ThomasBorchers

The MotoMeter shows you with a thermometer in it the temperatur of the water in the radiator. This is not only to check the temparatur for overheating. If you have a car with radiator shutter you can see there the point when you should open the shutter like at a 1918 Hudson at 130°F but you should have good eyes to see it from the drivers seat. In the main thing it is to control the temperatur of the water as I said.<P>Tom

Yes, the guys in Reno have them and...yes...I would like to say for all makes. I can see here 283 makes. They have also repair kits and accessories for the MotoMeter. You can get it in brass or chrome.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

Dear John.<BR>You should try it here:<P>Veteran Auto Lamps<BR>94 Princess Street<BR>TE AWAMUTU 2400<BR>NEW ZEALAND <A HREF="http://www.veteranautolamps.com" TARGET=_blank>www.veteranautolamps.com</A> <BR>Phone: +64+78713854<BR>Fax: +64+78713875<BR>Email: ken.trish@veteranautolamps.com<P>It is of course outside the country but it seems to be a good source for brass lights and gas generators.<BR>They are members of the HCCA like me.<P>Good luck<P>Tom

Hi Kevin.<BR>Thanks for this information. The car is in Germany and owned by a friend. I have no information what model the plate says but it has a fold down wind screen and it is a left hand steering car.<P>Thomas

Hello you all.<BR>I read this discussion about the silicone brake fluid and I remember that we had some warnings here in Germany about it. At first, the silicone fluid is of course the better fluid as the normal with all the pros you wrote down. Here they say the same but they say also that it is important that all brake parts (hoses, rubbers in the cylinders) must be developed for the silicone fluid. Otherwise the rubbers come in a bad condition.<BR>That means (as far as I know) you have to flush the brake system and to change the rubber parts of the brake system.<P>Thomas

Ron~~<BR>Yes, if you said the "Standard Catalog of..." shows only that what you said and there was no Roadster at the 116 series.<BR>Kevin~~<BR>Yes it would be great to know more about this car. But why did they call it a Model 25 because they used since 1928 a three digit series number. Or do you mean the body style number? #25 is a 4d touring and this car is a roadster.<BR>It would be great if you can find out more.<BR>Thanks<P>Tom

Hello you all.<BR>A friend told me often that he has a special 25. anniversary model which is very rare. He says it is the shortest wheel base with the largest engine of the year 1929. That means 116 inch w.b. and the 309 cui engine. It is a roadster. <BR>Was there such a car? If yes, how many were built and how many exist now?<BR>Thanks for your help.<BR>Tom<BR>

Hello you all.<BR>A friend told me often that he has a special 25. anniversary model which is very rare. He says it is the shortest wheel base with the largest engine of the year 1929. That means 116 inch w.b. and the 309 cui engine. It is a roadster. <BR>Was there such a car? If yes, how many were built and how many exist now?<BR>Thanks for your help.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

I am looking for a 1932 Buick 4door Sedan. All series but large would be nice. <BR>Only in a very good shape. Professional restoration. In the same condition as it was new. No rest work. Perfect mechanism at engine, gearbox, brakes and so on. And...for a nice price, of course. <BR>Tom<P>

Do you have a fax number or Email address from your friend?<BR>Thanks<P>Tom

I am looking for a 1932 Buick 4door Sedan. All series but large would be nice. <BR>Only in a very good shape. Professional restoration. In the same condition as it was new. No rest work. Perfect mechanism at engine, gearbox, brakes and so on. And...for a nice price, of course. <BR>Please contact me direct via Email: Borch1090@aol.com Thanks!<P>Tom<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 03-08-2001).]

Isn't it great if we can see here how a car comes back to live?<BR>The best thing of an auto restoration is to assemble the car with fresh restored and painted parts. <BR>Great, Hal!<P>Tom

At our 1912 Buick we have these nice petroleum cowl lights but they are in a very bad shape so we will replace them with new ones (new authentic will be ok). Where could we buy these lights? <BR>One glass mirror in a head light is broken. The head lamp is a Gray & Davis Model 96. The diameter is around 6 inch and the glass is at the rim around 0.6 inch thick and at the center of the glass around 0.2 inch thick. Is it possible to get such a glass mirror? <BR>Thanks in advance<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

I got it, I got it.<BR>A bit faster this time. The Postal Service has now cycles. <P>Tom

Gulp... <P>Tom<P>

Still none in Oldenburg/Germany but that's always normal...seems that mule of our mail service is very slow. <P>Tom

<BR>Howard~~<BR>In my instruction manual for my 1912 Cadillac with its 36x4 tires, I can read that I have to use 70 psi. <BR>Huh...I must say that I am really afraid that it will make a big "BANG" with this high pressure. At the moment I am at 65 psi.<P>Tom

I asked some guys here in Germany about the condensor and they said that it is not important if you use one for a 6 or 12 v system. The condensers have all a voltage range and no fixed voltage. Important is the capacity as Rick said.<BR>Well, what shall I say...Today I made my first small tour with this car for this year (suddenly stopped by heavy fog here, so that I had to turn around) and the Cadillac started very good (4 turns or so) and run perfekt. I will see what will happen if the car stands still for 2 or 3 weeks...<P>Tom

Yes, you have right. I will try this but I didn't know that it is important if I use a condenser for 6 or 12 Volt.<BR>Thank you. <P>Tom

Howard~~<BR>Normally at the magneto distributor is a condenser in its box which is screwed on with four screws at the distributor. On this small box is the name "Delco", of course. At the moment there is a standard condenser mounted at the terminal. You know this normal round type like in every day cars. At the moment I use one of a 1956 Buick but I am not sure which capacity it should have. My first idea was also that it could be a problem of the condenser. Is there the original type available?<BR>The second problem is that the vibrator don't want to vibrate. I had it that the engine run a short time at "batt" and then it stopped because the vibrator didn't vibrate... Have to find this out, too.<P>Tom

After a longer time (1 to 2 months) of not running engine I have always the problem that there is no spark with the magneto system of my 1912 Cadillac. So I removed the distributor cap and tried to close and open the points with a wooden stick and I will get a good spark at the coil but not every time when I open the points. After some open and close the points the amount of sparks increase but the interesting thing is that it will not work when the points open and close by the distributor cam. It is not a question if I do this by hand crank or if I do it with the starter. After more open and close by hand with the stick, it will then work with the distributor cam and the engine starts. The points are new and I have no idea what the problem is. <BR>What capacity should the condenser have? Who knows that?<BR>Thanks for your help in advance.<BR>Tom<BR><P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

After a longer time (1 to 2 months) of not running engine I have always the problem that there is no spark with the magneto system of my 1912 Cadillac. So I removed the distributor cap and tried to close and open the points with a wooden stick and I will get a good spark at the coil but not every time when I open the points. After some open and close the points the amount of sparks increase but the interesting thing is that it will not work when the points open and close by the distributor cam. It is not a question if I do this by hand crank or if I do it with the starter. After more open and close by hand with the stick, it will then work with the distributor cam and the engine starts. The points are new and I have no idea what the problem is. <BR>What capacity should the condenser have? Who knows that?<BR>Thanks for your help in advance.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA<p>[This message has been edited by ThomasBorchers (edited 02-11-2001).]

Thank you Peter.<BR>This is a great idea. I am very glad to be with you all via some nice live pics.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

That's a very good idea that "my" HCCA is here, too.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA

I must say also that Fords Model T is a good entry. If you buy a roadster or touring they are even fast cars. <BR>One questions is if you like to crank the engine or if you are perhaps a bit afraid in this. I know some people who would like to own a brass era car but the don't like to crank. So you should then buy a car with an electric starter. <BR>I prefer powerful cars with big engines like my 1912 Cadillac. Perhaps you have the chance to drive some different brass cars? An easy to drive car is the Model T with its transmision. With some cars it is sometimes not easy to change gears. And of course it is a question what car you would like to own. Some cars have a lot of brass and some not like my Cadillac. Nice brass cars are 1909 to 1910 Packards Model 30 for me. Low idling engine like a ship engine. Great.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>Thomas Borchers<BR>Member of AACA # 004829<BR>HCCA and MAFCA