timecapsule

I was interested in getting a 3D printer about a decade ago. The problem I found was that the advancements were moving so fast that whatever I bought, it would be out dated by the time I got through the learning curve of operating it. Plus I'm not familiar with all the properties of the various materials used these days. I've heard you can even 3D print steel as well as concrete. Anyways I'm curious how you got from the first stage to the final results? In the old days I think the method was to take hundreds of photos of what you wanted to duplicate and feed them into the CAD program and it would spit out what you wanted. Is that the way it still works on the up to date 3D printers?

I made my own puller for my 1930 Hudson Super 8. I used a couple pieces of 1/4" plate steel welded on each end of a 3 inch piece of a discarded driveshaft. I bought a generic cheap wheel puller and used only the threaded centre piece and the block it threads into, which I welded to one end. That threaded block section also works good to keep the puller from spinning when you put a wrench on it. The only tricky part is getting the diameter of the threads as close as possible to the threads on the hub. The threads on the puller were turned slightly less than the reading on the vernier calipers which read 2 5/8". Then ever so slightly increased the diameter of the threads, checking after each pass, by trying to thread it on to the hub, insuring that the threads were a good match. There are only 5 threads on the hubs on my Hudson. That isn't many threads to get a hold of, so the tighter the fit the better.

Very nice collection. Do you happen to know which cars any of them fit?

Today I used the air nozzle pointed at the fan, and I got it spinning quite fast and the LED light did not light up. I tried with the fan spinning in both directions.

I tried that, but with the wires reversed, once I turned on the ignition, the LED light came on full brightness. When I flipped the switch and turned on the fan, the light stayed bright.

I understand what you're saying, thanks. However, I am using #10 for all the wiring except the ground wires which are #12. Does that make it a little safer? If I used a 4 prong relay as in your diagram, how would I wire it in given what I'm using in my drawing? My switches have two terminals plus a ground terminal. I also have them wired separately and I turn them on one at a time so as not to create too much of a draw all at once.

I didn't want to go over board with the wiring. I just wanted an on /off switch and some protection with a breaker. Are you saying that my wiring is wrong?

I guess maybe the picture didn't load because I posted it in the reply in the quote section. Anyways here is the picture of my fans.

Assuming that you guys are correct and voltage is being produced by the rotation of the fan. How would that voltage find its way back to the LED at the end if the toggle switch? When the switch is turned off, I don't believe that there is continuity between the LED light at the end if the toggle and the wire that goes to the fan. I would think that the LED would have continuity with the ON side of the switch only.

I'm not totally convinced, however I also had that thought when I first saw them come on. I have a fan on the engine as well. One reason I mounted the two fans on the radiator is because The engine sits low in respect to the radiator. So low that about 3 inches of the fan blades are actually below the radiator so I wanted to have more air being drawn through the radiator. So I mounted the two 8 inch fans on the radiator above the engine fan blades as shown in the picture below. After noticing the LED lights coming on when driving, I wondered about what you guys have said, and if what has been said here, could be happening. So while parked I fired up the car and revved it up to around maybe 2500-3000 rpms. The two 8 in. fans didn't budge. The engine fan, as you can see is very close to those 8 inch fans. Tomorrow I'll try forcing air directly on the fans with an air nozzle from my compressor and see if the LED lights on the switches come on. I know lots of guys that have add on electric fans mounted on their Hot Rods and no one has ever casually mentioned that the LED lights on their switches are coming on when the fans are turned off. If this is actually happening then surely there is a way to channel that energy back into the battery.

The fans are on the inside of the radiator.

But with the switch in the off position, there is no power going to the fan.

I recently installed a couple fans to the inside of my radiator on one of my vintage cars. I just wanted the fans as back up fans for parades or traffic jambs. I wired them in so they come on when I flip the switch rather than having a controller. I wired them in separately so I have two switches. As the diagram shows the power to the switches will turn odd once I shit off the ignition. I noticed that when I reach a speed of 35 mph, the led light starts come on and gradually gets brighter the faster I go. But not as bright as when I turn on the switch. What's that all about??? Do you think it would make a difference if I reverse the wires going to the switch?

I have a '48 Windsor Chrysler, so my dash is obviously laid out differently than yours. If you are not too concerned with keeping everything original up under the dash, I would be inclined to attach the clock wire to a 3A fuse and then from the other side of the fuse run a wire to the ignition switch.

I had a look at mine today. As I mentioned earlier I put in a switch. But before I installed that switch, the power wire was going to a circuit breaker that is mounted on the light switch. Three wires are coming off the other side of that circuit breaker, but everything is so tight in there I couldn't really see where they go. I'm assuming one of them was going to my ammeter. I couldn't see in your video clearly if you had a circuit breaker in reach of that clock wire. As for the circuit breaker for the flasher. I think I remember seeing someone out there selling them. But I can't remember who right now.

Actually if you have another look at that wiring diagram marcapra, the wire that you followed was for the clock & glove box lights. The wire coming off the clock, going to the right, is the power wire with the 3 amp fuse, and it goes to the ammeter.

The trans relay is somewhat serviceable. Check to make sure that the fuse is actually working. Here is a you-tube link to "master tech" explaining how all the fluid drive components interact, including the trans relay. I have a '48 Windsor and I'm fairly active over on the P15-D24 forum. You'll get tons of information on that forum in the "downloads", "resources", and "technical" links on the drop down lists of that forum. Plus lots of help with guys like myself that own the 46-48 Chryslers. As for the carb, the rebuilt kits are pretty expensive, and a bet generic. Meaning most of the gaskets that you get in a rebuilt kit, you won't even use because they aren't for your specific carb. I've got rebuilt kits from the two leading suppliers of that carb, which is the Carter B&B EV-1 carb. Both suppliers omitted one of the three balls needed. Which is a 5/32" diameter ball. I ended up going to a bicycle shop and they have lots of balls that size. If you don't mind making all your own gaskets, the only thing you really will need to replace is the accelerator pump and the dashpot pump. The other thing that might need replacing is the float bowl needle valve. If you buy a kit from someone they will probably try to sell you the upgraded version of that valve.

This pictures shows the delicate brass arm (A) that the brass strip (Y) fits into. If you take out that brass strip (Y) and bend out ever so slightly the brass arm (A), that will slack off the pressure on the brass strip (Y). Or if you bend that arm in, it will apply pressure on to the brass strip. The more pressure that is on that strip, will make the points arm move faster and further. But I'm talking about an adjustment of an extremely small amount. Perhaps moving the arm (A) in or out the thickness of a piece of paper. If you move the arm (A) too far in or out, nothing will happen and the points arm won't respond. That tiny brass strip (Y)is the key to setting off the whole procedure.

I agree with you marcapra, Once I started studying the clock and following the flow, so to say, I saw just how skilled clock makers are. Once the points fire off the whole rest of the procedure is mechanical. The intensity of the points can actually be adjusted. Maybe intensity is not the right word. But the movement of the arm that the points are on can be adjusted. In this picture the small brass strip (Y) regulates how far and how fast the arm that the points are on moves.

If you're not familiar with 600W, that stuff pours brutality slow. It pours about as slow as the STP of the 60's.

I have a '48 Chrysler Windsor and I'm guessing that I have the same clock in it. However I also have a clock out of my '46 Chrysler Royal parts car and even though it looks the same, some of the gears are slightly different. Your clock is electro/mechanical. Those points do need to be filed so that they meet cleanly. The reason your points are bad, is that the battery got run down and the voltage dropped down that goes to the points. A lot of people think that the clock runs down the battery, but it's the other way around. As mentioned earlier in this post, the points set off a spark, when they touch. Mine go off about every one and a half minutes. But even that can be adjusted. When those points touch that spark briefly opens the points. That movement cause a piece of spring steel to flip in an opposite direction. Which in turn resets a spring loaded wheel that is connected to a balance wheel. What this does is basically rewinds the mechanism. The clock is now functioning and it will function until that spring becomes unwound. At the same time the mechanism is gradually closing the points. Once the points close, a spark energizes the points and the separate again and the procedure happens again. The battery needs to be fully charged to create sufficient spark to open the points and to make the piece of spring steel flex in the opposite direction. If the battery is slightly discharged, there won't be enough spark to open the points and they will sort of try to open but basically just keep sparking without opening. This causes the points to weld together and blow a fuse. I took mine apart, I'm taking about disassembling every single piece. Cleaned each piece meticulously and put it back together. If one of those pieces is slightly damaged or dirty or ever so slightly out of adjustment and alignment, it will not work. Sometimes it will just keep blowing fuses, sometimes it will run of 10 or 15 seconds and just slow down and stop. If you're going to disassemble it, you need tons of patience and time. Not to mention a lot of 3 amp fuses. Maybe try to find a 3 amp breaker. You'll need a set of those magnifying glasses, and a few top notch tweezers, and steady hands. As for lubrication, you only lubricate the pointed ends of the gears. I've forgotten now just how many gears there are that come to a point at each end. You put a drop of oil on each end on both ends of the gear. There is actually specific clock gear oil. But I used sewing machine oil and it seems to work just fine. But don't over do it. Just a drop or two. There is one other devise that you lube and the is the ends of the speed adjuster. In the one picture the arrows point to where the oil goes, as with the other pictures showing arrows where the oil goes. The "bread tie" shows just how small and delicate the speed adjuster is. One thing to watch for is the body grounding out, when you reassemble. There is very little clearance and also sometimes that tiny gasket material can get damaged. Telltale signs are constantly flowing a fuse as soon as you add power to the clock. I found that a 2 amp fuse wasn't enough, but a 4 amp fuse was too much so a 3 amp fuse is just right. The best way to have your clock always working when you need it is to add a switch to it, and only turn it on when you're driving the car. Because the clock will run when the car is off. If you put your ear close to it you can hear the mechanical side of the clock resetting ever minute and a half ( with my clock at least ) But if the car isn't used every day, and you don't have it on a trickle charger, the battery will get a bit low and as I mentioned above the points will weld themselves together.

ECO reps would also drop off the carriers but they got discarded right away and thrown into the dumpster bin, because we would spread the bottles around the shop for the convenience of the mechanics as well as one at each gas pump island. One of my many jobs was to keep them full. As well as clean up the mess when they would get knocked off a work bench. The blend of motor oil and glass chunks was never a fun job to clean up. I think I remember the sides of the rack as being much higher than the one in the picture.

On that note, does anyone know of a reliable source for reliable condensers?

I was given this "oil topper" by a friend. At least that's what we called it back in the 60's when I was a kid working at a gas station. ECO Service Station Equipment was a company out of Toronto that supplied the service stations with a number of stuff. One of which was the tire inflator. When the ECO rep's would come by they always dropped off a number of these complementary glass oil dispensers. We kept one out at the pumps full of oil. When a customer came in and we would check the oil, if they were down half a quart, we would "top" it off for free. I've only been able to find one picture of this particular one, and it was mentioned by the auction house that is was 1920 vintage. I know that there were a number of similar ones back in the day, but I'm primarily interested in this style. I can actually remember the pouring spout being on an angle on the ones we used when I was pumping gas. I'm curious if any of my fellow Canadians have any more info or pictures of this particular model and might know of their value?

I appreciate all comments and suggestions. I don't mean this to sound like I'm being critical. But I do like things to make sense to me. You guys have suggested that I use "hard" washers 8 grade. Because soft washers could compress and cause issues. But the shims are brass ???