C-Lamb
-
Posts
127 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by C-Lamb
-
-
Retuning to the torque ball topic... how do I know when it's bad?
-
1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Looking good C-Lamb.
You will PROBABLY find the screen on the oil pump pickup float is at least partially plugged. 35# at or above 35 mph is spec. Any thing above 0 at idle is adequate.
From experience, an overdrive will be more satisfying, in my opinion. I did a later gear set [ 3.36 ] in my 50. Impractical?? You bet. But nice.
Ben
I'm not convinced that an overdrive is much easier to find or install than a 3.6 rear end! It probably is, but they seem pretty scarce and complex to work into the driveline.
-
Good point '39. I need to replace basically everything rubber - window trim down to mounts. I'll start looking at those, it's something I can do w/o too much disassembly I hope.
I think I'm going to work on the oil pump next - pressure is pretty low at hot idle.
I also kinda want to get the dash off so I can clean up the wiring a bit, it's hard looking up from underneath to do much. In addition to sorting out lights, I need to figure out why the speedometer is disconnected and and if I can restore the fan to functional.
I probably have to deal with the torque ball soon, but I'm trying to ignore it as I suspect it's not something I can R&R over a few evenings or a weekend, even if I could get parts/rebuild kit. For longer trips, really would like an overdrive or new rear end, but that all seems impractical.
-
Here's a video to me driving off: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MEustnztnmH4KSut5
Thanks for the support!
-
1
-
-
-
-
-
Well, it's been awhile since I updated this thread, lots of life in the way in 2023 and 2024. Since then I've gotten stuff done, but it's been slow:
- Shocks rebuilt, painted, and installed.
- Control arms and brake backer plate powder coated
- Front end of frame etc. cleaned and painted.
- Reassembled and lubbed up.
- Changed transmission fluid.
- Changed diff fluid.
- Filled steering gear.
- Bled brakes.
Today drove it 4mi each way to town for a show, no issues, but definitely an interesting drive. Hard to believe it would get to 60mph without being really wound up. Haven't addressed the torque ball yet. Seems like there's a lot of play in the drive line as you shift from accelerating to decellerating. Definitely need to deal with the rear shocks soon and seems like one of the clutch bearing is noisy. Goal is to get drivability to where it feels reliable for trips of 30 miles or so.
I'll try to start adding a few pictures now.
-
2
-
Thanks everyone, been busy and don't get email notifications... gotta fix that. Really appreciate all the responses. I eventually noticed I had a good picture of the front wheel assembly and realized it was upside down.
I have the felt dust shields but they're a bit rough, I should order replacements!
One more question - I have several of these washers. I believe at least one goes on the bolt holding the lower control arm to spindle assembly - do both go there or somewhere else?
Getting the springs compressed and the spindle bolted in has been a real challenge. I bought an inner spring compressor but the plates that slide in are too thick to fit between the spring layers
Thanks again for all the help..
Chris
-
Looking at the manual for something else... I think it is just upside down.
-
Good point... so use to replying to my original thread...
1939 Century
-
1
-
-
Finally putting my front end together. Thought it would be a 4 week break back in Jan 2023,but more like 18months in the end so I forgot more than planned...
Looked on line for diagrams and pics and haven't found it, even ordered master parts catalog hoping for a diagram...
Question-where does this metal shield go? Can't see it in my pictured and I can't see how to avoid problematic interference with the cylinder. I must be missing something stupid.
Thanks!
-
Any luck, I'm reassembling mine and it seems a bit tricky to align things.
I've replaced the rivets but not confident I'm not messing something up....
-
1
-
-
Front end disassembled, shocks sent off to Apple, we'll see what happens next.
New stabilizer bar links in hand via e-bay. Looks like many modern cars use the same part?
As others have noted, stabilizer to frame bushing are welded up - mine seem sufficient, so I guess I'll work with those for now.
Lower control arms removed, so cleaning those and related parts is the next challenge, hopefully back together in a few weeks... we'll see.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:
The seals, parts AO on the diagram from pg 126-A of the Master Parts Book, will probably be the hardest to find. The front seal group # 5.469 1308321 and the rear # 5.469 1308322. In the past, some have found suitable seals, if anyone knows of suitable seals, please share that information.
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm afraid of, it's a literal can of worms filled with hard to find parts. For now, I think I'll just try to seal it up to keep dirt out, once I finish the front stabilizer link replacement (and maybe bushings if I can find them, first set doesn't seem quite right).
And thank you for the great pointers and part numbers!!
-
On 12/13/2022 at 11:09 PM, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:
"No way to replace the boot w/out dropping the axle etc?" I once asked the late Earl Beauchamp (AKA Dynaflash8) this same question. He said the "easiest" way is to disconnect the rear shock links, torque tube bolts, torque ball bolts, and brake lines then ratchet back the axel. Earl gave me the following advice, based on the pic below of my split torque ball boot: "But, that said, if it is like that on the outside, it's probably steel to steel on the inside and you might actually need that new inner torque ball. Matter of fact the way the outside looks you may even need the outer torque ball. You don't want there to be any scoring on either of the steel parts. READ THE BOOKS FIRST. That front shaft has to fall slowly, repeat slowly after it's all put back together."
If it were my car, I'd attempt a patch to the boot as you suggested, AND start looking now for the driveline parts you may need someday. Shims and boot are available new. NOS torque balls, universal joints, Hyatt bearing assemblies, and seals, these parts do come up for sale occasionally.
Any suggestions if I should fill the boot with grease or anything like that, or just try to close it up to keep the dirt out?
-
On 2/5/2022 at 7:10 PM, C-Lamb said:
Still proceeding slowly cleaning and tweaking and figuring things out. Have weak spark on cylinders 1&2 so will go ahead and change out my wires, points, and condenser since I have them. Will put in the new brake lines on as well soon. Will also pull the valve cover shortly and check on valves and oiling.
Good news is, starts easily and runs every time even in the cold. I've gone to all incandescent bulbs in the back, none of the LEDs were as bright and several didn't fit in the (replacement) sockets (didn't even make consistent contact).
In the meantime, I went ahead and got a picture of the block number: J3604223 and the body number: 3464 (Model 61, Trim #709, Paint #530).
That block number seems to be in the right range, but there's no way that the first digit is a '6' or 'b'. See the picture below. Thanks for any input.
By the way, when looking at this again, it's not a "J", it's a 'b' shaped 6, just like the other one. The rust or something makes it look like a J, but when you look just slightly more closely, you can see the 'b' clearly. Doh! Doesn't match the number on the frame, but I don't know that it should?
-
On 12/7/2022 at 7:45 PM, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:
In reference to this: "Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/" I relined 8 torque balls. I bought the mold and instructions from the elderly gentleman that used to reline them for Bob's. One went to a friend and Bob's bought the rest.
Thanks Mark, that was my understanding of the process. That's a bunch of 80 year old fasteners to get apart and replace - I'm sure there will be some part of unobtainium mixed in there too. And once I get that far, I should probably drop the transmission and clean it, check the clutch system out and replace the rear main seal... at which point I will have converted my running / driving vehicle to a kit, which I'm trying to avoid by tackling small projects.
Since mine wasn't vibrating noticeably yet, is there anything I can do given condition of my boot to protect it, like packing with grease and patching with a piece of inner tube? No way to replace the boot w/out dropping the axle etc? I'll contact Bob's and see what the have. I think Steele Rubber had some too.
Looks like Bob's still has them $450 including $150 core charge.
-
On 12/7/2022 at 7:45 PM, markewebb '39 Buick Team said:
In reference to this: "Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/" I relined 8 torque balls. I bought the mold and instructions from the elderly gentleman that used to reline them for Bob's. One went to a friend and Bob's bought the rest.
Thanks Mark, that was my understanding of the process. That's a bunch of 80 year old fasteners to get apart and replace - I'm sure there will be some part of unobtainium mixed in there too. And once I get that far, I should probably drop the transmission and clean it, check the clutch system out and replace the rear main seal... at which point I will have converted my running / driving vehicle to a kit, which I'm trying to avoid by tackling small projects.
Since mine wasn't vibrating noticeably yet, is there anything I can do given condition of my boot to protect it, like packing with grease and patching with a piece of inner tube? No way to replace the boot w/out dropping the axle etc? I'll contact Bob's and see what the have. I think Steele Rubber had some too.
-
22 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:
Have seen that rubber boot over the ball [G] for sale.
Highly likely the torque ball assembly is well worn
By the late BobH-->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/276957-new-1939-special-torque-ball-set-up-need-a-little-help/
Mark has/did make some replacements rubber balls [AF] ->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/339722-used-1939-buick-torque-balls-series-40-60/
Thanks, I guess I'm hoping I don't have to tackle a full R&R right away. Specifically...
- is it possible to replace the boot w/o the whole ordeal of removing or at least loosening the rear end etc?
- what are the symptoms of a worn torque ball? I have driven it ~10 miles and haven't noticed anything...
- any service I can do w/o removing the whole thing. Given I'm just driving 5-40 miles at a time, can I get by?
So far, the biggest repair has been rebuilding the fuel pump and flushing the cooling system (w/ evaporust repeatedly), torque ball maintenance would be a much bigger ball of wax!
-
OK, gradually getting the front end apart and looking at which parts have to be replaced. No play in the tie rods, so I'm not going to fight getting those apart right now and focus on the shocks and the stabilizer links and bushings since those bits clearly need replacement.
In the mean time, was underneath and noticed my torque ball didn't look so great... I haven't noticed any issues, have done a bit of reading and it seems like a real nightmare... what's the required maintenance at this point?
-
23 hours ago, Gary W said:
I sent my shocks (all four) to Apple Hydraulics. Very pleased with the service and it makes a HUGE difference in the ride.
After the shocks were installed, I bought the car in for a front end alignment. Don't skip this important step.
I can let go of the wheel at 55-60 mph and she runs straight and true.
Thanks Gary, I'm going to have to totally rebuild the front end as there's basically no rubber left in any of the pieces. So an alignment will definitely be necessary. Thanks for the Apple recommendation!
-
1
-
-
OK, new questions... it's time to rebuild the front end and shocks. I see there are several kits for the front end and options for rebuilders - any thoughts about sources, process, or priorities?
Also, looks like there's a 'rubber' cover over what I assume is the torque ball in the middle of the frame. This cover has a big hole in it. What's the 'easy' service I should perform to support continued short trips around town?
I've done a first pass at adjusting all four shoes using the technique that the wheel should 'coast' for one revolution if I spin it vigorously. The brakes are considerably more satisfying. During the front end rebuilld, I'll take the drum off lube and adjust from the begining, so that should further improve them.
I've now driven to town a couple of times (3 miles each way) and gaining confidence, but it's hard to believe this car will really reach beyond 60 comfortably. I'm easily cruising at 35-40 in 3rd gear and ready to upshift - if feels like another couple of gears would be nice. I'm going to install a simple tach to get a better idea of the actual engine speed. One factor - I'm currently running cheap used tires, which are only 24" OD instead of 27" OD of the spare tire, so that definitely influences things. I've read lots about the overdrives and other people with the same impression I have... , the overdrive seems like it may be the long term option. Any other thoughts or ideas?
Thanks!
-
On 9/25/2022 at 9:14 PM, MCHinson said:
There is also another one in the front of the head, but all you really should worry about are the three on the side of the block.
Matt,
All three on the side done. Picture above was the 3rd one (front). Middle one started leaking after the 2nd flush so I'm worried about the other 2, but not too badly ;-). Next replace the upper control arm pin and then bleed the brakes again and try to adjust them to reduce the pedal travel!
-
1
-
Noobie and his '39 Century
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
What about play/wear? Thunk on starting/deceleration? Any thing I should look out for?