Podster

I believe that Skip Boyer used to make the clock face. I bought mine from him about 15 years ago. His email address was RICHBOY@SUSCOM.NET

Sorry to join in late in this conversation, but have you tried double clutching from second into first? It's the process of stepping down on the clutch peddle twice and then shifting into first. It may take a few times to perfect the process but it is a lot quicker. Check it out on You tube to get the general idea.

Well the shaft is shot. It has a radial groove caused by the inner edge of the brake pedal arm rubbing against it due to a paper thin, worn-out bushing . If the shaft is shot , then the bore on the arm must need to be opened up due to wear. The bushings that are currently on the brake and clutch arms have tiny perforations to distribute grease along the shaft. There is also a hole in the bushing for the grease fitting. I guess the grease fitting hole is drilled after the sleeve is inserted?

I need to locate sources that are experienced in replacing the bronze sleeving on my 1940 Buick brake pedal arm. I know that White Post does work like that for sleeving brake cylinders. Does anyone know of other sources to contact that are experienced with sleeving antique car parts?

I had mine done by Doug Seybold about eighteen years ago and they look as good as the day i received them back. I also visited his shop about ten years ago and left confident that he is by far the person to go to pertaining to 1940 and 1941 Buicks. But his work is expensive.

I have two 40 buicks and they both have NAPA #7248 , 3EN, 875CCA, 1035CA@32F batteries that keep on going. They fit the tray and cover too!

I agree that it would be a good idea for one of the chapters to take on the project. It is a good advertisement for the BCA and they look as classy as the Buicks we drive. Were the original frames made out of metal?

Where can I get a couple of those great looking BCA License plate frames? Did a chapter sell them at one time?

I can't be the first person to bring this topic up, but hasn't gotten to the point that searching for parts for your car has become totally useless on ebay? I have two 40 Buicks and decided to see if there were any parts worth buying for my cars. I started in the "Interior" section and came upon dozens of listings showing bucket seats with the statement " fits 1940 Buick". I went through all of the sections and outside of the Brakes section found only a few legitimate listings for my cars. Is there a method for cutting out all the " fits..." listings in ebay?

Thanks for responding. All your responses gave me some information to work with. I considered having the machined seating area kissed, and I may do that. However I noticed that the wall thickness at the bottom end of the bore diameter is no more than 1/16" thick while the top end is about 1/4 " thick. That is not much of a sealing surface on the bottom. It is not a very good sand casting and may have shrink in that area. I also compared the old copper seal ring to the one I received in the repair kit. The old one was .066" thick the new one is .039" thick. I good reason to buy NOS.They are both scratched up from assembly and disassembly. Anyone know where I could buy copper seal rings? Billy, when you loosened and tightened it 100 times, was it a quarter turn back and forth each time? Sounds like you made a groove in the sealing ring which increased the sealing surface. Don's idea about annealing the ring does the same thing except the soft ring is being squished. Did you use an Oxy-Acetylene torch? The ring didn't warp?

I just had the master cylinder for my 40 Special bored and sleeved. I decided to buy a rebuild kit and do the rebuild myself. Piece of cake thought, except for one problem . It leaks from the copper seal ring between the master cylinder body and the treaded port base. I torqued the heck out of the threaded base with a pair of Channel Locks but it still leaks. Is there some kind of trick to sealing this area up, like Teflon tape on the threads?

Selling a set of (not recently) reupholstered seats on Craig's list from a 1940 Buick Model 41. Here is the shortcut if interested: http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/4485853658.html. I also have a rear seat with the original fabric and a front seat frame. They are taking up too much room in my house and I need to sell them before my wife puts me on TV as a hoarder.

In what section of the workshop manual did you find that information? You're right, the better way to call them is wheel bolts.

How many ft/lbs do you torque the lug bolts on a 1940 Buick Special? Also where do you find that information? I can't find it in the owners manual, Buick shop manual,or Chiltons. Ahh! I just found it in the Motors Auto Repair Manual and it says 60 to 65 Ft/ lbs. Does that sound right? That's pretty low!

Hunley Acuff did my '40 Buick Special Model 41 years ago for $600.00 and they came out perfect. At that time he wanted any rust holes in the boards welded up and the entire boards media blasted. They still look great today.

My worry is if you don't have a pattern to give to a fabricator, how does he know he is doing it correct? The tail end of my 1940 Special Model 41 was redone at some time and looks great. Unfortuneately it has more of a bow than it should. A 1939 and 1940 Special rear panel looks pretty much straight. My car's has a curve. I want to get my car corrected, but what guarantee do I have it will turn out original? That's why I am looking for a preformed panel.

About 15 or 20 years ago, there was a place that advertised sheetmetal repair panels for Buicks in Hemmings. For example they made the back body panel which is the part of the body that is below the rear bumper on a 1940 Buick. Anyone know a place that makes these panels? I know they exist. Today I met someone that says he has a catalog on Buick replacement panels, but couldn't remember the company name. I also spoke to the owner of a Buick restoration shop that acknowledged the existance of these repair panels. Any leads?

I need a window regulator and racks in good working condition for the drivers side door on my 1940 Special Model 41 a door sedan. Email podster@warwick.net

How do you remove the harmonic(torsion) balancer off of a 1940 Series 40 straight eight? There are no threaded holes to attach a regular harmonic balancer tool and the pulley is not strong enough to withstand a large gear puller. Help!

Ed- It is pretty ironic that I don't get onto this forum as much as I should, but I was trying to figure out the best way to get my radiator out of my 40 Special tonight and decided to post the question here! And there you were! I thought that perhaps if I just took the water pump out and of course the hood, maybe I could slide it past the rest of the engine parts. But I guess you tried that. Did you loosen the fenders from the radiator support and pull the support (the part that the radiator bolts on to) and the radiator out together?

Give this a shot. Run a 0 or 00 lugged cable from your chassis to your block. Make sure the lugs are attached to bare metal on both ends. I remember having the same problem with my '40 Special, and that seemed to help a little. You also need a good, strong battery. How many CCA's does your new battery have? Cars,Inc, in Neshantic Station, NJ (a very cool place to visit) sold me one that works beautifully. Tractor Supply also has one with high CCA, but I haven't worn out the one that I have now, in order to try there's. But the key thing is heavy, uncorroded cables. Also buy a Battery Tender. Six volt batteries tend to die quick when they are not kept charged. Slow charged.

There's a Model 56S selling on Ebay that is prety original. It has been in a family ever since the end of World War II. Hate to see this car get parted out or rodded after decades of good care! Bidding ends 7/30/06.

I bought a glove box about two years ago. I finally went to put it in, and noticed it is a mirror image of the old one. So I figured it would fit a right hand drive car. If anyone has a right hand drive 1940 Special Century Or Limited and needs a box, all I want is the cost of a replacement ($31.00 US?) plus shipping. The liner is grey. Located in Highland Lakes, NJ 07422 USA. Email: podster@warwick.net

A few years ago I bought a glove box liner from a reputable Buick parts dealer. My original liner was brown. However, the one they sold me has a grey liner. What was the correct color for a Series 40?

I would like to know the appropriate places on the frame to hang my 40 Buick 4 Door on jack-stands. My worry is that the weight of the car could dent or bend the frame if I put the stands in the wrong place.