Chipster

I have the engine out of my 1955 Custom Royal. 270 Super Red Ram Hemi! Going to have some machine work done. Anyone have any input on the procedure, and any knowledge of getting a proper rotating assembly balance? It doesn’t have an harmonic balancer, but just a front pulley, nor does it have a flex plate but the Torque converter bolts directly to the rear flange of the crank. I wonder how well it will balance with residual oil in the converter? Anyone have any issues with the machine shop getting a good rotating assembly balance with this torque converter and “Power flight” setup?

Selling a very nice Dodge oil pan. 1953 241 Hemi. It’s in really nice condition with only a few very small dings. Drain plug threads are in great shape. Doesn’t come with a plug. It’s painted silver. Does have some minor pitting on the bottom, see pictures. Also, look at engine sequence numbers in picture to confirm your application. Free shipping $450.00 Kerry Townsend, MT kyeroyan@msn.com

Thanks 61 Polara, good information..

Anyone have an idea of the original paint color/scheme on the Super Red Ram? The top half of the engine is obviously a silver color, however I’m unsure if the oil pan was also silver?

Very good information and detailed, thank you. Fortunately I have all the parts, had just removed them. It turns very nicely and is free. The problem was that the Bimetallic spring was week and not able to close the valve fully when cold. I tried tightening a bit and made it worse by playing with it. After some research I believe I tracked down the correct spring, I hope. I should of left it alone as it worked fine enough. I actually had the manifold off to replace just the heat tube inside the manifold..was cracked.

Looking for some information on acquiring a new heat riser spring for my 1955 Dodge Custom Royal with the Super Red Ram. 270 Hemi. The poly 270 looks to be different a different set up. Either a new spring or if someone has used a spring from a different model or even a make and model..

Still have this heat riser?

Looking for a exhaust manifold heat control valve (Heat riser) spring for a 1955 270 Hemi. Custom Royal, Super Red Ram.. I see some after market springs for the six but haven’t seen one for the V8.

Do you still have this part?

Removing the Right exhaust manifold to work on the heat riser and “Stove” tube. Pulled the front bottom bolt of the manifold and it poured coolant out. Im assuming some of the bolt/studs go into the water jackets? Anyone can confirm this?

I noticed a combo of both riveted and bonded, shoes. I’m thinking the fronts were bonded. In the day it was a common practice but I’ve not seen one of those shoe machines in many moons. Probably a museum piece now.

Great info, I missed it somehow till today. Another words, the 1” shaft on the lathe is just to big for the 11” drum. We cut down or modified the smallest cones taper to zero. It fit but was really close. I see an 11/16 spindle. Assuming that would have worked really well, as long as the lathe can use the smaller spindle.

Talking with the parts guy I found that they do indeed sell shorter brake cyl to shoe rods/pins. Mopar used the same rod for many models and years. My only thought is that the new Cylinders purchased are designed for other years or applications and on my application it wont work with the stock pins. However he is sending me the shorter pins. Thanks for all the help.

DFEENEY, Ya, the major adjustment are back to the factory settings which set’s the shoes all the way in.( Arrows pointing at each other) Also the minor adjustments are all the way in, making the shoes at their smallest dia possible.

Zeke, I’ll look at that a bit further. Good stuff, thanks for the input.

Bloo, Thats what I’m a wondering about also. I did hear about wheel cyl problems and different pin lengths to fit certain cylinders. Would have liked to rebuild my original but the rust.. I’m thinking getting the gauge on then and getting it concentric to the C/L. Once it’s squared up I can confirm whether the new cyl and old pin lengths will work. Thanks for the input!

Guys, My 1955 Dodge Custom Royal hasn’t been on the road since 1990, all the brakes were locked up and needing a complete overhaul. After cleaning and reinstalling all, backing plates, new shoes, brake cylinders, etc.. Wondering why I can’t seem to get the drums back on? I under the concept of centering the shoes to the axle. I haven’t placed the Ammco 1750 on yet but everything is backed off and should be at its least amount of shoe diameter. Major adjustment arrows are lined up correctly and minors are backed all the back. Brake drums have been turned. I have seen a post about different Wheel cyl piston rod length's?? Wondering, I’m using my old slotted rods with new aftermarket cyl’s from one of the main vintage mopar parts companies. Anyone else experience this?

Yes, I understand there is a 11/16 spindle also. I bet using this spindle size instead of the standard 1” wouldn’t have had an issue.

Anyone know how they used to turn the rear drums on a 19955 Dodge or other Mopars on the brake lathe? The rear drums obviously have the tapered hole for the axle shaft to fit through. Since the outboard (Smallest ofthe tapered portion) hole is just over one inch, finding a cone that fits the ID of the drum isn’t something available, when trying to mount it on the 1” brake lathe shaft. There must have been a Chrysler service kit that adapted these to the brake lathe. Any info or reference to literature would be great. Thanks,

Anyone know how they used to turn the rear drums on a 19955 Dodge or other Mopars on the brake lathe? The rear drums obviously have the tapered hole for the axle shaft to fit through. Since the outboard (Smallest of the tapered portion) hole is just over one inch, finding a cone that fits the ID of the drum isn’t something available, when trying to mount it on the 1” brake lathe shaft. There must have been a Chrysler service kit that adapted these to the brake lathe. Any info or reference to literature would be great. Thanks, Kerry