timecapsule

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Everything posted by timecapsule

  1. So I'm curious what might give you the impression that I'm driving the car, when the above photos clearly show the fuel pump off the car and in pieces. ????
  2. Until now I hadn't really considered the probability of buying new junk. But of course it's a sign of the times. My engine has about 65,000 miles on it so it's quite possible that the fuel pump is original. Chances are whatever I buy now won't last that long. Hopefully longer that carhartley's experience. My diaphragm does't even look that bad. Just several crack marks but it was pissing out with a good flow of fuel out those holes on the opposite side of the diaphragm. I didn't notice any difference on how the car was performing. Before I noticed the dripping under the car before I parked it I drove it for about 15 minutes. Prior to that I was on grass. ( no not stoned lol! ) so I couldn't go back and check for wet spots on the ground. On route I was stopped at a set of lights twice and I didn't smell fuel and I had my window down, so I'm guessing that it just started to leak. moments before I saw it dripping. At any rate I'm guessing the only thing that needs replacing is that rubber diaphragm and it looks like it is permanently attached to the copper/brass backing plate. I haven't pulled out the diaphragm shaft assembly yet but I'm guessing that there is just a spring in there as well. I noticed that Andy Bernbaum offers to rebuild fuel pumps as well. Has anyone ever gone that route? Are there other components in my old fuel pump that could potentially fail?
  3. Anyways, back on topic. I'm using Chevron 94 since I've owned the car but is there anything else that should be replaced or attended to as a result of ethanol fuel such as that short flexible fuel line just before the fuel pump that I will be replacing?
  4. oh ok. So it is accessed through the end plate, as opposed to dropping the oil pan?
  5. Btw. At the risk of wondering off topic for only a moment, what is that protrusion just behind that shield. I've been looking at that on my engine wondering what it's purpose is?
  6. As I was saying it looks like I'd probably end up with the glass replacement fuel pump if I can't find a rebuild kit for mine. In that case it looks like it's a simple matter of replacing one of the screws with the long post from my carb, and attaching a home made shield similar to the one in this picture. Thanks
  7. Thanks Terry, I just went to their site and I didn't see my carb or a kit for it. but I'll give them a call.
  8. whoops,,, I meant to type MO-539 for the number on the casting.
  9. Looks like it's a Carter MO-532. In the one image you can see a long stud replacing one of the screws that hold the two bodies together. I'm assuming the heat shield was attached to that at one time. In the image that shows the diaphragm you can see that the mounting holes are offset so to say. I'll see if I can just get a rebuilt kit first. There is a number on the metal part of the diaphragm M203-16s Perhaps that's a clue regarding a rebuilt kit. None of the local parts stores have anything so it looks like I'll have to try Andy Bernbaum. Their P/N seems to be P-104. But no pictures. Moparpro have what looks like the same as mine with detailed pictures. But it's ebay only so I can't call them. Moparpro is $20 cheaper. Moparpro says it's ethanol safe and made by Vintage American Parts. Has anyone had any experience with MoparPro? Good point about the fuel getting into the oil. I'll do another oil change to be safe. Good point about that short rubber hose as well. I'll replace it too. So it looks like I'll probably end up with the glass top replacement fuel pump Is it just a matter of fabricating a heat shield plate and positioning it between the manifold and fuel pump? Thanks for the help guys.
  10. Thanks Terry. Good to know about the make and model. In the 2015 posting here, the fellow said the part # was 683 056. The local parts stores don't have it so I'm going to pull it off where the car sits and perhaps I can get a rebuilt kit for it. My mechanic said those holes were designed to pop and spit fuel when the fuel pump is faulty. He suspects that the diaphragm has deteriorated from ethanol gas over the years.
  11. My fuel pump just started leaking out of one or both of the nostril shaped holes on the side of the fuel pump as shown in the image in the mirror. I'm wondering is this a fixable problem or will the pump need replacing? I read in a 2015 posting here that a fellow ordered one but he got a glass bowl style from Andy Bernbaum. As you can see in the image mine is not that style. So I don't understand about the heat shield he made reference to? Is he referring to the fact that the upper body is steel, that being the heat shield? Or is there an actual shield. I don't see a shield on mine, but perhaps because of the manifold I'm just not looking hard enough. More importantly I'm having the car serviced for another issue tomorrow. Is there a way of stopping that stream of gas from coming out temporarily for a 5 minute drive? It's pumping it out as steady as lets say the stream of gas going into the carb when you push on the throttle linkage.
  12. ohhhhhh, ok good to know. Thanks. So is first gear towards and down on the shift lever? Mine being away and up.
  13. I was just reading over some old threads on fluid drive and your comment has me scratching my head c49er. I don't understand how one would start out in 2nd? I can start out by putting the shift lever in first ( low range) in my 48 Chrysler and wait for it to shift into second. Or I can start out by putting the shift lever in third (high range) and wait for it to shift into 4th.
  14. I didn't realize I was wasting peoples time on here. I was under the impression that forums were a place to share ideas and thoughts and ask and answer questions. When someone has asked me a question on here, I reply with an answer. I don't see it as my time being wasted. Why would someone even contribute to a topic if they thought their time was wasted? Not to worry Spinneyhill, I won't be wasting anybody's time on here anymore. Thanks to anyone who was willingly thoughtful enough to help me out and to spare some of their time.
  15. Not at all quite the contrary. Emails display documented verification of what someone said. It's valuable reference material down the road, perhaps years later when you can't quite remember exactly what the person said. Not only that but it's verifiable proof of what someone said. Point in fact. Just a few hours ago I was looking for a set of vehicle ramps. I called the local auto parts store and the guy said he had a pair for about $40 . I said I'd be right there. They were in fact $80 for the pair. When I mentioned about him saying that they were $40 for the pair. He simply said I don't remember saying that. It was no big deal I paid the $80 because that was about the market going price. He just made a simple mistake on the phone. My point being if were were using emails and the circumstances were difference, such as moving the decimal point a few times and 50% difference in the price would be huge. But no question about who said what.
  16. You caught my interest by indicating that the transmission won't shift with the kit in the image??? Please explain why Jon? I can't seem to figure out the connect between EXCELLENT, registered mail, and insurance ??? I've been getting things shipped to me by various means including USPS, and various curriers, either direct or through a customs broker. Not once has anyone insisted that it be registered and insurance was always put to me as an option.
  17. Thanks Jon. So my next question is where can I get that kit? Most of the kits are inclusive of a number of different models it seems. When I google carb kit cs-112, nothing comes up on the first page related to a carter carb. When I go to The carburatorshop.com, which is the source for coming up with that number as that link suggests, it looks like the website was created back in the late 90's and there is no place to actually narrow down the search to find cs-112 or to purchase it. You can't even email. Phone number only. Plus in order for them to ship to Canada the parcel has to registered mail and insured. There must be an easier way to get this kit? I don't see anything on ebay. I think I mentioned earlier that I got an available p/n from Napa for a carb kit with a picture. But I asked for a 1948 carter carb. Maybe if i just go back and ask for a 1946 carb kit I'll get lucky. Here is a picture printed out for me at Napa. Sorry for the poor quality but is it possible it might be the right kit?
  18. Ok guys, so according to that "Chrysler application and repair kits" page that carbking linked me to, I need a #112 carb kit. My carb model is EV1. According to that reference, it's a 1946 carb. Am I right?
  19. Thanks guys, This is all amazing information, I love it. Thanks to everyone for all the great pictures and illustrations. I can't wait to take this knowledge and apply it. I noticed that when I took the car for a test drive. I found that I really had to put the pedal to the medal and get the rev's quite high, when I was taking off in first gear in order for it to shift into the high range. Taking it up to what you might feel as a comfortable rmp for it to shift, just nothing would happen when I took my foot off the accelerator. Sounds like maybe that could be overcome by some adjustments to that mechanism or even carb issues. When I took off in 3rd gear low range, it was super sluggish and really wanted to stall out the engine. That may have been a carb issue since the car had been sitting so long, because if I feathered the gas pedal it did keep going after a few jerks. However once I got going in 3rd., shifting into the high range at that point was quite normal and a smooth transaction. I'm sure I'll figure it all out once I get a few miles under my belt. I'm going to change the engine oil, trans fluid and fluid drive fluid right away. I'm thinking maybe I should change the differential fluid while I'm at it. What would I use for differential fluid?
  20. Well how about that. Never too old to learn. After all theses decades I'd never heard of the velocity stack referred to as an air horn. Good to know. So if this Anti Stall mechanism or solenoid should fail, how would one determine that it was actually that particular thing that was causing the engine to stall. In other words is there a particular way to troubleshoot it? If it does fail can it be repaired or rebuilt ? Or can it be purchased as NOS ?
  21. Thanks Jim. I'll PM you. The part I really need is the small tubular piece that connects the flipper to the handle shaft.
  22. Regarding those inappropriate emblems on my car. I'm assuming there will be mounting holes in the front and rear fenders that hold the two "chrysler" nameplate and the 59 rear fender trim. Hopefully there will only be two holes for each totaling 8 holes and I'm guessing they will be somewhere between 1/8 and 3/16 " in diameter. I'm thinking my ultimate goal will be to have the holes tig welded closed, then find a painter magician to paint the area ( probably 4 in. circle or so) to blend into the rest of the paint. Until then, does anyone know of a plug that might fill that hole. Plastic probably and I could paint them red. I know it will still look weird but not as weird as those fender trim pieces. Even just leaving an open hole would probably look better.
  23. Thanks for the great pics c49er. I'm curious why the term "air horn" is used? How does that anti-stall control work?