YellowLark

I have recently installed the semi-Kevlar shoes from PraiseDyno Corp. They definitely improve your stopping power. Worth switching to. Doesn't "organic" mean "asbestos"?

Here are the facts of this "legislative alert". It was buried in a flurry of air pollution mitigation proposals: http://www.intellisearchnow.com/pwrpub_view.scml?ppa=6iiqx%60Zdcjptxy%5BUkgy30qbfeiZv

A suggestion. If you're going to restore to a high level of detail, you need a good set of manuals and a parts catalog to answer these types of questions. This firm has both on CD: http://www.classicautomanuals.com/merchant2/merchant.mv? Good Luck

I bought mine from Jim Osborne at the 1999 Spring Carlisle event. Had them in his inventory there. The "Wildcat 375" decal was a perfect match to the original metal plate. You're right that the online catalog doesn't show them, but I would suggest that you call Osborne and ask if he still has one.

The hole in the front of the left valve cover is where a duct goes to the air filter in 1966 California-destined cars. That was CA's first year for emission equipment (besides the PCV valve we all had). For the other 49 states we didn't require that duct, so ours came with the rubber plug. Still have no idea why you have that right cover. Mine is metal ribbed up to the front. Thanks for the pictures.

On the air cleaner decals, which are thin metal plates, these are not available. You can get a stick-on "Wildcat 375" decal from Jim Carpenter Reproductions. And, you could buy a metal plate of the correct size from a Oldsmobile source for their Cutlass engines, and stick the 375 decal over it. I researched this a couple of years ago. Correction - that's Jim Osborn reproductions www.osborn-reproduction.com Don't know why that 340 has a plug hole on the right valve cover. Mine doesn't, and I know it's factory original. Never saw one like this....

They fit the 1967 engines, not the 1966 ones. The 1967 340's valve covers have a flat area where those decals go. My 1966 does not have the flat area.

The 1966 Buick Chassis Service Manual says to remove the fender. However, there is also a trick shown where a 3/4 hole saw opening is made at an exact spot in the wheel well to allow wrench access from underneath. There have been several posts about this, and different advice given. When I replaced my heater core, I just removed the fender. No big deal.

Be careful about a Lesabre radio fitting a Skylark. I know that the 65-67's are different and suspect that the later years are also. You can probably use the power window mechanisms out of any 68-72 GM A-body car. So, look at the sister cars from Chevrolet, Pontiac, and Oldsmobile for a matching model.

Same to You, Keith. See ya in Flint.

I'll second Joe's recommendation. With a Stage 1, you will want the proper 200-4R upgrades to handle the power. That can be done with the rebuild.

There was (is) a posting on the "for sale" section from a few months ago about this topic. I said that I had lined up a 66 and a 67 and both of us owners agreed that the fenders were different. Another poster named Henry, from Texas, refuted that by citing Hollander Interchange Manuals that said they did interchange. I now believe that Henry is right, but there is bodywork involved to modify the porthole/vent decoration areas. So, if you're handy with a torch, they can be made to interchange.

You have at least two choices in showing your car under the BCA 400 point judging system. Under regular class judging, you will lose specifed points for non-original things like radial tires, incorrect air filter, hubcaps, seats, radio, etc. The car can have brand new paint, chrome, seats, tires, etc., as long as those pieces are factory correct for that year and model car. Under archival class judging, you can lose points for repainting and rechroming the original pieces. In other words, the car can look beat up, but it should be unrestored. The purpose is to preserve such cars as reference material, and encourage old "drivers" to the show events. I'm simplifying this, but that's the general idea. You need to get a BCA Judge's Handbook to read the rules in detail.

This is one of those posts that only needed one perfect response, which is what the Old Guy provided.

Don't worry about lead additive. Worry about octane additive. If you have the 340 MB engine with 10.25:1 compression, you can expect pinging without an octane booster.

Judges are BCA members who volunteer to spend a good part of the Saturday show event looking over a small number of cars in great detail, while non-judges are free to flit about the entire event and peruse all the car classes. There are usually two training sessions (one for beginners) the day before and a judges' breakfast on Saturday before the event. There are some folks who know certain cars in incredible detail and own every shred of documentation on them, and others who know much less but heed the call for needed volunteers. Fairness and common sense and examples of evaluating certain items are taught at the classes. If you want to understand judging, you need to volunteer a few times.

It's like the Olympics - gold is above silver, which is above bronze. Senior is the highest point category, which I think is 390 out the BCA 400 point system. Points separate the awards. You need to get a BCA Judge's Guide, which spells out what is evaluated for how many points. If every car entered is worth 385 points, then all those cars get Gold awards. Archival cars are unrestored cars. Drive in your old beater. You lose points for items that have been replaced since new. Cars shrinked wrapped when new can compete in either archival or regular classes. Buicks are rarely kept that way.

If it's a '66 Special with a green engine, it's the 300 cubic inch engine mentioned above. Horsepower was 210 in 1966 terms, or about 150 by modern standards.

Have read many postings on this subject. Consensus is usually that you would need lead only if towing trailers up mountains. There are rumors of Buicks having more noble metal blocks, but the bottom line seems to be that there are few or no accounts of people having problems using unleaded. For octane, would think that your 9.0:1 engone would be OK on 89, or possibly 93 if it knocks. You certainly shouldn't need octane booster. I need it badly in my higher compression engine, but that's a different story.

The ST300 transmissions are often throw-aways as people switch their cars to higher performance. Sometimes see them for sale or takeaway on boards like www.v8buick.com. If you have yours rebuilt, just make sure that the shop doesn't mistake it for a Powerglide. Everything is different from a Powerglide.

Try the Performance section of this site. Use the Search function with "300". Many 300 owners have shared performance ideas on various sites.

Doug, I am happy with: Seymour Cast Blast 16-048 Cast Iron Gray from: Branden Enterprises (215) 322-1098 Bought at Carlisle, 1999.

I have seen references to 1966 A-body cars designated for export that were classified as "knock-down chassis". At the moment, I can't find my documentation for them. But, the number involved was small, perhaps 200 or less. Maybe someone else has info on how to identify these cars. What is the VIN on yours?

Well, of course I'm biased to paint code "Y". But, if yellow with shiny black roof is not your cup of tea, I've always admired that late '60's metallic green color, which I think is called "seamist green". Very distinctive and very Buick.

Checked them out. Incorrect for 1965 and from a later car. But, they look nice, and would fit your car, and fool everybody except another owner or fussy BCA judge.... Your choice.