Rawja
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Posts posted by Rawja
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Cajun, do yourself a favor and listen to these guys as they really do know what they're talking about.
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I moved this here from the AACA General Discussion section.
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Hey Jimmy,
Welcome to the forum. The build label should be in the spare tire well in the trunk.
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I have the pro-polisher machine, I just go lightly and quickly when I'm at the letters. Hasn't done any noticeable harm yet.
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Removing from the top is definitely the way to go.
They're also available new from M&R Electronics though taking pricing onto account I'd probably just go with a used one from Jim.
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As I have indicated again and again the vitriol and backbiting must cease immediately. The endless flaming and insulting behavior here has reached a point where the administration has been forced to action in an attempt to bring the level of discourse on our forum inline with the other sections of the forum system and within the bounds of common civilized courtesy.
Two suspensions have already been implemented and more are on the way once the duration(s) of sentence are hashed out by the moderating staff who are still reviewing the offending content.
Please please please do me and yourselves a favor and try to think twice before engaging in flaming each other as it will surely result in a swift suspension or a permanent ban as warranted.
The AACA has no stomach for the constant bickering and bomb throwing that has become emblematic of our section of the forums.
Do not rely on precedent when posting as the latitude in tone and content which was previously afforded is no longer in effect.
Please (re)acquaint yourselves with the AACA Forum Rules and act accordingly.
It's time to put down the brickbats and work cooperatively toward making this the best car forum on the internets. It used to be, so it's clearly not an impossible task.
I'm locking this thread as I neither want "atta-boys" nor complaints.
Just comply.
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Padgett: Wouldn't you do the pumping out of the old fluid first? Seems like otherwise you'd be pulling dirty fluid through the new filter, no?
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NEMO: I've deleted your last two posts.
I'd say Walt provided an end point for his described procedure:
repeat the procedure until the fresh fluid begins to show up at the end of the cooling line.Probably a combination of the two techniques would provide the maximum fluid change, pumping 'till clean fluid comes out and then dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Probably would use a lot of transmission fluid though..
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"Bulldog stance" is an apt description. I'm running Goodyear Eagle GT 225/55/R16s on my Reatta (w/'99 Rivi chromes and steveskyhawk-sourced center caps), have 'em on my '89 Allante and '88 Seville as well. Great looking and performing tires IMO.
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I'm pretty sure those 15" beauties are just polished..
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Whether it fits with your worldview or not, all three of the "domestics" are resurgent, making the best, most competitive cars they ever have. (And I would LOVE to get me a Volt).
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I've had 2 '88s and 2 '89s all of which had the hubcap instructions on the spare tire cover.
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I paid dearly to have my cassette player reconditioned, and even though I seldom use it to play cassettes, I don't want to mess it up.
It won't mess anything up. I would try to orient the dual conductor wire that comes from the cassette adapter so it lays flat to lessen the pressure on both the door and wire, but otherwise you're not going to hurt anything.
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AFAIR when the Seville was redesigned in '98 the Eldorado no longer had platform commonality and production was moved to Lansing for the remainder of the run (MY 2002).
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I've gone to Sears a few times with struts and tires I've purchased elsewhere, never had a problem.
Mounts aren't expensive, Rockauto definitely has 'em in stock, and yes an alignment is mandatory. I usually replace all 4 struts at the same time, but that's just me.
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Errrr.... May I ask how much you are comfortable spending on the restoration of this car?
It looks to me to be quite a project you are taking on.
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Your antenna cable is broken. Barney fixes them. You can pull the power connector to the antenna to stop the motor from running constantly.
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Gods I want that San Diego Reatta.
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Geez, I don't check the forum for a few hours and look what happens. :eek:
Just as a point of clarification for those of you who are conspiratorially-minded: We are using the term "vendor" generically here as that is presently the issue at hand. There is no commercial or monetary relationship implied with these "vendors" and the AACA or the BCA.
You can (and should) use the vendor term interchangeably with individual as there is no difference as far as the rules regarding bad-mouthing. Stating " "John Doe" is a crook" is the same-same as "XYZ chrome plating is a crooked operation".
This isn't about protecting vendors, it's about protecting the AACA from lawsuits from those parties that are aggrieved by libelous statements made on the AACA's forum. Right or wrong, win or lose, defending the AACA from lawsuits costs significant money, not to mention what it would cost if there was a judgement levied.
So remember what your moms all told you: "If you don't have anything nice to say..."
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You don't need to delete and repost, just go to edit and click the "go advanced" button which will allow you to edit the header as well.
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If the fogs are being utilized as DRLs your parking lights and taillights won't be illuminated. It's very unlikely that the option value sum has been somehow accidentally changed in the BCM.
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I messaged Jaxed and they've fixed the glitch. Try it now.
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Barney Eaton rebuilds 'em.
http://forums.aaca.org/f200/power-antenna-repair-306414.html
Hard to find master cylinder!
in General Discussion
Posted
If the unit we're talking about looks like the photo below I'd strongly suggest posting your symptoms down in the Buick Reatta Forum where our resident experts can walk you through diagnosis.
Parts are still available, remans have been and continue to be available. The system is sensitive to neglect, but properly maintained is very reliable.
Most mechanics simply don't understand the system, though it's fairly simple and easy to repair as there are a few very easily replaceable items that "go bad": Power relays, pressure switch, pump and the accumulator.
Even if you end up taking it to a mechanic, do the diagnosis yourself as they will generally just throw parts at it, unless you track down a garage that specializes in 80's European makes many of which used this system.