bigrog

Feul pump!! Coil pack are cold start problems. I've had many customers that had the feul pump quit after a fill up. I think the hot/cold shock will finish them off when old. Tip: keep the gas level over 1/2 to keep the pump submerged in gas to keep it cool.<P> P.S. the overhot underneath could be caused by a lean feul mixture due to a bad feul pump(low feul pressure). While I'm here, do I spell feul correctly?<p>[ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: bigrog ]

Look for D&B radio out of New York. I will look for number and address at work if you can't find it. We use them at work as an authorized acdelco repair center.

Why is it that I can't sell a car? I try to buy old, worn out cars that aren't worth fixing to the average person, fix them and drive them myself for a while, but when I try to resell them, people seem scared to death of the history. Friends and relatives often buy these cars, when there is a need, but the general public is scared off. I frequently see people buy cars knowing nothing about it only finding out later it's junk. <P> My big question, why does a full disclosure of a vehicle chase away buyers? A partial, discrimanate sale works great? I don't get it. As a proffesional mechanic, people ask me about the work invested to my Reatta with the interest of purchasing, but their eyes roll back in their heads when they hear the extent of it. Why would a proffessionally maintained drivetrain and hvac scare someone?

Another great deal on e-bay.

More thoughts, if the msd adaptor slips between the coil and module for the GN, the system will function exactly the same on the Reatta. It appears to be a primary ignition amplifier, so I would strongly reccomend the msd coil to go with it. Otherwise, I would expect to burn out the factory coil quickly.<P> The spark from an msd system on a spark tester is an impressive sight, especlially compared to stock. Fireworks galore, and you don't want to be anywhere near of it for fear of being bit! Only downside is that it will wear out the spark plugs faster. Nothing but improvements for the driveability aspect.

The GN system uses a DIS system that is similar in appearance to the Magnavox DIS used in the Reatta, but has all different part numbers. I would expect that the main difference is that the GN system uses a single crank sensor, while the 3.8c uses a dual crank sensor. This is from memory, so don't go wild if I'm wrong. The 3.8c does use a dual angle crank sensor though, which I don't think they had when the GN was built. The ignition coil has a different part number than the Reatta, but they appear the same and actually will interchange okay, I've tried it. I believe the GN version has a hotter secondary ignition for higher rpm operation. <P> This is a neat idea, to put msd ignition on, but I think you will be dissapointed. The 3.8c should idle smooth in stock trim. Boosting secondary ignition is a good way to overcome a problem that is already there, such as improper mixture(restriced injectors) and might even help in the case of poor valve sealing. <P> I use aftermarket performance ignition products to improve performance in high rpm applications, and to couteract any carbuerator indescrepencies due to environmental changes, to avoid intermmitent fouled plugs. <P> I'm sure the upgrade will increase your satisfaction with the car, but don't overlook the root cause of the rough idle. Failures of the Magnavox ignition coil due to low secondary ignition votage are common, but causing extended crank times in cold weather, not rough idle. I don't know much about your application(age and miles), but I would look for poor sealing valves(leakdown test) or restricted injectors(injector balance test). The 3.8 is well known for wearing out exaust valves, mainly in hot climates. If you can get an injector balance test, all injectors should be within .5 lbs of each other, at MOST. The test is most accurate with the engine at ambient temp. Results are hard to read if the fuel heats up in the rail as the test is conducted.

I'm assumming by "dash lights" you mean the vacuum flourescent display lights(i.e., speedo display) which would suggest a problem with the 48 volt supply from the power supply module. If the central power supply module were to leak voltage from the 48 volt VF supply circuit to the 12 volt ecm supply circuit, I would expect to see dimming VF display and a very short lived ecm. <P> Just a quick thought on a possible relation between the two symptoms. A good suggestion as stated is to clean the power and ground junctions near the battery. Any control module will malfuntion with improper voltage, and may be damaged. Also, clean the ground junction at the ignition module mounting bracket, as this is a common area for trouble.<P> What are your failure symptoms? What failure condition does the ecm replacement correct? Also, what brand ecm is used? ACdelco or aftermarket? I would expect ACdelco from a dealer, and from experience would use nothing but in this application.<p>[ 01-12-2002: Message edited by: bigrog ]

Try new spark plugs, this is the first symtom of worn plugs. if you still have problems, test the ignition coil(magnavox, part #12353801) for proper output. this is a common failure on this engine.

Wow, sounds like it got hit by lightning! I think the odo info is stored in the instrument cluster itself. Evertime I've replaced a GM digital cluster, the place we get them from asks "what's the mileage?". I'm sure someone here will know for sure, though. You also may want to ask a repair/rebuilder center that handles this stuff, like the crt places mentioned here occassionaly.

I think this problem comes from the rear spring and/or the rubber insulaters used to hold it. GM W-bodies(Grand Prix, Regal, and Cutlass Supreme) also use this same design rear suspension and suffer the same clunky ride as they age. My '89 has it a little, with a little camber sag(if you stand behind the car you can see the tops of the rear tires leaning in) but when I priced out the spring, I decided it was liveable for a while. The camber sag can be aligned out with shimming to prevent tire wear and improve handling, but I will buy the spring sooner or later(probably when the tires wear out).

Do they make a really horrible buzzing noise?

The first two things to inspect here are state of tune, and proper minimum air rate. A third possibility is weather related fuel volatility compatibility. A fourth possibility, but doesn't seem to fit the circumstances, that affect idle control is a/c compressor cycling. Make sure the climate control is off next time you duplicate the condition to remove this possibility. <P> The most likely maintainence/age related thing that will cause this is carbon buildup in the throttle bore, which causes improper minimum air rate. Phisically clean(with a toothbrush and brake/parts cleaner if you have to) the throttle plate. If there is too much buildup here(and you would be surprised at how little is too much) the IAC will be operating at a flow value that is never intended to accuratetly handle that much airflow, thus the erratic idle. Best thing to look for is an IAC value of 10-20 counts at hot idle(195*f thermostat), all accessories off. If you command the IAC closed with the output functions, minimun idle speed(minimum air rate) should be about 500 rpm. <P> In short, ensure proper tune-up(mainly filters and spark plugs), then watch for proper IAC values at idle. If all that's good, try different grades/brands of fuel.<P> Your fail conditions suggest open loop operation, and that combined with your region and the onset of winter make me strongly suggest the fuel volatility thing, but it is well worth the time to inspect the throttle body for proper calibration. Again, this is all assuming proper tune-up status. My stated IAC values are assuming proper pcv function and clean air filter.

Been a member for a long time, just seeing whose watching. Actually, I forgot my password.<P> I own an 86 Camaro, 87 toyota celica(it's for sale), and a 91 ford F-150 along with the 89 Reatta, 130,000 miles. In my defense, the ford was cheap and I had to have it to pull the boat, 21 foot v-hull, 1978 with reconstructed floor, transom, and drivetrain. Untill I can talk the wife into dismantling a perfecly good running car(doesn't make sense to me either), I have to be content with making the boat go faster. Got 63mph the first year(conservative build) and still ran it as a family cruiser. Boats don't have the emmision regulations cars do, so that is where I put most of my hot rod efforts. Even have a seperate garage for this stuff. Already have the supercharged Reatta in mind so I can blow off the boating stuff for a while.

please post the readings from the inspection.

With 275000 miles, it is quite probable that an (or most) exaust valve is bad. This is the weakest point of the 3.8. A whole new engine is not a bad idea, but you could get away with a head job for a while. If you do go the route of a head job, inspect the countershaft bearings, there probably bad. Also pull the timing cover and inspect chain and tensioner. It's an all steel gear, but the tensioner shoe is fiber, plus there it may have the old style cam thrust bearing. The 3.8 bottom end is really tough, but with that kind of mileage, I would reccomend a new motor, or find a good machine shop to rebuild yours. While your'e at it, have the heads ported a little for some extra power.

Sound like premature lockup detected by the ABS control unit. Usually caused by faulty wheel speed sensor input. Can be caused by a faulty wheel speed sensor, or a poor connection in that circuit. Agressive driving should make a trouble code set, and then you will know which wheel speed circuit to inspect. Pretty normal ABS symptom on any car.

An idle change when entering diagnostics is normal. I don't have my manual handy right now, but sounds like TPS codes. If you have a service manual, the beginning of section 8(argh!) has a very good description of how to check for worn connentor terminals. An open ground circuit would cause high TPS readings(it's a potentiometer) so the ground side should be good. Lightly pull on the wires at the connector, sometimes the copper strands will break inside the insulation, with no visibile insulation breaks. you should be able to see a voltage fluctuation while doing this if this is the case. The 3.8 TPS is a very reluiable unit, and usualle only fails do to coolant intrusion, so look for any signs of stains. Remember, the throtlle body has coolant flowing through it. Check for worn terminals first.

contact your loca napa store. They can usually make new hoses, or tell you who can. Only problem, you'll have to remove the old one and give them a while to copy it. Should be relativly cheap. Those hoses aren't that hard to make, just requires the right tooling.

see if you can look at a new "multi function lever"(that is the part name for that turn signal-cruise control-wiper switch). almost any GM dealer will have one for something. Go in and buy something(you could use an oil and air filter couldn't ya?) and once you have their attention, get their help. Once you see the new part and how it fits, you'll see how to remove it.

Sorry guys(and I guess especially gals too), meant no offense. I get that way from time to time. Brenda, I respect your opinion here. you obviosly speak from valid experience. I've been hard on you because too many times, a mechanical repair or body repair(keep in mind these are two completely seperate fields of expertise) turns bad because of poor communication between the person that sells the work, the customer, and the person that does the work. I write here because I feel my experience can help others that respect the Reatta as I do. If I aggravate someone here, oops, sorry. I always call it as I see it, uncut. That's why the guy that does the work is not encouraged to talk to the customer. I'm the guy that does the work.

Reatta2Go, have you ever actually painted anything? If so, more than on once? Also, was the thrust surface of your timing cover worn from your broken cam experences? Was the thrust bearing early or late design?

HHHMMMMMMMMMM? Whaditellya about all this alignment stuff? Gets messy. I have the camber/rear strut/rough ride problem on mine(89). Will update you when winter is over and the car is fixed, but I don't expect that I'll like it, much less you guys that have to pay someone else to do this stuff.

What, not a seperate coat? It can be mixed and sprayed in one application, but that's to save time(and money, of course). The best looking jobs are two seperate coats. Hang around a body shop for a few years and see the difference.

Thank you Tom, well said. I have relatives in yorkville with pontiacs(and many other GM's) and a durango. Any reccomendations on shops?

WOW! I gotta go to Canada! Sounds like a good deal, but I've never seen that here. By your figures, $45/hr Canadian is $30/hr US, which is $1350, leaving $350 US for materials. I'm not a body tech, but I work with some very good ones, and they tell me that on any car for a really good job to expect $500-1000 for materials, and that's our cost! Bruce just got done painting a 69 chevelle(silver w/black racing stripe) and was handed almost 1000 for just tape and spray, and wet sand. It's all about "you get what you pay for", but the Canada deal does sound good.