o2zoom

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  1. Pete, Yes I think that's it. Is the other side a 3 bolt pattern? Thanks for checking on the steering box.
  2. Bob, The tubes look to be in perfect shape. The problem is the riser casting itself. It's cracked in a couple of places. When I get back home in a couple of days I'll post a picture. Results in basically a huge vacuum leak. Doubt it can be repaired. Maybe someone replaced the tubes and cracked the housing doing it.
  3. Steering update. Started the removal of the gearbox. Removal of the splash panel was fun since none of the nuts are captured and holding them is a little difficult while trying to loosen the old slotted screws. I don’t think the panel had ever been removed before. Removed the Wizard control valve and linkages, carb and riser along with exhaust piping for access. Found that the carburetor riser is badly cracked in two places. The diverter off of the exhaust manifold and heat transfer tube all in pretty poor shape. Might be time to think about a down draft mod. Will have to start a new topic on that one. Once the area was cleared of the obstructions I followed Bob’s removal formula. Carefully removed the light switch and throttle pieces. The light control tube was removed without any difficulty. The throttle tube was a bit of a problem. It would only extract about 3 inches before becoming stuck. I kept working it back and fourth applying some WD40 from up top and letting it work its way down. It became evident that a shellac like coating had built up, might even have been some rusting. In any event after a lot of coaxing it came out. The problem now is none of the little centralizers came out with the tube. So they are still in the steering shaft and probably contributed to the removal problem. I’ll have to deal with that once I get the shaft and gear box out. The pitman arm took some persuading with a large pickle fork but came off after a few blows with a trusty 3 pounder. Will tackle the steering wheel removal and final push in a couple of days. In the course of cleaning up under the car I found an interesting little piece. Not sure if it is something that had been lurking on the frame for years and just now fell off or if is part of something from the column. It’s non metallic, about 3/16” in diameter and maybe 3/8” long. Any ideas on what it is?
  4. Spent the better part of the day doing a few more adjustments and took some readings. Caster was right at 2 degrees. Camber was 1 ½ degrees. So those are in line with specifications in the manual. Measured the toe. Looks like someone else tried to cure the wobble by increasing the toe in. However I would say a little overboard, it was ¾ inch toed in. Reset to ¼ inch. End result was no improvement. Even after backing off lash adjustments for testing purposes seems like gear box is still binding and makes it very hard to steer.
  5. Answered part of my own questions. Looks like it's a Saginaw box.
  6. Bob, You responses have been admirably succinct. Without the information and guidance you’ve provided I’d be up against the wall with a blindfold. I made several adjustments today without any meaningful progress; each test drive resulted with the same “death wobble” at the slightest provocation. I don’t believe there is any option but to pull the steering assembly and inspect the internals. I’ve been doing some research on various components and history of steering gear boxes. It seems that Gemmer was an early manufacturer of gear boxes primarily for Ford. They may have held the patent on this type of worm and sector design. I am assuming that GM boxes were made by Saginaw. I wonder if they were a knock off and if they paid a royalty for using the Gemmer design? The spec book says the 50 series gear boxes are a 17:1 ratio. Is there a reference to the Buick boxes being Saginaws? I also see some early ford boxes are also 17:1 ratios. Coincidence? Or was the Saginaw box a hybrid. I am resigned to start the removal of my steering assembly. I’ll review your previous instructions on the process and get ready to gut it up. I pretty sure I’ll find that there is pretty severe ware in the worm and sector. The saga continues.
  7. Bob, Forgot to ask if you would measure the sector shaft diameter as well? Thanks,
  8. Thanks Bob. Odd there was no part number for the sector. Could you do me another favor and measure the worm gear length and the steering shaft diameter? Would help in seeing if I can get another GM piece to adapt.
  9. Bob, Unfortunately I'm on the other end of the country north of San Diego.
  10. Good pictures explain a lot. Do you happen to have the part numbers for the sector and the steering shaft? I see the Ford guys can get an after market replacement:
  11. Will have to study what's involve in changing the height of the steering wheel. As to the worm gear regarding it's taper. Can you put a straight edge on yours to see if the center has a high point. If it does then indeed they may taper toward the ends. If not then chances are they're not. Could also mic the worm in several place from end to end for variations. As you say the part number is for the shaft with worm gear. However I think the two pieces were made separately and joined as suggested. I wonder if a new worm could be machined and put on a shaft if the old worm could be removed? Can you provide the part number for the shaft and sector in case there are any other GM cars of the era that use the same components? Probably would never find good usable parts but one never knows. I'll certainly know more once I try to re-adjust or dissemble as the case may be.
  12. Very interesting thought on shimming up the worm gear. They must machine the worm gear separately and then attach it to shaft. How do they attach it to the shaft? Welded? Pinned? Crimped in some fashion?
  13. Bob, Really a big help. Interesting about the sector shaft verses the worm gear wearing out. From your picture of the shaft and worm gear I'd say that worm gear looks to be serviceable to me. If I have to pull mine apart maybe it will be the sector shaft as the source of the excessive play. Still will re-adjust gear box when I get back home in a couple of days to see if I can get rid of the binding without such an excess of play. I will follow up with results of that effort.
  14. Bob, Thanks for the detailed instructions. To start does the horn button after pushing in twist to come off. That's how my old Chevy one did.