3rdowner

Thank you Oldtech and Ben. I drive the car daily and will check the switch tomorrow. On a side note, and note germane to this topic, I’m still trying to figured t how to change the passenger lights located on the back of the front seat (it’s a convertible). Any hints? I have thought of just pulling on the outer bezel, but I have learned that using brute force can be expensive:-)

Good day all. My 1941 Buick Fireball in-line 8 has started flawlessly since purchase 4 years ago. It is fair to say the restoration prior to my ownership was done correctly. Now for the issue: when I press down on the pedal, on occasion, there is no noise/response. At other times the action hesitates. Both of these situations are new. I suspect that I may have damaged something by what I call a “soft shoe” attempt at starting the car. I did press on the gas/starter a couple of times when the car was running (it is so quiet). Last, I suspect that I may have compromised the contacts surfaces on the starter relay. I’m thinking of checking the gap and cleaning the contacts with a piece on emery cloth. However, I ALWAYS seek the input of those (y’all) in the know. Dave

This might be the most basic question ever posted, but it goes: How does the damper valve work on a Buick compound carburetor (circa 1941)? I read somewhere (and now I can not locate) that the counter weight should move freely. Mine “sticks” when rotated clockwise while viewing from passenger side. I assume that it is actuated by demand air flow, but this is a guess, which is something I avoid. Any knowledge on this feature would be appreciated.

My rear seat (passenger) interior lights do not work. I am having a tough time finding any information about changing the lights (or even accessing the lights to check them), location of the fuse (or if there is one) and turning on the lights manually (both rear doors have spring-loaded “door open” switches but this model did I not come with a passenger light switch). The front seat does appear to have a removable back cushion, but I have learned to avoid “tearing into” interior assemblies as to avoid breaking the one component which can never be replaced! Any and all input is welcome. PS: I have every OE shop manual Buick published, no info on subject.

PS: I forgot to take my alignment specs to the shop so I called the folks a Bob's Automobilia (sp?) and they sent specs via text message. Thanks you to the folks at Bob's, I will always contact them first when seeking parts. Dave

Hello all readers. Cutting to the chase: I had by car aligned yesterday and the technician noted that my King Pins are sloppy and should be serviced. I referred to my OEM shop manual and did not se any means to adjust same. Seeking advice (i.e., replace, adjust, etc.)? As always, thanks in advance, the wealth of knowledge on the forum is greatly appreciated.

Closing the loop: Thanks all for the keen insight on all potential issues for my erratic temp gauge on my 41 Buick 50C. I changed the thermostat, replacing it with a 160 F unit, and the needle is rock solid in thre middle. I ran a quick test on the old thermostat as per the attached pictures. The pictures came from a video, but the video is too large to post. Bottom line: the thermostat was closed at 180 F, began to “cracked” at 200 F and was open at 208 F (all approximates, but my cooking thermometer is within 2 degrees F at 200 by eye when compared to a calibrated lab Mercury thermometer). So, basically the old thermostat is toast. Last, and referencing Grimy’s in put (thank you), I flushed the block (actually pretty clean) and the heater core (not clean at all). PS: I think I made a mistake (correctable) with respect to gasoline over the weekend. I put non-ethanol gas in (good) but it was 94 octane (bad). My engine runs a bit rough, sounds like a slight miss. Could this be due to the octane?

All, I do have an app that allows my to transmit my iPhone camera to my iPad and it is like having a second set of eyes when working on problem requiring being in two places at the same time. I use it for diagnosing brake lights, watching the dashboard gauges while working under the car or under the hood. As for the Lesdixia, my favorite saying is "Dyslexics of the world untie!" PS: on a previous post regarding the "bouncing needle" on my thermoset, opened at 200 F. I filmed the setup and test and will post on the related chat page.

Many great suggestions, but Grimy takes-the-cake with the method of hanging upside down! I laughed because it's true, with the addition of safety goggles (and yes, I wear bifocals, never could adjust to progressives). I wasn't always so careful in my youth, however, I lost 50% of my vision in my dominate eye (right) do to trauma induced glaucoma, causing open-angle glaucoma (at age 60). Long story short: I inadvertently stepped on my ceiling-retraceable air hose causing it to spool/retract. I heard the noise from across the garage and turned just in time to catch the hose with the right eye. Also, TerryB, my apology for missing the "s" in 1940's, no harm, no foul. To all, I struggle with writing and reading due to dyslexia, the kind of dyslexia resulting in flunking out of high school. I have overcome the issue, to an extent and am always open to discuss the subject as it is near and dear to both me and my wife (she is also clinically diagnosed with Dyslexia). As a summary for any that are curious, dyslexics don't sound-out words with phonetics, we memorize words as pictures. That's why it takes dyslexics so long to master reading and other related subjects. There are "special" books for dyslexics which are simply common fonts and spacing for quick word recognition. The good news: dyslexics often development a photographic memory which results in great cerebral spatial perception (geometry, art, working with one's hands, etc.) and learn kinesthetically in the garage with tools!). Must run to the garage now, ya'll gave me way-too-much homework, must get grounded (ok, so dyslexia does not equal humorist). PS: Ben, trini, et. al., if it is a ground issue, lunch is on me if you are ever in Norther Michigan!

Grimy, Great input! Yes, it is an ammeter (measuring current), reporting out voltage based on the current draw! I must admit to all reading this post: I haven't a car in my collection newer than 1926. These modern cars (1931 and later) are new to me. however, even those with "voltage meters" on the dash are actually displaying current drop across the circuit. Again, good catch, and I will look into the regulator. I am curious as to the response/transient time of the gauge, it may be reacting to the historisis (sp?) of the regulator rather than the voltage/current available. Last (almost), and not least, thanks all for pulling me "out of the weeds" when chasing down issues. I tend to go to the bottom of the fault tree rather than focusing on the top/basics. I will be researching the best method of assessing a regulator. However, in actuality, I should just buy a new regulator as my time is worth something (but let's face it, we are all in for the adventure as much as the solution. We are problem solvers, which doesn't work for us when we are simply suppose to listen and not solve). Peace all, and please read "Adam Smith's Wealth of Nations" (audio book is best, on a commute or daily task-drive), Our country is so-lost in the weeds of "economics-ignorance". And please, do not read into my request any party affiliation. The structure, conduct and accountability Smith talks about are oddly common among all political systems. It would make a great Netflix series!!! (Rats, I don't have a TV!). Dave

TerryB, What makes you think it's a 1940?

Whether you think you can, or you think you can't-you're right.-Henry Ford

Hi all. Yes, another “bouncing needle issue”, however, this one is common, and even expected (referring to my last post regarding a bouncing temperature needle). I understand the battery-generator-regulator circuit and the related Thevenin and Norton values across any of the lighting circuits, however, my needle jumps like a Jack Russell Terrier in beat with the turn signals. The needle swings between + ¾ and -1/4 like a windshield wiper. Q’s: Is this typical? Is there a way to stabilize or damp the drain in energy? My first thought is to place a capacitor in the circuit with a dead-short protector. With that said, what is the collective advice on this subject?

Hi Grimy, thanks for the suggestion, I will filter my next project. However, I my have misrepresented the condition of this car. I bought the car from Mike Stowe, owner of Great Lakes Motors, a well know restorer and collector of “mostly” American cars. The car has been completely restored, frame-up. The radiator, hoses et. al., are new. Mike drove it once a week to breakfast within our small town (Boyne City). The rust color I spoke of was on the thermostat, but it was not caked-on, just discolored. I will drain the system this weekend, simply for investigative reasons, no issue at this point. As for the stocking, I do have some stainless steal mesh ranging from 10 um to 80 um I use a pre-filter on a well-pump for our home (off the grid). You have encouraged me to make a filter between the goose neck and the radiator. It will be removable, but it is so easy to switch-out the return radiator hose that it makes total sense. I did check the fluid color today, bright green no signs of contamination. Last, and not at all least, the IR temp gun (using emissivity) indicated balanced temp across the entire block. I did not write it down, but 150 F was the basic mean with little more than 2 degrees delta. When I figure out how to post pictures, I will do so!

Update: I could not wait to test the cooling system, so I took the car for an hour drive at speeds of up to 70 MPH. The temperature gauge stayed-put at the midpoint without fluctuation. This is good, but I am confident that the collective experience of this forum know not to get excited on an “n” of 1. I will keep all updated. My next post should include I.R. readings of the block, front-to-back so as to eliminate the “cylinder #8” issues brought-up on this post. However, as a retired engineer (as of last month) and having founded and ran an engineering firm in the R&D and Manufacturing of organ transporters and other thermal-dependent devices, I must agree with ply33, the temp gauge moves with pressure/temperature changes (PV=NrT), and the change in pressure is due to an increase in temperature. Also, with a “stuck” thermostat, the potential for the coolant to “flash” to steam at the #8 cylinder and being the furthest from the point of cooling point (radiator) it is obvious why the boys and girls at GMI (the validation point for Buick in the 1930’s/1940’s), placed the sensor at the hottest point on the cooling jacket. With all that said, it is still a data point of 1, and as we have all witnessed in the news over the past year, liars figure and figures lie (a mis-quote of Mark Twains “Figures don’t lie, but liars figure”). Thanks again all, I hope to help others with issues in return. PS: Gas gauge is the next thing to fix, but it has been isolated to the send-unit. I have never enjoyed removing gas tanks, it’s a job best done on a lift. And for some background, my diagnosis found the gas gauge reads “FULL” with the send wire disconnected and “1/8” when grounded, the same state it reads when connected and ignition on.