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timecapsule

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Everything posted by timecapsule

  1. Bernbaum is selling them for $22. But here in Canada through experience on an item of that size and cost you basically double it and cross your fingers that Canada Border Services don't want a share of the pie added on top of that. But thanks for the link Graham
  2. I guess that's your way of telling me that Andy Bernbaum is a good deal. haha!
  3. Thanks. Yeah you're right, it sure looks the same. So what would I use for a reference or P/N at a Napa Auto parts store to get one of those?
  4. The manual specifies to coil the spring 1 1/4 turns. No more no less, but as long as the tab slid into the slot on the manifold thru arm and the other end hooked around the stud, and it fit inside that weighted shield, then a heat gun should determine how many turns is needed for whatever spring is used, to fully open and fully close the flapper, I would think. But I'm sure the average parts guy is not going to want to search through their stock to find a similar spring. I'm hoping someone has tried something that works so I'll have a make and year to narrow down the search.
  5. My heat riser spring on my '48 Chrysler (251 flathead) recently broke. My question is will I have to replace it with the specific spring for that engine or are there other more accessible and common springs that will do the same job, that might be on the shelf at my local parts store? My point being that yes Bernbaum has the spring but by the time I get it in my hands here in Canada it will cost me about $50. Who knows how long it will take to get here with the covid thing going on. The spring has 7 1/2 revolutions to it.
  6. Why did you not convert the turn signals ?
  7. Thanks for your input so far guys. It looks like it's going to be trial and error. In this thread, https://forums.aaca.org/topic/274052-1948-windsor-flasher/ Back in 2016, c49er added some pictures explaining the wiring at the flasher and also mentioned that the circuit breaker was providing full protection for the turn signals. But I'm still a little confused as to how it works? It looks basically like a set of exposed points. I'd like to hear an example of something going wrong and how the circuit breaker performs protection ?
  8. Hi everyone. So I'm contemplating converting to LED for my turn signal and brake light on my 48 Chrysler. It's still 6 volt positive ground. LEDLight.com says that I might need one of their load equalizer wired into my turn signals or my signals might hyper flash. They also suggest using their flasher. I'm not opposed to buying a flasher from them. I'm guessing my local napa auto parts store won't stock a 6 volt positive ground flasher anyways. If I use their flasher do I simply mount my original circuit breaker on to the new flasher? Looks like I would have to modify it s
  9. So I got curious about the function of the solenoid on the Carter EV1. As I was searching I came across a thread back in 2009 where DougD pointed out that the solenoids with 2 electrical contacts were for the 49-53 years with the M6 transmissions. But my question is how does that Anti-stall solenoid actually work. There is one wire going from that device, and T's off to the solenoid on the trans and to the coil. But I'm not sure which way the juice is flowing. Plus I don't see how it works. The wire connection goes inside the anti-stall solenoid and then continues with a coil of copper w
  10. So what grit paper would you have used? I would think if you lift the wheel off the ground and get a buddy to sit in the car and apply the brakes a few times while you spin the wheel. It wouldn't take too long to get a good wear pattern to appear on the lining. It might be a bit labour intense since you'd have to keep pulling the wheel off to check and then remove the sandpaper just as the entire lining is showing abrasion from the sandpaper. But it theory it would work I suppose. I'm just curious how many spins of the wheel it might take.
  11. I'm also working on a 47 Chrysler Royal. It has 11 inch drums just like my car. There was a doner car at some point for this car so there are lots of spare parts. In a box I came across a set of brand new brake linings. They are the rivot on type. They measure the same as what's on my car. 2" x 11 1/4" How would I determine what material they are? Is it possible to bond these linings to my shoes, if I should need them? The next time I pull my drum off I can lay them in to see how the shape compares to the drum.
  12. Are there any pictures or illustrations of this method on line anywhere?
  13. In rethinking my question I suppose you would take measurements of where the centre of the shoe was in respect to a point in the backing plate and then but the drum back on and then transfer that measurement to the outside of the drum. According to the manual that clip that's connected to the adjusting cam can adjust the tilt of the shoe ( I don't have the manual in front of me so I'm not remembering the correct terminology obviously) I'm assuming the closer you drilled that hole to the centre of the shoe lining the more accurate the measurements would be I suppose. Once again I'd hav
  14. Yes I read that recently but how would one determine the correct place to drill that hole, and what measurements would one use?
  15. I do have a shop manual and I've read the procedure on adjusting the brakes several times. However I don't have that miller MT-19 gauge tool and I've seen a homemade version where an arm is welded to a spindle nut and then another arm dropped from that first arm to the shoes to enable a measurement of 6-12 th. Thanks Mike for the page reminder of the reference to lubriplate. Obviously I'll have to refresh my memory by reading it over again. Regarding the homemade version of that MT-19 Miller tool, I'm curious if the play in the threads of that nut might effect the a
  16. I've only had the car since last summer. When I bought it the guy said he had just done a complete brake job. Sure enough there are all new wheel cylinders on the car and a new master cylinder and all new brake lines including the short rubber ones to the front wheels. Yes I did wonder about a weak brake shoe spring, but I have no way of knowing how to test it. However as I mentioned once I free up the wheel the brakes work just fine. I seem to think there is perhaps an alignment issue with the brake shoe and the forked piston going into one of the top wheel cylinder. The reason I say tha
  17. I was reading an old post from 2016 of a fellow in Vancouver that just bought a 48 New Yorker and was doing a disc conversion as well as a lot of other modifications to the car and then heading off to discover the world with his wife and two kids. In that post he mentions that remote booster you just talked about, and there are a couple pictures of it. I sent him a message and he got back to me a few hours ago. But since he's traveling he doesn't always have internet service available. I'm going to try and find out what components he used. From a couple pictures I see he managed to get th
  18. Thanks Mike. Perhaps you're right and I should post this in the Chrysler section. For the most part the car stops fine. However I do have a reoccurring issue of one of the wheels locking up completely for the first 3 or 4 applications of the brake pedal if it sits for a few days. I've pulled both wheels and everything looks fine and clean. No rust at all anywhere. I've learned to overcome this by putting the car in reverse for a few feet then forward for a few feet and then applying the brake while I'm still in my parking spot. Once it locks up it doesn't take too much to unlock it when
  19. I'm in the process of seriously considering doing a disc brake conversion on my 48 Chrysler Windsor and I'd appreciate a little input please. Now I know I'm setting myself up for some scolding here for not doing research and using the search engine. At this point my questions are fairly specific and although I've checked about 8 pages of disc brake conversions on here through the search method I haven't come across any answers. However I did see a post back in 2016 by 48NWYKR which is a gold mine of info with great pics of my car. I was interested in one picture under the hood and c49er n
  20. I would assume that they can be switched since they are both Carters and since the bodies look the same I would assume the pivot points are in the same place. However I don't have my fuel pump now. Only the one off the '47
  21. Necessity is the mother of invention
  22. Yes I noticed their listings, but when you click on each fuel pump it says it fits C-34, C-36, C-37 but not the C-38
  23. I didn't mean to take this discussion of topic by bringing in my richness on start up. It does clear up in about 3 minutes after start up depending on the day and then it's fine the rest of the day for start up. Only on a cold engine. I've recently adjusted my automatic electric choke ( manifold mounted) and it was off quite a bit. However I did this after my fuel pump disappeared so I'm curious to see if it will make a difference once I get a fuel pump back on the car.
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