drovak

My friend took the '31 camshaft to an engine shop to have the bad journal ground down. They didn't cut all the way down to get rid of all of the chisel marks, but they insist that it'll be fine as long as they aren't above the journal surface. They also found the camshaft was bent, so they straightened it out as well. I've decided to keep the '32 camshaft as a backup plan for now. Now that we have the camshaft back, another friend volunteered to make me five new bearings. The sixth bearing is staying in the engine as it would require dropping the engine to remove. In the meantime, I'm working on my mounting plate for the remote oil filter. It will mount where the original filter would've been, but offset as to not interfere with the starter. I prefer it vertical so that when I change the filter, it should be less messy...maybe. It should also require less copper pipe.

If you have different loads on the 6V tap and 12V tap, you will not be draining the loads equally. You will have all of the current of the 12V load going through both batteries, but the 6V load will only require current through the single battery providing the voltage for the 6V loads. Folks with lithium ion batteries deal with this all the time. It requires a fancy setup to ensure the cells are properly balanced. But different battery chemistries may be more or less susceptible to imbalance.

I was referring to electrical balancing of the cells, rather than the mechanical consideration.

I would be concerned that there's nothing to balance the batteries, but maybe it doesn't matter so much with lead acid.

It's yours if you want to make an offer. It has been repaired before at the flange but it looks like it's holding fine. Haven't taken it off the head yet. I was thinking about holding onto those, but if you need them, make an offer!

Yep. No water manifold or trim rings, I'm afraid.

I should add that I'm time limited on how long I can store this parts car, so if you are remotely interested in getting something, please speak up now!

I have various parts from a 1932 Model 87 that are available in north Alabama. No serious offer will be refused! I may be willing to ship some components, but some will be local pickup only. Check out the photos for what's there.

I'd be very sure the spring constant is correct. If it's too strong, it won't do much of anything. Had some goo in the spring area as seen in the photo for the '31, but not too much in the pan. Definitely not like the prehistoric dino goo in the '32 oil pan. But the spring certainly sits in oil that could turn to goo eventually as that's not the usual path for oil to take.

Of course! Once you drop the oil pan and remove the pickup screen and tube, you have access to the valve and spring.

In both my '31 and '32 parts car, the oil pump bypass valve spring was corroded and not doing much good. For those still operating with an oil heat exchanger, this spring and plunger should be installed in case the oil is too cold and viscous to flow through the heat exchanger at normal flow rates. For those that have bypassed the heat exchanger with an external loop, this valve and spring should not be necessary and could be left in or removed. For those that have bypassed it with simply capping off the block, it would be wise to remove the valve and spring altogether. For those that plan to put a full flow oil filter in this circuit instead, having this valve operational may be a good thing in case the filter gets too clogged. Rather than the filter bursting and contaminating things down stream, the valve can bleed off some pressure and bypass the filter—just like modern cars, as I understand it. Anyways, I found what I believe are the appropriate springs at Lee Spring (LC 035EE 17S, 2.5 lb/in). I had to order extras lest I pay a hefty surcharge for my order, so I'm happy to sell my two extra stainless springs for $8 each plus shipping. I also have the music wire version (not stainless, LC 035EE 17M, 3 lb/in) which I don't anticipate using anytime soon, but I have two of those extra as well. For further clarification, this is for part number 1249500 in the master parts list. I have no idea what was used after 1932, if anything.

These are both for Series 80 and 90.

Meant to provide this sooner, but life got in the way. Sorry for the crappy drawing. The '32 numbers should be pretty accurate. My '31 rod had one end brazed before (which I think led to the failure of the fuel pump arm), so I filed it back down until I saw steel again. Hence, the length may be slightly different from factory. However, it's been working fine in my car. I also recall seeing an original Buick drawing of the '31 rod indicating the groove cut in one end. I guess that was to mark which end ought to ride against the camshaft—not that it seems like it would matter much except maybe if it's been worn in a bit. Speaking of, obviously at some point, the '32 rod decided to stop rotating, so there was some appreciable wear from the cam (and equally so on the other end from the fuel pump). At least, my understanding was that by putting the rod slightly off-center from the eccentric on the camshaft, it would induce a little spinning action for the rod.

The only issue I have had so far with my '31 gasket set was the fuel pump gasket. I just made my own instead.

Easier said than done! The push rod on the '32 cannot be extracted with the engine bolted to the frame. I do plan to eventually separate the two from each other, but no timeline on that yet. However, I believe the ends of the rod are identical. The '31 is just one diameter, whereas this '32 uses a larger surface to prevent as much wear. It also has three times the travel as the '31. I will still try to get measurements at some point.

You bet! Mine has been worked on previously, but I will show them side by side regardless.

The '31 and '32 Series 80 use different push rods and fuel pumps.

Yes, really! I will try to take it out to get measurements tonight or tomorrow evening.

I can likely pull the one out of the '32 Series 80 block I'm working on this week.

I figure if I put a full-flow spin-on filter that takes the place of the oil cooler, I shouldn't affect the limited flow going to the head—save for the fact that my car, along with several others I've seen, had their original filters bypassed entirely. But hopefully, the oil filter isn't providing much of any flow restriction—when it's clean, anyways. I'd plan to use this, mounted on a bracket that bolts onto the block in the same spot, basically: https://www.amazon.com/Derale-15708-Remote-Filter-Mount/dp/B004XONTFW/ref=asc_df_B004XONTFW Thank you, Mario! I'm just concerned that 0.004" to 0.006" clearance that I'm measuring with the '32 cam and bearings is simply too much and will require new bearings. Unfortunately, I don't think the '32 pump will bolt on to a '31 block. Also, the construction of the block to support the push rod for the fuel pump is quite different between the '31 and '32, far as I can see. They expanded the diameter of the end of the rod that rides against the camshaft eccentric, presumably to minimize wear. I can certainly see a difference between the wear on my '31 eccentric versus the '32.