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Rolf

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Posts posted by Rolf

  1. Actually Dave, I am getting set up for cataract surgery very soon, and I did mis-read that post, but I faintly recall there was some problem with using those trick fluids in old systems?? My advice would be to use conventional coolant first, then maybe try the other stuff if you have problems, for what it is worth, from a half blind old Fogey, Rolf

  2. Hi, it should just be a bent lip on the bottom of the frame that hooks in to the bottom of the opening in the body, a little wiggling from the top, and maybe a little more gentle downward force, should pop it loose, but I can't remember ever taking one out, but that is how the inside door frames work on my '41, Rolf

  3. Hi guys, checked the parts book, unfortunately no pictures, but they describe the air cleaner for a '36-'38 as a H-9600, not used on cars equipped with air cleaner to inlet tube, replaced by 26H9625, the '42-'48 oil bath type, not sure if in a show they would allow that change or not, those were sure nice pictures of that immaculate'37 Cece, thanks for showing them, that air cleaner there does not look like any Ford I ever saw, and the H number indicates it is unique to the early Zephyrs, not gospel, but reasonable, Rolf

  4. But although I am head over heel into Lincoln Zephyrs and Fords, my son has jumped ship and built a '61 chev pickup into a semi-monster truck that can be driven off road or on road, it has a built 454, is on a '76 chev frame, has a Dana 60 4WD front end lifted way up, has been run, broken, and fixed better each time, the body is good. My son has fallen on hard times, and will reluctantly sell this bullet-proof truck very reasonably, his name is Doug in Burbank California, call him at (818) 848-3693, or write me at rolf@sasquatch.com Thanks a lot, Rolf

  5. OK Gang, moving right along, the '40 Continental convertible is now safely in the hands of a long time LZOC member, it's nickname has now become "De Rusty Bucket", and the description is apt, but the car was remarkably complete, but 20 years of Florida rain and humidity have devastated this forlorn relic. John, the buyer, is going to use some of the usable stuff on his own '40 connie convert, and will be willing to sell off the residue, so state any needs, the price will be right, the Columbia for sale was a spare picked up for this car long ago, but it was kept inside, and is in good condition, just wanted to update the saga, and since you guys like pictures, will include the one of the car again, Rolf

  6. Well Cece, I am really a gentle soul that bears no malice, just have a big mouth that translates to the keyboard, turns out this relic is a '40 Connie convert, no pictures yet, but the verbal description is pretty dire, there are 2 V-12's and a Columbia rear end, and quite a few extras, is located in North Florida, near the Georgia border near Jacksonville, it sat under a pine tree for 20 years with the front end protected a little, but the back and convertible top were exposed to the elements, and they are largely rusted to oblivion, time will tell how much can be redeemed, stand by, Rolf

  7. Yes Kieth, that is what my friend out here did with his '39, and he swears it is identical after it is installed, but I think it is solid, and a trifle shinier than the original, right guys?? But I am with you, and that is what I am going to use in my '41 after it is painted. Trouble is, 25 ft is fine for the little fenders on a bug, but a trifle short for a LZ, well maybe you can fudge the skirt welting with it too, even though it is a skosh larger actually, and pretty expensive, Ms Terhune, who advertises in The Way Of The Zephyr sells that stuff, good luck, Rolf

  8. Just after inadvertently alienating my acquaintance in Florida, I come across a guy with a very rusty '41 Connie Convertible there, don't know much about it yet, the fellow is going to send me pictures soon, sounds like it may be too far gone to restore, but may have some usable parts, he says it has 2 V-12 engines that go with it, one with aluminum heads, may be the original?? Anyone in Florida that would like to work with me on this, write me off site at rolf@sasquatch.com and we will see what we can do, thanks a lot, Rolf

  9. I am not presently a Plymouth fan, but used to be, got way-laid by Fords,

    couldn't beat them so I joined them, but what you might have here is a faulty

    starter relay, or solenoid, you can determine this easily by putting one end of

    a jumper cable on the terminal going to the starter, and the other end to the negative battery post, if the starter is OK, it should turn rapidly, if it doesn't, the starter is probally bad and needs to be rebuilt, hope that helps,

    Here is a pic of a '41 Plymouth I had a little trouble with in 1952, Rolf

  10. Hey Dave, please excuse my lame attempt at humor, had no intention of offending you, and I will not comment further at the risk of it being found out that I indeed do not know "it all", or even close, again, sorry, goodbye

  11. I guess I don't know very much about east coast Continentals, out here, in la la land, we merely look at the oil pressure guage for a moment when the engine is running, and all is revealed, but maybe you can call in a team of engineers with special equipment, and they can figure it out for your unique car, good luck, Rolf

  12. OK Dave, that is very good, and you have progressed through the easy part of the exercise, now we need to know about smoke, oil pressure, noisy valve lifters, and oil leaks, I am a big proponent of a compression check on all 12 cylinders too, tells you a whole bunch, Rolf

  13. Hi, just heard about this, not trying to run an ad, but if you are having overheating problems, this may be a solution, check it out, Rolf

    Hi, I will do 10 or 12 sets at the same price as the Ford pumps. That is $200 per set plus S&H $15.00 for a total of

    $215.00. I may have to increase them later as the cost and labor is more than the Ford types. Once the 10 or 12 people see how well they work word of mouth does the rest as far as repeat orders. This is how it worked with the Ford pumps. I have all the parts, worked out all the problems and they perform slightly better than expected which is always a good feeling. Every pump is tested on a machine and the pair are matched in output flow so there is no doubt how each set will work when shipped. I am ready to take orders and they will be returned in a week to 10 days from when I receive them. Thanks, Skip

    skip@fordsrus.com

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