Flivverking
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Posts posted by Flivverking
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Is a Amur- can, Sprungfield" Rolled Rice "Amur-can?
I to would lean towards the Pierce Aorra. Probably cuz,it's slightly easier to fix from a money stand point.LOL.
I drove both a 1916 Pirece 7 pass.touring ,and a R.R . 1931 Victoria on a 1921 Chassis..
I felt at home with the Pierce Arrow, The beautifull Rolls, I felt like a pair of brown shoes with a dinner jacket.
Something George Gobal ,referred to once.
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Overall, I am 100 % sure ,I know one thing !
The majoritiy of vintage collector automoblies EVER! are owned by people who are not or ,never have,or had been , involved with any sort of club or association...
This contributes a great deal to "off the grid ,under the radar or off the map once known famous cars" that may or may not show up.
If they do,it's so many years later,it's taken as a completely new discovery,as all the old timers who knew of it before, are DEAD!
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Well , me being a dumb ass,I'm only replying to the title.
Back in the day when we had old cars stored out side with easy access ,in our drive or yard or at a friends drive or yard,even a friends Mobile station...we would do one of 3 things to prevent theft.
Remove both front wheel,wheel bearing nuts with catch blocks under the front axle or chain the wheels to the rear axle or lock up the front or rear brakes.
This was done on short term storages of less then a year.
We found one '40 LaSalle 52 Coup'e moved 4 feet with it's front wheels flooped off in 1990 at the Mobile Station.
Didn't hurt nutton...we had a laugh!
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There use to be what we called "pebble grain" which is very nice on a closed cars,especially earlier cars.
Short and long Snake grains are most poopular...
Beware of cheaper versions of all cobra grain with lower smooth profile grain strands.(looks worn down or ironed)It should be sharp ,thick and distinct and have a good heavy fabric backing with no black rubber color showing through the wave.
That being.said,at times this seems all that one can find...
If you can ,always try to get a sample! And shop around.
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Gone! Sent to RJP
Just one pair of 1-1/4" diameter wheel cylinder pistons .No gauling or corrosion. For use with normal inside brake shoes(1928 and later) on early Chrysler and?
Good pictures up soon or with your inquirey.
You need 'um ,I send them.
You send me cost of postage payment when you get them .Fair enough?
Some day you do the same .
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I have a few NOS sets of these around to..They are just spring clips you install in the middle of the piston skirt(which you have to modify a bit) to ,in theory,expand the piston skirt ever so slightly,closing up the clearance,stalling off a real rebore..
Done when doing basic re-ringing and usually coupled with a valve grind ,back in the 30's to the 50's when plain old service overhauls where common.
You may kill off some piston slap .LOL!
I have only seen them installed in Early Fords,Model.A and early V8s and 30's Mopars.
Sorry,but I see no value in them other then a display Item.
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Before I originally went with Apple mostly because they were close (and now regret) almost 2 years ago..I called White Post,and was so turned off by the guy on the phone,like I was bothering him for me to inquire on current price and speed of completion,(couple that with a major negitive rep..for a while in the past ),I passed on them.
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As far as speculating how a cylinder is jigged up for boring, it's funny ,know matter how ,even another experienced machinest thinks is done,that is never the case.
As far a very basic crude jigging .one can use a tight fitting or adjustable mandral(bar/pipe/rod) run through the bore as it is ,place the other end of the mandral in a Bridgport and lock up the cylinder on the table with what ever there is..Remove the mandral and start hacking away with what ever cutter..?Crude, but you get the idea..This is not how it's done.Ha!
The web side shows a picture of a corner with a lathe and tool bits and such which is just a scant of the what they use or need.
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There are/were 3 "80" PAs in just about the same condition in Connecticut for sale in the past year and half.
..All put up, 60 plus years ago.Nothing new about that situation.
Their 5 figure price tags get not much interest .
I did offer 6,500 for the best one ,because I felt sorry it..the owner was such a big shxt!
He said "are you effing kidding me ! It's a Pierce Arrow.."
I said" I know...If it was a Model A, I'd would offer you 7,500..
Now I now what the color "puce" is ,first hand.
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You got a great car there!
I had 2 friends that had nice original condition '28 Packards like yours.They use to pal around together and belonged to the same clubs in the 70's-early 90's
I had driven both cars many times.
A bit steering trucky,tight in the front seat, but smooth and quiet driving.
They both put oversized tires on the car which improved the ride and overall look of the cars..And I'm sure added some foot pounds to the steering(trucky) at low speed.
The 2 cars were bought from an old timer who loved and worked on Packards and Pontiacs. He and his wife ran a "Ma and Pa" gas station ,into their 80s.
He had cars like yours stashed all over,bought up through the years from past customers..
Even some open cars...He owned some Eights too...Even an AACA show car phaeton.
Anyway ,he thought those basic Sixs of Packard (27,28 maybe 29? ) were the most solid, stead fast ,reliable rugged models they ever made .
This old timer's brother made the paper in the 60's when HIS '28 Packard Six sedan clock 500,000 miles ,commuting back and forth to work for 40 years..with the original engine block in the car.
Good luck!
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Any well established and competent brake shop should still be able calculate the turning oversize limits on a cast iron brake drum off a 1936 Chrysler...
It maybe as simple as any factory original diameter and a max formula to go. .045 ,.060 or .090 over, say an 11" or 11-1/2" I.D. drum...
Some of my books state a general max oversize of .060.
That drums smooth and true worn or turned up to .030 oversize ,standard lining may still be used..
If worn more then that or need to be turn larger..to turn up to .060 oversize and install oversized lining.
Way back when,some states required drums worn more the .060 over the stock nominal diameter be replaced.
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Here is the bill for sleeving 5(one extra ,duh! )Lockheed wheel cylinders for a 1927 Chrysler model G70.
$519.82.
"Brake and Equipment Warehouse",are so much more on top of there game coompared to another company from New York ,who's work did not prove to be any good on many levels. We were disgusted to the point where we ended up scrounging another set of cylinders to have sleeved and abandoned the ones "the New York company" worked on ,leaving them on the car and brakes intact and not working till we were ready to hit them(the brakes) again.
I sent the 5 replacement cylinders in Sat. March 5th 2020.
The morning of Thursday March 10th,I get the call from (B&E W) they are done!
I pay for them and they are delivered Tues.March 15th!
They were wrapped and packed like antique china plates would be shipped with all new clean materials.
Notice the invoice shows the work as "step bore" only because the cylinders require a center bore grove or space for an internal piston stop attachment,so it's a double sleeve affair to leave the space.
They supplied ,at my request, the seal cups and boots.I sent in one piston to help match up the boots.
The sleeves are stainless steel ,the cylinders are a painted dull metal gray,probably something like the Eastwood brake paint.
I delt with easy going Justin,phone counter man,and Brad from the brake / machine shop..Pleasent, to the point ,no nonsense gents.
I'll be slow getting back to ripping into these brakes again ,cleaing up the old mess residue,some ,repainting and fussing with dopy crush washers!
We never have troubles with mechanical brakes 😜
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You may have to resort to bringing your spindles and king pins to a decent auto machine shop or heavy truck axle and spring shop and have them install new bushings to fit the king pins if they're not too worn.
You will find it very rare to find any information (that was recorded or remembered)of what someone else found to interchange or cross fit,with stuff like this..
You should state what 1924 Chrysler you have? If the models 50,60,70 and 80 where all developed in 1924..they would all have different king pin sets ups in some way due to the size of the car,so a different model kit may not help you if you came across one.
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They use to have those oil or kerosene pots that you hung on the radiator brace rods or placed under the motor to keep things warm in cold weather..never heard a story of a car blowing up...Why would engine block heaters with no open flame be of any danger?
The heating a plastic anything and it fails ,is too funny..Duh!
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All I see is ,Ego and conspicuous acquisition from one with too much money.
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"Troll reviving a zomie thread"
What's it to you?
The topic is still revelant at anytime as far I I can see..
I originally started the post but had so many costly automotive and personal set backs since I posted ,I never made any purchase.
I'm now recouped and just last week had cause to use my old compressor for a quick(I thought)project which prompted me to look for this thread this morning..and go over the suggestions again.
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One thing we die hard vintage drivers have/ do is have an even more heightened awareness of whats around us ,above what we normally have in modern cars,which is not a bad thing.
And not to be so skiddish , paranoid, milktoast ,as not to drive the vintage car...Or excessively concerned with the investment,in fear of a scratch. In this last regard your an absolute fool to put any money into an old car at all then.
..It's idiotic not to enjoy it.
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Ya know! It's almost a badge of honor to have some minor fender benders. It proves your using it for it's purpose and not holding some object in some weird reverence and not to be used or rarely be used at all.
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accidents are a fact of life,even in beloved hobbies and should be considered..
We and our cars don't live in Disneyworld do we.
..Cars are just tin and exspendable 100 % and there is no loss...what so ever PERIOD!
People ,lives and pain are what counts!
Cars are off the list!
But..Horray for the ones who made out o.k and did salvage the old bomb.
Anyone who suffered any real loss or pain...you are in our throughts..
I 've been lucky after over a half million miles plus.
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No,but I remember the guy in New Jersey,that had( stored/hoarded )a 1,000 plus Edison and Columbia cylinder phonographs at his mother's house.
And the guy in New Jersey who saved thousands/ tons of early brass car era, brass crap..
He was known to just give anything to anyone who needed it..
I went as a pre teen (1970)with a friend who knew "Austy" Clark ,for an introduction.
We got some early Auburn lamps and a Maxwell radiator and some used non skid tires.
Who was that guy?
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We will see what tune you play when your old and want to sell off your musical horn collection!
Kidding!
The horns I see people have..they paid very little or nothing or they wouldn't have them at all..
Save them...but don't spend too much if anything..They are not old cars that atleast you can drive and run into the ground and be usefull.
Are you going to just blow the horns,till they crap out after peeing off the neighbores when you can't sell them for hundrieds of dollars each.
Poke poke poke.needle,needle,needle,needle😜
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Who has had any accidents with their or others vintage car,involving another car,or singularly and what was the damage and outcome.?
1) In my early teens(early '70s) driving a '29 Ford Woody in winter on a glazed snow packed road, late afternoon ,going too fast ,the car lost it's grip.
I did a 360 and ran off the road ,over a low stone wall.
I was shaken ,but was able to free the car and drive home..A bent right side front axle and spindle was the damage.
I fixed it,but drove on it till spring.
2) In my late teens(17) I was passsenger(was driver eariler) in a 10,000 mile original 1935 Packard, sandwiched inbetween 5 drunk ministers(relgion we will leave out)
,comming back from a clergy convention, late night ,after a BAR stop ,between Hartford Conn. and Springfield Mass.
we were rear-ended by a drunk hick at high speed on a dark road.
The rear end ,trunk and all related bits was stoved in HARD .We in the front ,hit the dash and floor as the 3 white collared men in black were thrown over the front seat.
Bashed up faces,minor cuts and bloody noses was the worst..
The Packard condsidered totaled.
The car was bought back from the insurance company and repaired professionally with 100 % NOS parts and paint.It took ten years .The cost, 3 times what the car sold for 5 years later after repair.
We will leave any comments on why a 17 year old was with 5 drunken ministers for a convention for another conversation..Sounds icky,doesn't it.
Read my book,"Antique Automobiles and the Creeps that own them".
Just kidding..lol.
3) in my early 20's I was hit in the left rear quarter (tailgate/fender) in my '33Ford B pickup and spun 180 at an intersection on a rainy afternoon in the country by a teen speeder with no insurance.
The rear fender torn off and tail lamp demolished .
We agreeed to go on our way .
I repaired the fender with a fiberjob and found a NOS tail light and bracket..
4) in my late 20's I was re-ended at a stop sign in New Haven Ct. In a '47 Chrysler(Big Red).. No damage to the Chrysler but for light bumper bar over rider,scratches.
The plow horse of an old Chevy Maibu with ,sad sack chain smoker looking for a cig, was so down and out and stinky with a now wrecked front grill..I went on my way and didn't give it another thought.
My vintage traffic wrecks were pretty light overall.
Contemporary car accidents are another topic.
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Warehouse Finds: Has Anyone Dealt With Them?
in General Discussion
Posted
Hum?