C-Lamb
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Posts posted by C-Lamb
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On 10/29/2021 at 10:02 PM, 39BuickEight said:
I don’t know if this is the exact one I bought, but this is what I replaced. . I replaced the sockets with ones like these and just connected the wires.
Billy, tried that one, it's a bit too small - it fits through the hole in the back of the assembly. I went with a bigger plastic one which seems to work OK, but I'm not satisfied with the mounting or the brightness of the LED bulbs I got (they are supposedly 6V bulbs, but not bright enough), so I am going to try another set and see how that goes before I commit. Also, currently using a zip tie to make sure the little retaining spring is strong enough for the plastic socket I found, so that's not great, but it's a start. More soon I hope.
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27 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:
I don’t know if this is the exact one I bought, but this is what I replaced. . I replaced the sockets with ones like these and just connected the wires.
Thanks Billy, I'll give that a try.
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On 10/24/2021 at 9:35 AM, 39BuickEight said:
I ended up just getting new ones at my local auto parts store.
Billy, do you replace the whole assembly or did you find just the 'electrical part' with spring-contacts? I haven't found a replacement for just the 'electrical part', and I think I will have to drill it out to separate it from the bulb socket. There are some socket assemblies I think I can adapt, but feels like it might start getting messy quickly.
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Thanks Bloo and Billy. I've got the assembly soaking in evaporust and will try to take it apart this week, or drill it out if I have to. Then off to the autoparts store for parts.
Appreciate the help!
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Thanks Bloo, I may try this, especially if I can get the two pieces apart after soaking in ATF+acetone.
How did you plate them at home?
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Billy, what did you end up doing about the light sockets? My springs are shot and the socket is rusted in the larger socket. About to try evapo rust on the socket, but I'm not optimistic I'll get it apart and not sure how I'll fix the springs, don't seem to be replacements.
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OK, still slowly chipping away and waiting for the radiator to come back... apparently they haven't decided what core to start with... so it might be awhile.
In the mean time, I picked up a radiator at LKQ (out of a BMW since it was new and clean), and rigged something up to use. Before installing it, flushed the cooling system as best I could from the back freeze plug. Seems like it's all working OK...
Then did a bit of tuning and took it for a drive, here's a short video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/h1VHFyTvahBWTvXU7
And a longer one of the drive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOhgKR6rqWY&feature=youtu.be
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Thanks guys, I will definly be spending some serious time cleaning, thanks!
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Looks like my radiator needs to be completely re-cored.
Matt recommends Dave Tacheny, who I'll call tomorrow, any other ideas? Local shop wants $1200.
Thanks all!
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Radiator at the shop, they think it's going to cost $1200 to rebuild it if my tanks are suffiicent.. any ideas?
Trying to flush the rear brake lines, but not having much luck, can't get it loose at the distribution block, will keep treating it with the ATF+acetone and see what happens.
Thanks for any suggestions!
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Well, blocked off the bypass (with freeze plug and a 1/4" hole) and it seemed to be running OK, so I wanted to see if I could find out what else might be wrong. So braving the sticky carb float and 50 year old tires (chunks falling off), took a quick spin next door and back... Seemed to be ejecting a fair amount of coolant (out the loose cap), but I'm convinced that's the radiator as w/ the bypass open the coolant in the engine stayed clean.
Here are the videos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/upw9pievLrssKqBRA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qydrTZ7GTiJNb8dk6
So, I'll take the radiator in to the shop and see what they can do. They said $150, but I don't think they were really listening... While it's out try to flush the block a bit with the garden hose perhaps. Although it's back on jackstands and about 16" high than normal.
First gear seemed a bit noisy, but I don't think that's a surprise. Seemed to pull strongly enough and generally be drivable.
Next goal, drive it to the town event in September... but I will need improve several bits before that can happen! (brakes, carb float, tires, radiator). Will probably have the wheels blasted and primed while I work on brakes and radator over the summer.
It's slow, but better than others. My brother bought a 914 rust bucket just before his daughter was born, this last month he took it to someone to move it forward and she finished her junior year in high-school. My dad bought a '34 Chevy pickup about 1970, it hasn't been driven beyond the yard(and only 1-2x in the yard) since. So, since they started working on their cars, I've had mine less than a year and driven it more! Success!
I'll continue to avoid kit-ifying it and work on it an hour or two a week, we'll see.
Thanks for the help!
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Hmm, apparently the last update didn't get submitted until just now, not sure what happened.
Anyway, after a few weeks of running brake fluid and occasionally a few other things through the fuel line, I hooked it to the tank from Matt (thanks!), then reconnected to the correct connection on the tank and tightened a bunch of connections, I was finally sucking gas, but then no spark. I suspected that it had to do with leaving the ignition on for a few days and assumed I had fried the coil and put a new one in with no effect. So out came the emory paper, cleaned the points and the rotor and fully seated the HV wire in the coil and it's back up and running.
Next step go ahead and strap the tank all the way in and get some more run time on it, cleaning out the tank and the line a bit more. Hopefully, some sons will be around this weekend and we can drive it into the yard and do a bit of pressure washing.
After that, time to install a bypass (or block at least, I think it's open, and a thermostat...
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Still plugging away... have straps and installed the tank, but took it out so I can unclog the fuel line.
Running brake fluid through it a few times a day and waiting for it to clear up... I can at least get wire in from either end and blow compressed air, so that's an improvement, but what comes out is still nasty.
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Still plugging away... have straps and installed the tank, but took it out so I can unclog the fuel line.
Running brake fluid through it a few times a day and waiting for it to clear up... I can at least get wire in from either end and blow compressed air, so that's an improvement, but what comes out is still nasty.
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Most of the dried drops of very old gas were wiped off on in the process. The tank is empty, but you can see wet areas where it leaked and now that it's out in the light, you can see several old patches. I guess I know where the leak(s) where. Tomorrow I hope to install the new tank while my brother is in town.
While I was at the back of the car, I realized that with it on jack stands it was the perfect time to look at the rear frame. It's pretty clear that I have a short frame and no sign of an fix!
Anyone have good pictures of how the factory fix attached?
Thanks!
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On 4/15/2021 at 8:21 PM, MCHinson said:
In case someone is reading this in the future, I want to give some updated information. I recently learned that the guy at Bobby's Alignment and Radiator who did the work on my 1938 radiator was killed in a motorcycle crash. Bobby's is no longer able to do this type of work. Bobby recommends Rocky Mount Radiator for this type of work now. http://www.rockymountradiator.com/
Sorry to hear about that, thanks for the heads up. If Bull City Radiator can't do my work, I was planning to take it to Bobby's. 😞
Tonight I went out to finshing removing the tank in preparation to put the new one from Matt in. It was a bit hard to get to the junction in the fuel line, but even after all these years, it unscrewed easily and the tank is out. Picture to follow in a few minutes...
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Thanks to MCHinson for the tank! Made it home uneventfully and hoping to start on the install in a week or two... next weekend is blocked unfortunately, and I think I'll have to work tomorrow.
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Rebuilt the fuel pump after getting a kit for Christmas but been kind of slow with other stuff...
After the rebuild, tested the pump by hand and it didn't seem to be creating any suction, so eventually got around to disassembling and re-assembling, still didn't seem generate any suction but I decided to try it anyways! Rigged up up a filter at the carb and a gas can on the floor - and success!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WVdc5rcwKdVoeQn19
Next step, work on the tank!
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10 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:
And several things can go wrong
- switch on the gear lever
- wiring down the steering column
- flasher (6Volt)
The 1939 wiring diagram does show the indicator circuit
I think I am going to start checking the grounding and wiring into the trunk lid as that's most likely thing that's been disturbed. We'll see what the volt meter shows me! Found the diagram in the '42 manual, so it will be a matter of locating everything.
I haven't looked under the dash yet, but I assume the flasher and horn relay are both under there?
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Edit - OK I noticed that's a '38 wiring diagram linked to below and I'm checking the the shop manual now...
Another question... when we were exploring earlier the rear Buick logo was clearly acting as a blinker, (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ew9sRpFKJvs3zuju) but I can't recreate that behavior.
Looking at the wiring diagram linked below, I don't see either the directional switch or the bulbs. Am I just blind or is this something customized later?
Thanks again!
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6 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:
This may be of interest (may need to register for the site)
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/fuel_vacuum_pump.php
Section 6-63 and pages following in the 1942 shop manual has other information. (Chapter 7 Engine)
Download the 1942 Buick shop manual for free. All of it section by section.
Or click the pdf link to pay.
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Buick/1942/Shop Manual/
It is very comprehensive and has information that can be used with all straight 8’s.
It has more information than was included in older “Shop Manuals” before 1942
Thank for the TeamBuick link, I'm going to have to study that article. I think I found the home for almost all of the parts, so a bit more studying and maybe I can track down the last few...
I'll review the shop manual again, but it seemed pretty cursoury wrt the pump rebuild.
Matt, thanks for explaining the hand throttle, that was my assumption, but wanted to make sure!
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One more question... is there an operators manual or similar to explain all the switch positions and such? Just want to make sure I find all the features. For example, there seems to be something like a manual choke knob/pull on the carb/dash, but it's not clear to my why/what it does since it has an automatic choke.
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OK, next question.. continues to run and start well from the suspended fuel bottle, so that's exciting. Even @35F it fires up on the 6V battery pretty reliably, even with not great wires.
Got a fuel pump rebuild kit for Christmas (from CARS) and have disassembled and cleaned the old one, which I think is "AB" maybe AKA 518?, but can't find a good exploded diagram to make sure I get all the right parts in the right places. I saw several threads here, including diagrams for an "AJ" on a confused '48, but nothing for mine. I don't find a model number on my cam arm or the unit, but the 3 main parts are marked ~FP 707, FP-713, FP-704.
Went ahead and ordered a Motors 6th edition (35-42) as it seemed like it might be useful from time to time.
A couple of pictures, including picture of failed diaphram, glad I didn't try to use it!
Thanks for any help with an appropriate diagram and Happy New Year!
Chris
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22 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said:
Remember that to the best of my knowledge, all Model T's were gravity feed. Also the replacement Ford Model A was also gravity feed. When set up properly, the cars work fine.
For putting the fuel supply at the ceiling of the garage, you significantly increased the fuel pressure at the carb needle& seat. Maybe you have the float set too low? Plugged orifice in the seat? Trash in the fuel passage?
I was having problem with the '13 starving for fuel. Someone put a sediment bowl in the fuel line, rubber fuel line, and it looked like a wave form going up & down from the tank to the carb. I took out all of that stuff and put a straight steel line from the tank to the carb. Ended all of the fuel issues.
Understood. We have 6 tractors from the 50's (Ford 8N, 2 Cubs, 300 Utility, Allis Chalmers CA, Ford 8xx), all gravity fed.
But the '39 tank is probably 18" below the carb, it has to have a pump and therefore it pretty much must be setup with stronger float springs if nothing else to tolerate the positive pressure. There was a regulator (removed) before the carb, nominally 2PSI. This would seem to indicate that some positive pressure is expected at the carb. So, I have to believe that the carb expects at least a bit of pressure at the input to function. In the '39, I think it's all rigid line from the tank (real one) to the carb, with a sediment bowl at the pump input (I think, I have to look again).
1939 tail light socket
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Thanks Billy, the one I found on the shelf at Autozone wasn't big enough, I'll keep looking. I found a plastic one which works pretty well. Well enough to see what's else is broken. Gotta just keep looking and testing.