PhilWood54

here's a few shots of my template and the tools i used to cut the linoleum. Utility knife and some heavy shears should be all you need. I made the template of cardboard. The glue is typical flooring cement spread with a serrated edge spreader.

looking real good! I love the name "stripper pole" for the roof support. If you don't mind I'm going to borrow it. I get that these Campbell bodies were certainly spartan, they were work vehicles, after all. I took the liberty of covering my interior wheel wells with the same upholstery material that was used on my seats. Between the guys stepping on them to get to the rear seats and the dings from tire chains coming loose they were a mess.

I agree with your assessment, unless you have the proper equipment or access to it, milling joints one at a time and adjusting the height mechanically will be a big hassle. I've seen guys do it using a single cutter and adjusting the height using a cnc setup. The following pictures show my set-up, which admittedly is heavy industrial quality. The cutter itself, which I bought through an ad in the Woodie Times years ago, is a massive hunk of tool steel with a 1 1/4" bore, which I spin on a 7 1/2 HP 3 phase shaper with a sliding table. Even at that it's the scariest thing I've ever done in 47 years of woodwork. BTW, the cutter was supposedly made by Wisconsin Knife Works, an old, respected name in cutter knives, but when I asked them about it they disavowed any knowledge of it ever having come from their shop! That being said, it does work great and gives me clean, tight finger joints, even though after a session with it, I'm exhausted and have a few more gray hairs! Phil Stofanak

I used the Forbo desktop linoleum in black in my 1946 Ford 1-ton. Luckily I worked as a cabinetmaker and ran a pretty good sized shop with CNC machinery. I had my former employee drop my sheet on a CNC router with a 5' x 12' bed and had them run 1/16" grooves every 1/8". So if you know someone in the woodworking (specifically cabinet making where the need for machinery to handle sheet goods is great) and they're willing to run it for you, it really took maybe an hour of machine time with probably another hour of programming.

Here's my daily driver, as long as its dry and salt-free, since I'm in PA. !947 Pontiac 6 cyl. I've had it since 1975.

looks like the rear post was replaced at one time and mis cut where it meets the top rail. Rather than deal with fillers I would cut out the last three inches or so of the top rail, maybe a quarter of an inch deep and fit a piece in that will close up that gap. A multi tool or even a good sharp chisel should do it, you just need to be careful at the drip rail. Unfortunately your top rail is a single piece to I would just go to the next finger joint. You would essentially be skinning the existing top rail. Oversize it and use good titebond II or III glue. Good luck!

in the National Woodie Club roster from 2014 there are 61 listed. You are correct on the number produced. It was the first and only year that Chevrolet out sold Ford in wooden station wagons. The later NWC rosters do not break out lists by car.

Well, anyone with a Campbell Body on a truck has to figure out holding up the roof to avoid the dreaded swayback look. I've seen metal poles as well as roof ribs "sistered" with side ribs, but the ash pole to me was a better alternative. Bare wood floors never crossed my mind since I was going for an accurate restoration, support pole notwithstanding! To be honest, I'm not sure that the ship-lapped floors would close up enough to keep out water, smoke, exhaust and gas smells.

Here are a few interior shots of my Ford 1-ton. I assume that yours is a similar layout, making it a Club Wagon, in Campbell Misdstates parlance. Note the interior door panels and how they came out with the spar varnish. Note also the black linoleum that I used on the floor as a replacement for the black ribbed rubber flooring. I had it grooved on a CNC router to replicate the look.

I'm going to say that it must be a Campbell Body, as the rear posts and the belt line molding is the exact same profile as my 1946 Ford 1-ton woodie, see attached pictures. Looks like the ash is in real nice shape. As for the interior door panels, they are indeed masonite hardboard. Mine were all in good condition so I varnished them not knowing how it would come out. I was more than pleased with the look, very similar to tortoise shell! They are actually beautiful.

I should have added that my brackets are bolted through the roof. I put a solid piece of ash below the rood slats running between the cross ribs and screwed through the brackets into "T" nuts in the ash. It turned out that the front bracket started past the headliner, so I didn't have to deal with that. Now, granted, I'm not carrying anything of substance on it, but it has transported a pretty good size National Woodie Club sandwich board that I use at local shows with aplomb.

Hi Art, This is my 1947 Pontiac Woodie with a roof rack from a DeSoto Traveler. The stanchions are solid brass and plate fantastically, the pipes between the stanchions are 5/8" stainless steel piping that I bought at McMaster Carr. The original rack was too short for my car, so I elongated it with new side pipes. The wood slat base (which you probably will not need for a surfboard rack) is the original width metal base with longer ash strips, varnished. The stanchions are sometimes available on eBay or at flea markets, or possibly still in salvage yards. Phil

It's interesting that you have a pair with the same number. Most times the Campbell tag was placed on the rear window header (above the rear tailgate window) facing in towards the front of the car. One would see it while looking in the rear view mirror. Other Campbell locations were on the front door hinge stile (vertical piece with the hinges) usually on the passenger side. BTW-I have a set of two matching number Campbell tags as well, bought them from another car guy. My 1946 Ford 1-Ton had the rear header replaced at one time, so mine was missing.