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Robby120113
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Posts posted by Robby120113
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On 6/9/2021 at 12:46 AM, 2carb40 said:
1954& early1955 3.4.original to CentSuperRoadmaster. NOT Sticks or SPECIALS, (unless u find something that was replaced)! Later changed to 3.36/1 with different tooth count to increase strength by having teeth contact at thicker point on gear. See 1955 Buick service bulletin.
So the 3.4 doenst fit a special. But the 3.36 does or is it the same thing?
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After i installed 2 nos rear shocks i again feel the rear shock start loosing their strenght after some 400miles. Why is this you think. They are dry and not leaking. Should i just try to refill again?
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Where to find this 3.36 punkin?
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On 6/5/2021 at 9:49 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Robby, it will fit but may not make much difference. May be the same ratio. Possibly 3.6 to 1. Not enough difference to be worthwhile. A 3.36 from about 1954-1955 is better. About 650 rpm drop.
Do you think the 248ci engine is still able to drive normally with this gear?
thanks
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Hi guys.
i am still on the look out for a better option for my 1940 buick special with a 3.9 rear gear ratio. I drive a lot and the fuel prices are ridiculous here. And also i want to have the rpm down. Since i live in the Netherlands parts shipment from the US will be very pricy. But now i see that there is a 1949 buick super dynaflow for sale in my country. Is this rear gear setup possible for mine?
thanks
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Hey guys
since i had the car the horn ring didnt work and a alternative button was mounted on the dash. Now i installed a new wireharnes in the car and also the cable in the steeringtube is replaced.
now here is the issue. The horn ring works great again. But after a 20 minutes or so the car starts to horn. I then have to quickle run to the garaga and removed the cable from the steering housing. Nothing is touching the car whats so ever. Then the next day i can reattach the cable and all works again. Then after a 20 minutes without warning it starts to horn again on its own. Im confused. Is there some kind of voltage build up and need to discharge? So better i do not drive with the cable attached at this moment. Car is a 1940 buick special model 41 -
Then maybe some one changed in the beginning since it looked like it was never removed. The cables were so brittle that when i touched it they broke. Also there was a stamp on the back with 40. Not possible that my car was already provided these style gauges? Will be a more expensive job to change all the gauges. So will leave it for now i think
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On 3/23/2021 at 10:17 AM, Morgan Wright said:
Then the switch is probably busted. Bob's sells them.
Yup. Got a new switch. For buick i cannot find the easy in europe. But these are the same as a willys jeep. And we have plenty of them here haha
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7 minutes ago, neil morse said:
That's looking great, Robby! What's going on there on the top of the dash right in front of the steering wheel?
Somewhere in the past they cut an opening just above the vacuum wiper motor for easier access. Seen it before on other buicks. Hard to repair unfortunate
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@michealbernal sorry. Its a 1940 buick special.
@Morgan Wright its was working properly for a long time. Only now after i made a shirtcircuit on it not anymore
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So i collected some courage and redid my whole wire harness. Now somehow I managed to rebuild all if it and did an install and the car worked. Even the dash electronics. So just wanted to take it out again to tape it all and noticed that only my brake lights didnt work. I found out the problem was that the big connector was not fully closed and was shorting on the dash. Now if i put a screwdriver on both contacts on the brake switch my brake lights work nicely again. But not by pressing the brake pedal. Did i damage the inside of the brake switxh with the shorting?
thanks for you input
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I bought a spare regulator in america. But will take probably a week or 2 before ill have it here. I also ordered an electric one that fits in the original housing. I drive quite a lot and dont want issues when far away from home.
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@boois was the relay marked as field that we touched and the rapid moving of the needle stopped and the charge went up. I took it out again to have a look at the points. Ofcourse cables will be renewed also.
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Ok guys. Problem is located. Solution not yet but will continue tomorrow. The problem sits in the part of the regulator. We hooked a amp meter to the generator, when the engine was idle the ammeter in my gauge was shaking and the ampere on the generator was flucttuating between 8-12amps. But when we put a finger on the circled part and helped the point to contact the gauges was perfect and the amps on the generator was 19amps. So burned or damaged contacts. So will take it apart and let you guys know.
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Small video of a drive today. You can see the difference between first run of the day to work and then in the afternoon. So strange
Need help with some questions. About to buy a 1945 chevrolet AK pickup
in Chevrolet & GMC - General
Posted
Hi guys.
I was already active on this forum because of my buick from 1940. But the american cars still gets to me. Im looking at chevrolet AK. I was wondering if there is a nice website on this model or a guy here i can contact with some questions.
thanks all