IFDPete
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Posts posted by IFDPete
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Sounds like a $14 job to me Brian.
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I had a cool thing happen yesterday that I thought the Buick PreWar gang would appreciate.
I was searching for a part number in my 1919 / 1920 Buick Parts Catalog when this invoice fell out of it. It is dated September 23, 1924. Mr. William Bauer paid $16.60 total for his Buick's clutch replacement in Minnesota. $7.00 of that was for labor.
Too bad the invoice does not specify the year or model of Mr. Bauer's Buick.
Notice the phone number of Lloyd-Scott Auto Co. Give them a call if you need clutch work. Their prices seem reasonable. 😆
@Morgan Wright made a video of his clutch work on his 1917 Buick.
Interesting to see what the value of all that work was.
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@29StudiePrez contact Roger McGinnis at roger.mcginnis@outlook.com. I will send you a PM with his phone number as I do not know if he would want it posted here. See below for the tube he made me.
Water Tube for 1921 Buick Model 46 - 4 Passenger Coupe - Made by Roger McGinnis in 2023
Original rusted out tube and new copper tube side by side. Also see that my original tube from my highly original car was plated - not painted black. Plating still there at the rear curve on right side of picture.
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Maybe primed for wartime blackout car??? But why chrome shields?
Didn't 1941 model trim and design carry throughout the war years. GM did make cars for the armed forces. Maybe this trim is for a gray Navy car.
Just a guess. Pete J.
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Mary Elizabeth - Thank you for posting this. My condolences to you on the loss of your Mom last year.
Terry - Here's hoping for a full and speedy recovery. May you be up on your feet soon and enjoying your old cars this spring. I appreciate all the advice and help you have given me over the last couple years. Pete
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No room for a lift in my garage so I bought a used a Quick Jack system and lifted my 1949 Super Sedan (Dynaflow) up about 8 years ago to replace my torque ball seal. The project went well and took me some time. I was pleased with the Quick Jack giving me a safe lift and good room to work. Also that I had free space between the lift rails to work and roll with a creeper. Pulled the rear axle off the car and also replaced the original rear differential (4.45) for a 3.4x from a 53 Buick. It dropped my engine rpm about 25% for better highway cruising and MPG.
Prior to that lift system purchase I would lift the car up on 4 jack stands to work underneath. Getting it up on the first two stands was easy - but lifting the other end up for jack stands 3 and 4 always made me wary and nervous. The Quick Jack is indeed quick... and safe.
As far as the seal goes...The leak is better (slower) but mine still leaks so I probably did something wrong. I have not gotten around to taking it apart and trying again. I just empty the Cool Whip cup that sits under it about every 2 or 3 months.
I am thinking that Dynaflow refers to the flow of trans fluid into the cup or on the floor.
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4 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
, if making money and getting a profit out of it is the goal, I'd recommend about thirty other things to buy before an antique car.
Non concours restored Prewar cars seem to be stagnant or declining in value. Trucks, restomods, 60s and 70s muscle seem to be where the money is these days. If the car will be an investment and you want to make money those are the types of vehicles you should shop for.
If profit is not the motivation and you like to own a different car that you won't see another of at a show the Buick or the LaSalle would be great to own...as long as they are indeed complete. LaSalle parts...not so easy to find. Buick parts probably a little easier- and the parts car will help tremendously. Prewar parts are getting tougher to source. Prewar swaps are dominated by Ford Model T and A parts....which makes sense, Ford made millions of cars versus the thousands of other manufacturers. You will have to hunt for Buick or LaSalle.
Only 365 Buicks of that model means a very rare car indeed. You might never see another in your lifetime. Mechanical parts will be easier to find than body parts I am betting.
Do you like a project and want to spend time getting these cars running? Is working on old cars a hobby for you and do you find fun in the challenge and expense of reviving an old car? Or are the cars an investment to make a profit on? You may not make any money on these cars as Prewar car revival/restoration can be expensive.
Some folks spend money on golf, a boat, a lake house, vacations, etc. The costs of reviving an old car are part of my hobby and I don't play golf, boat, or own a lake house. It's not about profit for me..it's fun and job de-stressing wrenching out in the barn. Also, the wife knows where to find me 😆.
All in all ...do what makes you happy and either buy one or pass based on your motivation and interests. Good luck. Pete
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Is Fuel Filter clogged? Sounds to me like a restricted fuel flow issue. Had similar problems on my 49 Super and it was just a clogged fuel filter. Try a new filter. If the filter is stone try removing it and giving it a good cleaning. Is there a screen in the fuel pump that needs cleaning? My 49 has a screen in the pump - not sure about 1938 fuel pumps. Is there a screen in the carburetor at the fuel line entry that is clogged?
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Joel -
10 Inch Tiltray on Ebay right now $29.99......Picture shows ruler on lens @ 10 inches. Hope you get it.
Fishing around on Ebay for 10" Tilt Ray Lens turns up a few different sellers and lenses - not just the one I referenced above. Many old car hobbyists hate Ebay for what it has done to the swap meets but it can be a convenient way to search and find what you are looking for in the old car parts world. Good luck - Pete
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No worries David...I appreciate you taking the time to comment with your idea.
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1 hour ago, David Zitzmann said:
Just a thought... on 30s Cadillac engines you put the rod up from the bottom then put the piston on, push wrist pin through, locks, then push in in from top down to journal.
@David Zitzmann David - I appreciate your idea... however the 21 Buick has a Jughead engine. No removable head on the cylinder block to work anything through the top. There are good pictures of the cylinder block on the bottom of page 2 of this thread. Pete
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New Battery Box Made
Recently had some surgery and was limited in what I was able to lift as I healed. I needed a lightweight project to keep me busy while I was home recovering. I still need to put the last coat of paint on the cylinder block so I could start getting the engine together....but too heavy to move and get painted.
I spent the last couple weeks working sporadically in the barn to recreate a battery box to replace my original rusted out unit. Not as neat and tidy as the one made by @edinmass and posted above... but I don't think it is half bad for a guy who had never worked in bending and welding metal and has limited tools for this project. Ed's work motivated me to create and gave me something to do while I was off work.
3" Air Cut Off Tool, Vise, Mallets, Hammers, Grinder, Flux core wire welder, Bench Grinder, Long bolts to mallet bend the hanging tabs around.
Basically I had to get creative with tools because I did not want to buy special metal working tools. Measure, remeasure, remeasure again, cut, bend, test fit, remeasure, re-bend and finagle, test fit, etc - weld, paint. You get the idea. It probably took a lot longer than it took Ed to make but I don't mind the effort of a creative solution and I am satisfied with the results. It's not perfect, but I tried to do a quality job with the limited skills I have. If I can eventually drive it around town reliably, and to a local show, I will be thrilled. If it looks good doing that.. well great.
I took pictures of the process and test fit things in the car as I went. You will notice that my hanging tabs do not look beautifully rounded and even. They are equal length but each is bent slightly differently to get the empty box to hang level and with equal contact on the car's frame brackets.
16 gauge steel on the endcaps and 22 gauge steel in the middle, same as the original. I had a rusty & painted 22 gauge steel tray in the shop scrap pile that I cut to size and sandblasted clean. You may see some pitting in the center steel because of that - but I like it, it adds patina under the new paint. The 16 gauge end steel was new.
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Too bad. Makes me sick to see such damage to an original car 🤕. All the best to the owner. I hope they can find the parts to get it patched up and back on the road 🛣️.
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Radiator is located in Dearborn Heights, Michigan area.
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Crankcase Painted as original
After cleaning the crankcase I saw traces of the original green paint on it. I thought I would repaint it prior to putting the engine together as the weather here in Indiana this late December has been abnormally warm - in the 50's. Once the paint has cured I will get started on getting the engine back together.
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Brian -
Are you flashing the timing gun on the flywheel at the top viewing hole or have you made a more convenient mark on the engine somewhere else? What mark are you using as your standard? Have you posted a thread on your timing procedure that we can read through? Thanks - Pete
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Just looked it up - This car is one of 6025 23-4-38's made by Buick that year. Not many survivors I would bet - and certainly not in such nice condition.
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1938 Remanufactured Clutch Disc on Ebay Now - Ready to go -
Obviously I have nothing to do on Friday after thanksgiving...
Not for you as per your post your clutch is being rebuilt - however, for others reading this post and in need of a clutch disc - here is one posted on Ebay - $100 OBO. Seems like a good buy if they are as rare as you say:
Hopefully someone needs this - Pete
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You have a great car to work on. Beautiful inside and out.
Check with French Lake Auto in Minnesota on rear end and clutch core. Classic car junk yard. They shipped me a lower ratio 3.4x rear gear pumpkin from a 53 Buick that fit my 1949 replacing a 4.4x. Not sure what years are compatible with yours. My engine rpm down 25%. Just had to get a Speedometer ratio adapter to attach to the transmission for accurate speed and odometer. Can now go highway speeds without my straight 8 screaming. Gas mileage up from 12 or 13 mpg to 16. Only down side....my Dynaslow car went from 0 to 60 in 27 seconds with the old 4.4 gears ..now 0 to 60 in 32 with the 3.4x. So I am always running later than before for ice cream, errands, and when the wife wants me to just get home....but I get to enjoy the ride in my time capsule a little longer.
Other places to call or search from on web...
Buds Auto salvage Arkansas
Desert Valley Auto Parts Arizona
CTC Auto Ranch Texas
CTC currently shows three 1938 parts cars on their website to strip parts from.
www.ctcautoranch.com/Parts Cars/Buick/1958 and Back/1958 and Back Sub-Pages/1958 and Back.html
Happy hunting. Pete
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Brian - thanks for the heads up on this issue. I looked at mine and all appears Ok. I appreciate all that I am learning about this car and the knowledge shared by those who know on this forum. As I continue the work the get my car running I am sure to have more questions. Good luck with your repairs. Pete
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Brian - I am new to these early Buicks. Appreciate the heads up and detail photo of the problem. However, being new I could use some instruction / photos of where / what a brake reaction arm is on the car. Thanks - Pete
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I saw that 1910 Buick being towed in by the Stanley. The 1926 Buick (2 photos up) in the HPOF rows was awesome. I spoke to the owner...same family since new !
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An alternative to using a stocking or a Gano filter is a product called a TEFBA filter. I stumbled on these about 10 years ago. I have one installed on my 1949 Buick Super and I have purchased one for when I put my 1921 Buick engine back together. They install in the upper radiator hose and catch particles before coolant enters the radiator. They have a screw on cap on top and the screen is easy to lift out and clean. I also have circular donut magnet dropped in it that fits around the center pole to hold onto contaminants. TEFBA filters are made in Australia. They come in different sizes 1 1/4", 1 1/2" etc. After using this product on my 49 for the last 10 years I highly recommend them. I have purchased them off of Ebay but you can find them other places on the internet. Easy to install and clean out and they get the job done. Only downside is that they need to be installed level or only at a slight incline and also at, or above, the highest coolant level (near the top of the radiator). That way when you open it coolant doesn't just run out from the top. First two pics are the install on my 49 Super.
Buick Clutch Replacement in 1924 - How Much?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
I looked up the address on Google Maps. Now an empty lot. Building is long gone.