Rawja
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Posts posted by Rawja
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DOH!
I'm really embarrassed. Ronnie has pointed out to me in a PM that he does indeed already have the stuff I was referring to listed in his store. I go to his site, and sure enough there everything is.
I spent all that time doing the leg work when Ronnie had already done it. I must've had a mild stroke or something.
Is that toast I smell?
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From memory:
AFAIR the motors going up or down is controlled be reversing the polarity i.e.: terminal 1+ , terminal 2- window goes down; terminal 1-, terminal 2+ window goes up.
I would check the pin/wire color diagram in the FSM for the connector at the window switch to verify that the wires are in their correct positions within the connector.
I've never heard of the malfunction pattern you're describing.
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I do my best to make each unit fail on the bench rather than send out a bad unit to a customer
Finally an indisputable disadvantage to not living in the frozen North. Where you gonna find 40 degrees? I suggest you rent yourself a meat locker.
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As someone with a 10 car fleet '1984-94 and OCD when it comes to maintenance, I buy a fair amount of auto parts.
I've primarily been using RockAuto and GMPartsdirect, but noodling around it appears that a great deal of the items available from the aforementioned vendors can be gotten for less money via the Amazon route, not just accumulators and pressure switches.
It takes a little more time and cross-referencing, but there's real savings to had. F'er instance Looking at SensaTracs:
Front (Monroe Part Number 71800):
RockAuto: $41.79 + Shipping
Amazon: $36.24 Free Shipping
Rear (Monroe Part Number 71966):
RockAuto: $58.99 + Shipping
Amazon: $55.80 Free Shipping (drill down to seller "Just Suspension")
It's not absolutely always cheapest, but you can save a few bucks if you're willing to do the extra leg work.
Since updating the Reatta Resources thread to add references to Ronnie's Reatta Store, I have tried to remember to click thru his store before making my purchases on Amazon. While truthfully I rarely visit Ronnie's site, it's clear from the postings on here that many do and find it to be a valuable reference so I go to the minimal trouble of clicking thru to help support the site and why not? It doesn't me cost anything.
Ronnie: I'd suggest doing a little more work on the store to add more components (the struts are the most obvious, brake hoses, filters, and other consumables would be a good idea as well) which will make the store a better resource as well as getting you some more money.
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....run it continuously at high volume with the bass turned way up, and you may find otherwise.
Only speaking from my experience, so far so good. :cool:
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Stock '89 Reatta head unit. (actually the same one swapped from first car to present) 7 years driving 4 ohm all 'round and about 2 years now driving the 2 ohms. No issues.
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I didn't want to take up one of the "free" slots and not show up. You can put me down as a definite maybe.
I can't plan my schedule that far in advance at the moment.
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I switched to 6X9's in the back on my old '89 and now on my '88. Big improvement.
Presently running these Infinity Kappa 3-ways in the back (With matching rounds up front):
2 ohm resistance, BTW. The product literature claims the lower impedance results in more volume. Seat of the pants, seems to be true. It seems like i gots way more volume and bass than ever before.
I listen to techno-type crap mostly so I like a lot of bass and sparkling highs at significant volume. Left the door tweeters in as well for extra brightness and directionality.
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Listen, when you're pulling on the trim panel, make sure your pulling the plastic underlayment and not just the anodized aluminum overlay or you'll damage it.
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Very creative! Looks ok with the corvair, but the curves of a Reatta could make it a challenge.
That and successfully melding a plastic fender to a steel quarter panel.
Something like the Allante trailer below should be much easier to do..
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I'm sure pics, parts list and overview of your mod would be of great interest, please post.
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Sounds more like the overlay than the tube itself.
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Finally, someone else who knows how to put the "pro" in procrastination!
I've got yuhs beat, I've had a set of STS modules since 2002. One of these days...
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Oh, and I just paid 3.559 for 87 octane filling up me Trans Sport today.
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Hard part is the manufacturers seem to be treating service manuals for new cars as proprietary information.
Huh? I just bounced over to HelmInc.com and checked the Buick LaCrosse... 2012 FSM listed as not printed yet, 2011 available. You scared me there for a second. Bad enough they quit paper Parts and Illustration catalogs in '93, no FSMs would be the end of us hobbyists going forward.
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if the accumulator is going should the pump motor and pressure switch be replaced at the same time?
Nope.
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Pretty sure something similar is in the factory service as well, but I'm going from memory..
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Roger, looked at site and pictures of work.
Foam and vinyl are a different animal than working on a pre-war, cloth interior sedan, with cotton and horsehair.
Yeah, their website looks terrible. I'd never looked at it before, I just located it to provide the link. I've been to this shop in person a number of times and have seen their work, it's not all vinyl and/or and awful customization as the site would suggest.
A number of people from my local car club have used them for their cars of similar vintage as the original poster, and while I'm no expert on minutia of the cars of this era, the upholstery work looked good to me, and the owners of the vehicles (who did appear to be well versed in the finer points of their restorations) indicated their happiness with the work performed. Whether the seats were horsehair or foam I couldn't tell you...
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Series 2 started in MY '96 and also brought the changeover to OBDII with it.
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Try these guys... High quality at surprisingly low prices in my experience.
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Vintage Enkei aftermarket rims.
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Strap is pretty worthless IMO.
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Now I know there is going to be controversy about the words "often with new parts" This post has already gotten too long so I will let someone else pickup on that if they so desire.
Let's not, okay?
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This is petty funny.
A more Freudian typo has never been keyed..
If GM put a "Security Seal" on these switches I'm wondering why they would do this if it serves no purpose? I for one like to see the seal intact when I plug a switch into my 90 Select 60. Too much at stake.Standard practice so as not to have inappropriate warranty claims. I don't think it has any bearing whatsoever on whether one can successfully work on the innards.
As far as the damaged cars go it stands to reason that a person that has had trouble with a vendor's parts might just need to get repair parts from a different vendor. Anybody that is a parts vendor hears all the complaints about his competition believe me. I don't know where people are getting their switches but Mike and I both have received requests for wire associated with 90 light switches. After receiving these calls I tend to want the best untampered switch available at whatever price for my own car and only sell parts that I would use myself. I also recommend stock headlight bulbs to keep the draw down. I think we all can agree that the head-lighting system on the Reatta was less than robust. Therefore I am careful with maintenance and suggest others be careful as well. I have found that the number one problem with high mileage Reattas is the use of non or sub standard replacement parts, shade tree mechanics, aftermarket add ons and tampering.Coincidentally I seldom have trouble with my cars. I must be doing something right.
Look, I don't understand why there needs to this controversy. Having to buy a used switch rather than new already sucks. If having an intact purple sticker gives you piece of mind and you can afford it go with Steve, otherwise go with Jim. Easy.
I've been frequenting junkyards all the time now that I'm out here in AZ... so this random guy starts talking to me the other day complaining that his last junkyard alternator only lasted about a year and now he's back to get another one... For me, when I can get a part new I do so, but there's plenty of people in there buying ten dollar alternators (or the equivalent) and taking their chances. Neither approach is necessarily the correct one just different approaches to keeping your car on the road.
I recently did the Delco coil pack upgrade to my '88. Padgett uses junkyard ICMs and coils, I put in all brand-new parts. Neither approach is "wrong", and as (bad) luck would have it one of my brand new coils experienced crib death in less than 30 days, perfectly illustrating the point that even going with all-new all the time doesn't provide complete assurance of zero defects.
Putting my moderator hat on now, this forum is still under intense scrutiny and I won't be able to save those who continue to press this non-issue.
Color coordinated fashion accessories (shift knobs, etc)
in Buick Reatta
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Throw a nail brush into the mix to really get the gunk out of the stitching.