o2zoom

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Everything posted by o2zoom

  1. Bob, Unfortunately I'm on the other end of the country north of San Diego.
  2. Good pictures explain a lot. Do you happen to have the part numbers for the sector and the steering shaft? I see the Ford guys can get an after market replacement:
  3. Will have to study what's involve in changing the height of the steering wheel. As to the worm gear regarding it's taper. Can you put a straight edge on yours to see if the center has a high point. If it does then indeed they may taper toward the ends. If not then chances are they're not. Could also mic the worm in several place from end to end for variations. As you say the part number is for the shaft with worm gear. However I think the two pieces were made separately and joined as suggested. I wonder if a new worm could be machined and put on a shaft if the old worm could be removed? Can you provide the part number for the shaft and sector in case there are any other GM cars of the era that use the same components? Probably would never find good usable parts but one never knows. I'll certainly know more once I try to re-adjust or dissemble as the case may be.
  4. Very interesting thought on shimming up the worm gear. They must machine the worm gear separately and then attach it to shaft. How do they attach it to the shaft? Welded? Pinned? Crimped in some fashion?
  5. Bob, Really a big help. Interesting about the sector shaft verses the worm gear wearing out. From your picture of the shaft and worm gear I'd say that worm gear looks to be serviceable to me. If I have to pull mine apart maybe it will be the sector shaft as the source of the excessive play. Still will re-adjust gear box when I get back home in a couple of days to see if I can get rid of the binding without such an excess of play. I will follow up with results of that effort.
  6. Bob, Thanks for the detailed instructions. To start does the horn button after pushing in twist to come off. That's how my old Chevy one did.
  7. Bob and Spinneyhill First checks I did was to inspect kingpins while servicing the front brakes and repacking of the wheel bearings. All good there. Also checked the tie rods ends, drag link, pitman arm, etc. I haven’t checked the toe in yet, I will but don’t think that’s a major contributor. All else looks good. I would estimate I had 10-12+ degrees of steering wheel rotation before I would see any movement in the pitman arm. So, I figured the source of the play is in the gear box. After adjusting was about 5 degrees but I need to back off due to binding. Which I will do when I get back from a 4th of July get away. I suspect the gearbox never was greased in its lifetime and fear the worm gear is worn out. I previously put all new extension wiring to the light switch so I’m somewhat familiar with the delicate nature of the switch and its components. Is the steering shaft all one piece up through the column housing? Also does the horn button push in and turn to remove? I take it the steering wheel is retained by a nut on a splined end of the steering shaft. Does the locking key switch have to be removed to separate the column from the shaft assembly? Pictures of your spare column would be a great help. In the end I hope some further tweaking might solve my problem but I am not too optimistic. Can the gear box be rebuilt, it so any resources for parts, etc? I can say enough about how great this forum is.
  8. Some help needed about steering box. I’m working on a recently acquired a 1932 Buick 50 Series sedan. There is excessive play in the steering. I have made the adjustments per the service manual on the roller shaft and worm shaft end play but it had no impact on the amount of play. There is also mentioned that “backlash between the worm and sector is adjusted by shifting the housing cover” page 109-110. I made this adjustment and was able to eliminate some of the back lash but need to fine tune the adjustment, with the wheels jacked up it seemed improved but once the car is back down and under load, I get some binding so I need to back off the adjustment some. So far, I have not been able to get acceptable results. The excessive back lash causes what in Jeep circles is called the “Death Wobble”, a severe wheel shimmy. Second question is whether the steering box can be removed without removing the steering column/shaft. It looks like the box could be unbolted from the frame, remove the electrical from the end of the column and if the steering column shaft is splined then it could be detached from the steering box. I was unable to fine a reference in the manual on removal. Bob Engle had some pictures of a steering box in response to a light switch question back in May 18, 2018 but they only showed the steering box and not how it is attached to the shaft. If further adjustments don’t solve the problem I will either need to get the steering box rebuilt or find a replacement. As Always, I appreciate any help and insight.
  9. Good advice. Have pulled the valve cover and looks pretty clean. Looks like newer gaskets on water jacket cover and oil pan. Perhaps some maintenance was performed earlier. Have laser heat gun so will see what readings I get. Did a compression check. Surprising to find 87 pounds across all cylinders. I assume that's acceptable. Some plugs did show some oiling. Distributor was clocked wrong so going through the timing exercise to dial things in according to the spec manual.
  10. 1932 Buick Specification and Adjustments Manual Recently purchased a 1932 Buick. Before I picked up the car I bought the 1932 Manual. When I got into the trunk of the car there was a manual. So if anyone needs a new unused reprint I have one. Think I paid $29 plus shipping. I can send it media mail. If I can get $22 I'd be happy.
  11. Thanks Derek, That's what attracted me to it. Body, interior, glass and trim all quite nice. No rust or wood problems. Several minor mechanical issues to sort out. Previous owner did not have any mechanical ability and the car was basically dormant for over ten years. Not sure this one will be a long term keeper as I have been more into pre-war Cadillacs but it seems to be a pretty good car.
  12. Thanks Bob. This is going to be a driver so I'll go with function for now. Good to know the original style repo is available..
  13. Dave, My canister is as you described. Spring and lid look complete and there is a stop on the bottom of the center tube. All I need to do is get some FIL 1001 Napa oil filters. You were a great help. Cheers,
  14. I'm just getting ready to open up mine to take a look inside. I had removed the old filter which was incorrect as it had been crushed because it was too long. Oil was in very bad shape so drained and have run with new oil just to circulate and flush the system with fresh oil. Will drain and install filter with new oil and monitor results. Pressure held a little over 30 PSI cold and about 25 PSI at 160 degrees. Will probably take a few short interval changes to clean things up a bit. Jim
  15. Looked at the dimensions of the Wix 50001 and it appears like that's the one that will fit. Really great help. I'm sure to have more questions as I get in to this project father.
  16. Dave, Thanks. Does the spring go on top with the cap nut as a guide? Is there anything on the bottom of the canister to support the paper element off the bottom of the canister? Very helpful info, much appreciated.
  17. Thanks for the replies. Would anyone happen to know a part number for a cartridge that would work in my model of oil canister? I looked at some pictures of a 1933 models and they appear to have identical filters so maybe being a late production car it got the 1933 unit since it is attached by factory spot welds on the rear push rod cover.
  18. 1932 Buick Oil filter questions I just purchased a 1932 Buick 57S. I'm starting to sort out various mechanical and electrical issues. In looking at the 32 Buick Specification Manual the oil filter canister I have is different from that which is pictured in the manual. Mine looks more a later version. I believe this is a factory installed unit as the bracket that holds the canister is spot welded to the rear inspection cover. First question is what number filter element is correct for this? I am also wondering what if anything is supposed to be inside the canister to support the filter element. I have opened the canister and I don’t see anything inside that would support the filter element. I will see if I can post some pictures of it. It has an AC Filter decal on it but not sure if it really applies to this particular filter canister. All help appreciated. Thanks, Jim