o2zoom

I think the amount of leakage you described is excessive. I now can’t remember exactly how that shaft is sealed. For want of a better explanation my shot in the dark fix would be carefully remove the combo light switch. The retaining plate on mine was secured with two bolts to the gear box. I’d see what’s behind the plate. Might give you the answer on what’s supposed to be there. If after looking at the area around the shaft nothing is evident or comes to light I’d suggest this. Find an o-ring with sufficient width to be compressed when the end plate is attached that has the same inside diameter of the lighting shaft. The idea is the plate will compress the o-ring and provide a nice tight seal around the lighting shaft. Maybe a parts book would show what’s really supposed to seal the shaft. Perhaps someone else really knows what the correct sealing method is.

As always Bob is on target with expert help. I would add that in the general area where the wiring harness is located by the lighting switch at the end of the steering column are leads for the gas gauge sending unit that runs to the gas tank and also wires that run to the lever switch for the brake lights. As noted no fuses and the old cloth covered wiring can be quite delicate. On my column the leads going to the lighting combination switch where all exposed wire. I didn't want to replace the entire harness so I carefully took each lead and removed the covering back to a good area and then used heat activated shrink wrap tubing to re-insulate each lead so they would not short or make contact with the neighboring wires as it's a tight area under the protective cover. After assembly all worked as it should and the cover hides my after the fact insulation job.

You might find something in a write up I did when converting my 32 57S. My neighbor created an adapter for me. After further testing I increased the jet size just a little.

I did a conversion on my 32 Series 57. I wrote up some of the process I followed. Perhaps you might find something useful. In the end I ended up using #45 or #46 jets. Can't remember now. So far no issues and love the quick startups. A couple of pumps, pull choke hit the starter and instant starting.

My 1932 Series 50 has a weak hood center strip. I've done some looking around and found this source. https://www.steelerubber.com/hood-hinge-top-strap-pivot-70-0045-42 I'm not 100% sure this will work on mine or yours. What I do know is it's very pricey. I'd like to find something a little less expensive. Also my top strap is bright chrome like finish not painted steel. Anyone have any ideas?

For what's worth here is a link to the thread on problems I had and eventually cured on the "death wobble" on my 32 50 series. Perhaps there might be something you can find that will help you solve your issue. In my case it was a corroded worn out steering box.

Bob, Check will post tomorrow going your way. Thanks,

Jim, Thanks for the lead and tips. So far so good on vapor lock potential issue. I've driven in 80 degree weather, the hottest it's been and so far no issues with vapor lock. I plan on insulating the fuel line. I do a little cheating on fuel. Since I live pretty near a private air field I use a mixture of aviation low lead with regular pump gas. Boiling point is a little higher. Used this formula in my 38 flathead Caddy with good results. If I encounter a problem then relocating the fuel line a little more distant from the exhaust header may be necessary. Time will surely tell.

Thanks Bob. That’s a deal. I sure I still have your address will send check.

Thanks Bob and Mark.

I need a distributor cap hold down spring clip. I have one that is broken. These distributor hold down clips where common on a multitude of Delco Remy distributors used in all kinds of car makes and model applications. I am hoping some forum member has a box of scrap distributor leftovers that might have one of these clips hiding out. Appreciate any leads. Thanks

Mike, Glad you're pleased. Nice to have an original. I have an original Reference Book, you're right about the page thickness.

I'll just have to visit some of my local area auto wrecking yards to see what might be a candidate for my application. Thanks for the suggestion.

I had a forum member ask me about my what I used for a gas pedal. I thought I would share my response. This might be a little hard to follow but I will try and describe what I did with the pedal setup. The pedal is a spoon type on a pivot with an arm. The pivot shaft is splined so the arm and pedal relationship can be adjusted. The pedal was too long so I just cut it down to the length that worked best. There is a clevis pin to witch the cable is attached to the upper arm of the pedal assembly. I used ¼ inch tubing to fashion the housing that the cable runs through. I know the kits you can buy have a woven mesh housing that is pretty flexible but I was afraid it would deflect some when the cable exerts internal pressure. My concern was this setup housing runs very close to the positive battery cable that goes to the starter lug. With the rigid copper tubing no chance of deflection so that issue goes away. I used the end assembles from a flexible cable kit. One end has a threaded member that the ¼ tubing fits perfectly in. This allows one to adjust the slack out of cable. The other end has an attached flat washer on the threaded housing. I was able to use the slot in the floor board to stick the house through where the threaded extended past the floorboard enough to allow me to put the nut on and sandwich the housing on to the floorboard. Then it was just a matter of setting the modified pedal assembly to where the cable fed through the house at a good angle and allowed for full throttle and an easy return with the carburetor return spring. I looked on eBay and there is a kit that looks exactly like the basis for my setup. I have been test driving the car and the cable throttle works great. Here is the eBay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Spoon-Gas-Pedal-and-Black-Throttle-Cable-Bracket-Spring-Combo-Deal-Kit/142002412277?hash=item211000daf5:g:ZM8AAOSwovFdn1Ns I tried to take some pictures and have attached them. Please feel free to reach out if none of this makes any sense. It was a trial and error method but I am very happy with the results. The last thing I need is a good looking period air cleaner that has a low profile with not too big in diameter, maybe 8" or less. I'll have to post a request for help on the forum for suggestions.

Cost to send Priority Mail flat rate is: Priority Mail 2-Day™ Flat Rate Envelope $7.75 so $29.75 to your door. If this is good just PM me with your address and a way to pay.