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Rolf

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Posts posted by Rolf

  1. Hey Ace, I hope I am not the bearer of bad news, but using a '38 rearend for your '37 may not work, '36 and '37 had the Ford style center section, and a different length driveshaft and torque tube, you can make it work, by shortening the driveshaft and torque tube, on the '38, but you will have to deal with the wrath of a '38-'41 owner who can use that Columbia as is, Rolf

  2. Sorry to hear of your travails Ace, was your hubcap OK, undamaged?? You can safely jump a 6V system with a 12V for long enough to get it running with impunity, once it is running of course remove the jumpers, because even with being fortunate enough to have Jake Fleming, we don't want to strain our coils, hope your columbia is a great success, is it the type with the Ford center section?? Rolf

  3. Hey Dave and Diz, just thinking about this problem, and my memory fails, alas, entirely too frequently these days, but a quick search in to the photo archives reveals that the wing window handle is lower than the garnish molding, and would have to be disconnected from the wing assy before removal, I can't recall how the regulator is attached to the window, but it would probally require removing the door upholstery, removing the fasteners for the regulator, then removing the reg from the vent, all that stuff was gone in my latest '41, and the memory fails again, see the pic of where the regulator is located, good luck, Rolf

  4. Hi Rick, I believe that is a '42 hubcap too, it looks just like the one on the descriptive picture for a '42 on page V111 of the Lincoln parts book, the only other possibilities are totally different in '46, '47, and '48, your car does not have a liquamatic emblem on the glove box side of the dash does it?? Rolf

  5. Hi Dave, the only "magic" Jake uses to my mind, is his way of rebuilding the coils, I have sat and stared at non-functioning LZ coils a lot, with no idea of what to do with them, they seem to be time sensitive, like people, and they get old and die, Jake gives them some sort of transplant, and they are good as new!! His way of synchronising the points is much the way they were always done on the old Ford test set machine, or the Sun distributor machine, naturally the respective units have to be sent to Jake, if you have a spare, it is often a good idea to have him do it too, and you are pretty well set distributor wise, and can move right along, give him a call, good luck, Rolf

  6. For what it is worth, I remember some discussion here a while back about rear hub pullers, and I just saw this ad, know nothing about it other than that, Rolf

    Parts for SALE: For those who missed the last batch, we have made another 30 hub pullers. This is The Mechanic's Hub Puller that was advertised in the V8 Times. They are made on a computerized CNC machine. They fit Fords from 1928 to 1948. You can not do a brake job without a hub puller. To order, please send $57.00. plus $9.50 for shipping to Gary Hulsey, 6563 Maplegrove St., Oak Park, CA 91377 You can also email sirina_gary@msn.com for a picture or more info.

    Gary Hulsey < [ EMAIL ]>

    6563 Maplegrove St., Oak Park, CA USA - Wednesday, January 14, 2004 at 10:16:00 (EST)

  7. Turning to the trusty parts book again, Peecher is correct, the 86H4020 ring and pinion assy, with 4:44 gear ratio was used from '38-'48 in cars with and without overdrive, 26H4020, a 4:22 ratio was used in '42-'48 cars without OD, so I guess it was an option. If the car in the picture is a '42 for sure, it's designation should be 26H73, hard to tell without seeing the grille and the interior, '42-'48's are very similar, but not the same, as any one who has had one will confirm. I have made a study of gear ratios and OD's, so if anyone is confused about them, let me know, Rolf

  8. Funny you should say that Rick, I remember watching a 1941 3 window coupe, with a very modified V-12 turn 104 MPH in the 1/4 mile at Pomona Drag strip in 1954, didn't even have a locked rear end, but was bored out to 3 1/16 std Ford bore, with wet sleeves, a virtual Ford and a half, really impressed this 20 year old I will tell you, Gil Younger, the owner had "Drain Oil Special" written on the trunk lid as it made that run, great irony, hope the Lincolns on E-bay are great bargains, and everybody will be overjoyed with the transactions, Rolf

  9. Hi again Ricko, the doors are easy, absolutely no, Zephyr doors are totally different than Continentals, the locker rearends were used in the old days for drag racing, because the power is transmitted equally to both wheels, and is supposed to be more efficient, the draw back is that you lose the inherent differential provided by your spider gears, and turning corners with a locker is really hard, late models solve the problem with the limited slip differentials that will give a little in corners, but for a street Lincoln, believe I would pass on the locker, Rolf

  10. Hi Dave, not absolutely certain of authenticity, but these are the trim rings, see pic, that were on the '48 LC coupe we are trying to sell, have pictures of it's hubcaps too if you need them, but they are as you described, Rolf

    Pic is only 40,000 bytes, but they are saying it is too big, will try to send it to you off site, R

  11. Hi Victor, if I understand your question correctly, I think on the Continental, the key goes into a sort of button on the dash, and when unlocked you pull the button out, and I can not find it in my trusty parts book, but the pawl or lever you speak of keeps the button from moving when it is locked, but my memory isn't that clear, I sold my Connie over 50 years ago, and don't remember ever working on the ignition switch, pretty sure that is all it does, blocks the switch so it won't pull out. Rolf

  12. Well Cece, at the risk of boring everybody, I am right now hopefully finalising a deal to send this 1960 Custom Cab, see pic, to Australia to a guy who calls himself "Scrape" who says he builds car and trucks "low and fat", so it isn't destined for a happy end either, but I have had it up for sale for 4 months, and this is the first serious offer, time will tell, Rolf

  13. And sometimes they don't, in the '80's I built up this very original very straight and rust free '41 1/2 ton pickup, see pic, had a hot flathead and Lincoln brakes and OD trans and even a converted zephyr ignition on the flathead V-8, got a wild hair and put it up for sale on a consignment lot, and it sold for less than I had in it, saw it about a year later, chopped, channeled, SBC, totally destroyed, made me physically ill, and I threw up, cest la vie, Rolf

  14. Truth be known Dave, emotionally I would prefer an original '41 with a V-12, but practically speaking, the hopped up SBF really hauls, the AOD favors my gimpy left leg that will barely work a clutch anymore, and the disc brakes make up for my deteriorating 69 year old reflexes, plus my son who is a superior set up and front end man has got this big old coupe handling like a Jaguar, so I really have no complaints, here is the picture of it I should have put up, when I first got the '41, the other was taken after work on it had started. On the other hand, as some of you may know, I have been trying to sell a really straight rust free, complete '48 LC Coupe, like yours Dave, for a pittance, and it is open to street rodders too, so the opportunities are there, if someone would like to save a nice car, Rolf

  15. I started with H model Lincolns in 1954, back then Zephyrs were regarded as parts cars for Continentals, and only a few of us really liked and appreciated Zephyrs, and no engine ever made was held in lower repute than the HV12, "drain oil special" and "boat anchor" were often heard, and the plan then was to put a modern OHV engine in your Continental as quick as possible, and buy a cheap Zephyr for a parts car, all my Lincolns, I had over 40, had V-12's except 1, it had a flathead Merc V-8 in a customised '41 Continental, carson top, nosed etc.

    I was fortunate to have a really good V-12 in my first Zephyr, that showed me how good they could be, and subsequent purchases showed just how bad they could be, but a challenge for sure. Now here we are 50 years later, and I am once again involved in a 1941 Club Coupe, the car was a rusty incomplete mess when I bought it several years ago, see pic, and no good V-12 was available, and my competent son agreed to do the brunt of the work of getting it upgraded and running for me, which he has done with the help of a donor 1982 Lincoln Continental, so my car has a 302 V-8 engine, AOD trans Power Disc Brakes, etc etc. Can hear some of you hollering "sacrilege!!!" about now, but I paid less than 3K for the hulk, a few hundred for the donor '82, and my son has put 3 years of hard work in it, so that's my story, and I am sticking to it, some Lincolns are too rough to restore, and I think it is justified to make street rods or resto-rods out of them, rebuttals?? Rolf

  16. Kieth, I just talked to Bob B on the phone less than an hour ago, he has a lot of stuff, (480) 837-0979, Dave, I am going to start another thread on your street rod topic, I have some pretty specific ideas about that too, Rolf

  17. Hi Kieth, I got that SL-license light pad from Bob Boos, this new source just seems to have the TL housing to body pads, someone used to advertise a repro on those skirt lock nuts, believe it was Wehilan, and they were $40 per, not certain, the old memory is often questionable, saw it in "The Way of the Zephyr", wonder if other "lurkers" on this site would rather there was no discussions like that E-bay one, or not, or whether they would say?? Good luck, Rolf

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