped some shocks to a gent in Australia and the shipping via slow boat to China (6-8 weeks) was still more than what the actual cost of the shocks were. Good luck to you though.....while I pity you the shipping, I ENVY you the final result
Have lotsa fun in the trip to the final resoraion ! -
Gents, per the responses, here are some replies to the cars, storage, etc. : Two of the cars are Buicks ('49 Super and '73 Century Stage 1) and 1 is a Caddy Deville. As to storage, they are in a barn used for storing RV's, other old cars, boats, etc. The barn is open on and off during the year as the farmer also uses it for storage of his equipment. No plug for the enviormental chambers either. The caddy has not been started in 3 years, and the 2 Buics for 10-12 years. Great ideas so far. I think I will definately err on the side of caution and do the valve cover removal, and for the heck of it, pull the tanks and have them drained, cleaned, sealed. Anybody know of a good place to get the Fuel Tank Sending units ? Thanks a bunch.
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I have some cars that I'm starting work on that have sat for a very long time. What is the best engine prep steps to go through prior to starting them up so I don't screw up the engines from lack of oil ? They've sat for at least 3 years (yes, I know, shame, shame, shaaaaaaaaame
). I would probably first take out the plugs and partially fill the cylinders with some lubricant/penetrant, let it set for about 1 week, and change the now contaminated oil - but what about the internals of the engine the should be prelubed ? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. -
OK guys...just saw this thread....so how do I put a real hot Honda rice popper into my '49 Super AND switch it to front wheel drive ?
....does that get some eyebrows raised ? ....purerly kidding, purely kidding of course -
Some years ago I came across a company called "Antique Auto" (I think that was the name...) that sold Kelly Springfield wide white radials. Has anybody ever tried Kelly WW ? I've used their regular tires and have found them to be very reasonably priced, normal wearing, and depending upon the model - ok to very good performers.
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For an extra margin of safety, you might want to consider replacing all the brake hoses AND the hard lines - even if they LOOK good, they can fool you - either through the hard lines being rustier or the hoses being weaker than is the actual case. I made that mistake once. While the hose didn't break or burst, it turned out that the almost new looking hose had swelled inside and barely had enough open area for brake fluid to be of equal pressure as the other side. End result was that it pulled like ba-geezus to one side even though it LOOKED fine. Its a real pain - but for peace of mind - replace or rebuild the entire brake system if your not sure when the last set of hoses, etc. was replaced.
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I need from a 4 door sedan (series 51) the RH stainless gravel shield; hood emblem; door handles (exterior); other chrome and stainless (what have you got ??) in particular the grille and mustache bar; what else is on the table ?<P>Thanks.<P>Ray
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Howdy......I have a problem with my electric wipers on my Dad's '86 Buick. We replaced the wiper switch, wiper motor, and regulator in the system a year ago. The same problem now popped up out of the blue but with a new twist. The wipers were working on the intermittent mode when they all of a sudden stopped. The only wiper function now operating is the hi speed wipers....the washer mode doesn't work either. It seemed previously we actually cured the problem by replacing the last thing possible - the regulator. However, I don't recall that the washer mode was inoperable last year. Any slants on this ? Guess I don't want to do the complete system switch again as the parts are still kinda expensive... Thanks.
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Hey Bill - good to talk again.
I've got a '49 Buick Super and it has plastic tail lights with the rest being glass also. I'm not 100% positive, but I believe the tail light lenses are GUIDE ones...... -
Its kinda funny - the cars that always seem passed over, eventually become the hot collectors. Wagons used to be stripped for their big blocks, turbo 400's, and 12 bolt rear ends......NOW they're becoming collectors items. Sorry to say, there's not a whole lot of them around that are intact. Talk about goofy ! I like the popular cars too - but, no disrespect for the muscle car owners as I own 1 myself - I couldn't swing a dead cat at the Woodward Dream Cruise these past years without hitting a '66 GTO or its clone ! Its nice to see something different once in a while too !
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Ya know, I haven't gotten to my Buicks yet, but have the old '67 "ford"
(..I know - DUCK !!!) that IS drivable at this point - every time I get her out for the first time every year - I just start laughing and smiling as I go down the road. Its a feeling you just can't get with the newer cars. I'm hoping to get my Caddy on the road this summer so I can then start on my '49 Super. Now THAT is really the car I'm looking forward to getting on the road. It WOULD have been next except for the fact the Caddy in in the garage now and the '49 Buick is still back home in storage in a barn. Hey, the driving and the high that goes with it is the main reason to have the cars to begin with -
Question....is this swap meet have a good mix of both older and newer car stuff ? Also, has anybody been to this one ? I've been very disappointed with most of the swap meets I've been going to over the past few years as most of them just sell the "candy" such as magazines, diecast cars, chrome engine goodies, engine hop up stuff, TOO many tools, etc, and don't have much in the way of either engine parts, chrome grilles/door handles/emblems etc or body parts that you REALLY need to restore the car...any inputs on that or if they cover just the muscle cars such as GTO's, GS's, or do they have good mix of older stuff too ? Thanks.<p>[ 02-16-2002: Message edited by: BuickNut ]
Cars sat LOONG time...what to do before starting ?
in Buick - General
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Another question - I've heard about using drills to spin the oil pump - but never heard how to actually do it. Do I need some adapter to put into the drill, and where does it go ? I've got a '49 Buick Super w/ Straight 8 , '73 Century GS w/455, and '70 Caddy w/472 ? Thanks