Podster

I believe that Skip Boyer used to make the clock face. I bought mine from him about 15 years ago. His email address was RICHBOY@SUSCOM.NET

Sorry to join in late in this conversation, but have you tried double clutching from second into first? It's the process of stepping down on the clutch peddle twice and then shifting into first. It may take a few times to perfect the process but it is a lot quicker. Check it out on You tube to get the general idea.

Well the shaft is shot. It has a radial groove caused by the inner edge of the brake pedal arm rubbing against it due to a paper thin, worn-out bushing . If the shaft is shot , then the bore on the arm must need to be opened up due to wear. The bushings that are currently on the brake and clutch arms have tiny perforations to distribute grease along the shaft. There is also a hole in the bushing for the grease fitting. I guess the grease fitting hole is drilled after the sleeve is inserted?

I need to locate sources that are experienced in replacing the bronze sleeving on my 1940 Buick brake pedal arm. I know that White Post does work like that for sleeving brake cylinders. Does anyone know of other sources to contact that are experienced with sleeving antique car parts?

I had mine done by Doug Seybold about eighteen years ago and they look as good as the day i received them back. I also visited his shop about ten years ago and left confident that he is by far the person to go to pertaining to 1940 and 1941 Buicks. But his work is expensive.

I have two 40 buicks and they both have NAPA #7248 , 3EN, 875CCA, 1035CA@32F batteries that keep on going. They fit the tray and cover too!

I agree that it would be a good idea for one of the chapters to take on the project. It is a good advertisement for the BCA and they look as classy as the Buicks we drive. Were the original frames made out of metal?

Where can I get a couple of those great looking BCA License plate frames? Did a chapter sell them at one time?

I can't be the first person to bring this topic up, but hasn't gotten to the point that searching for parts for your car has become totally useless on ebay? I have two 40 Buicks and decided to see if there were any parts worth buying for my cars. I started in the "Interior" section and came upon dozens of listings showing bucket seats with the statement " fits 1940 Buick". I went through all of the sections and outside of the Brakes section found only a few legitimate listings for my cars. Is there a method for cutting out all the " fits..." listings in ebay?

Thanks for responding. All your responses gave me some information to work with. I considered having the machined seating area kissed, and I may do that. However I noticed that the wall thickness at the bottom end of the bore diameter is no more than 1/16" thick while the top end is about 1/4 " thick. That is not much of a sealing surface on the bottom. It is not a very good sand casting and may have shrink in that area. I also compared the old copper seal ring to the one I received in the repair kit. The old one was .066" thick the new one is .039" thick. I good reason to buy NOS.They are both scratched up from assembly and disassembly. Anyone know where I could buy copper seal rings? Billy, when you loosened and tightened it 100 times, was it a quarter turn back and forth each time? Sounds like you made a groove in the sealing ring which increased the sealing surface. Don's idea about annealing the ring does the same thing except the soft ring is being squished. Did you use an Oxy-Acetylene torch? The ring didn't warp?

I just had the master cylinder for my 40 Special bored and sleeved. I decided to buy a rebuild kit and do the rebuild myself. Piece of cake thought, except for one problem . It leaks from the copper seal ring between the master cylinder body and the treaded port base. I torqued the heck out of the threaded base with a pair of Channel Locks but it still leaks. Is there some kind of trick to sealing this area up, like Teflon tape on the threads?

Selling a set of (not recently) reupholstered seats on Craig's list from a 1940 Buick Model 41. Here is the shortcut if interested: http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/4485853658.html. I also have a rear seat with the original fabric and a front seat frame. They are taking up too much room in my house and I need to sell them before my wife puts me on TV as a hoarder.

In what section of the workshop manual did you find that information? You're right, the better way to call them is wheel bolts.

How many ft/lbs do you torque the lug bolts on a 1940 Buick Special? Also where do you find that information? I can't find it in the owners manual, Buick shop manual,or Chiltons. Ahh! I just found it in the Motors Auto Repair Manual and it says 60 to 65 Ft/ lbs. Does that sound right? That's pretty low!

Hunley Acuff did my '40 Buick Special Model 41 years ago for $600.00 and they came out perfect. At that time he wanted any rust holes in the boards welded up and the entire boards media blasted. They still look great today.