PhilAndrews

Better. Carburetor really isn't happy but it also needs an overhaul kit, or better yet, retirement and replacement with new. Phil

Cleaned the carburetor. That's not too bad, really. Phil

Well yeah, but that's the first time I had tried it and that was at lunch! I had another go. It was successful. Not bad for a carburetor made from electrical tape. Phil

The rotor had been pushed by the cap for a number of years sat in storage. It was that which caused the problem. I have one bad starter and one that's lazy. Great! Phil

It does, just about. Engine isn't going back in any time soon though. Previous builder didn't remove it and knocked the cap off, which was then left all on one side for years. Took a bit of persuasion to get the rotor to sit right. I'm going to crank it over (assuming that starter is any good) and see if the ignition module still works- it's an unknown right now. If it does, I'll feed it a little and see if it barks. Phil

I might have become just a little carried away with work in the garage tonight. I'll check if that starter is any good tomorrow. Phil

Yup, brought round to the correct position there's plenty of oil. Happy about that, everything's got a bit on it now. Phil

You are correct, the cam needs to rotate for oil to reach the top end; apparently to reduce oil overdose. I'll spin it over and get some oil up into the galleries first, the top of the pushrods will need oil also. It I do try start it, the gearbox will be without oil the block without coolant so it'll be a brief start until I can change that- then it'll need a 2000 rpm break-in for the lifters. It's hard to tell if the cam is totally new from looking at it. Phil

Tangent! Back to the engine. I made an oil pump adapter and filled up the oil pan. After a brief Exxon Valdez as the oil filter adapter plate didn't seal, I got it set up and holding a steady 68psi on relief. Not getting anything up out of the top end yet which is a little concerning but the lifters did pump up so there's oil throughout the block. Phil

Yeah, the carb has been dropped several times, it's missing the choke mechanism and I don't feel like pulling the casting plugs to clean out the emulsion tubes. That being said, the ultrasonic cleaner does a moderately good job of removing the worst of it, so it'll be good enough to get it going and eventually just move the car about with.

Icky, icky, icky. I hate ethanol fuel. That is all. Phil

Rodney, Well, there's a couple reasons I don't just throw money at it. I don't have that much of it! I find the experience is worth the cost saved. That and you are right- there are a lot of high quality reproduction items but in contrast there are a lot which are not. At least what's on the car is a known quantity. As for the gearbox- well, not many opportunities to pull apart a 70 year old marvel of modern engineering, are there? Also, like I mentioned above, knowing how something works both satisfies my curiosity and also serves to better understand how it works and therefore be able to repair it when it inevitably ceases working properly again. As for the waterfalls, that's a good idea, I should try tape. I've had a couple of cars with the cousin to the Buick 215, that's about the limit of my Buick-icity, but I'm also now entering the realms of Mopar history via Plymouth..! Some days I'm not sure if we keep them, or they keep us but either way I'm glad you enjoyed reading. Phil

Measured across the flats, just under 3/8" so I can get a length of round 3/8" rod and file a hex end onto it to use to prime the pump. Couldn't resist, set the ancillary parts onto the engine. Someone hacked it all about, I need a spacer, some carb bolts, the valve cover gaskets too. Phil

A hex rod would work, one end clamped in a drill. I may do that, dropped down through the distributor hole. The engine had a complete oil seal set, I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the tips. Phil

Got the pistons in, aligned correctly this time. Bottom end torqued down correctly too. Cleaned out the oil pump and refitted it. Got the heads back on, valvegear installed in the correct order and the intake on. Need to get some bolts for the lifting points and exhaust manifolds. Does the oil pump self prime on the 318? I cleaned it out and lightly oiled it all back up with engine oil before putting it back on. Phil

Got a new pair of tail light lenses. Needed a jolly good clean in the ultrasonic bath. Much better. Brighter, too. Phil

DMV task done, I now hold a temp title in my name. Just waiting for the official one to arrive in the mail. $337.60 poorer for that privilege too.

Yeah, that would be nice... ...being as my other daily driver has this badge!

Cleaned a couple pistons up in the ultrasonic bath. They came up clean but upon inspection they aren't new. Looks like they've honed the bores to death with a dingleball because a few of them are well, WELL outside spec. The ring gaps are grand canyon-esque. Piston slap ahoy. At least it won't have rod knock. Bottom end is good. Rods are the correct way round now. I'll see just how bad it is when I've got it all back together. My figuring is this will be good enough to putz about with for a short while. I'll probably look at either building up the spare block or sourcing a different engine altogether long term. Phil

40 rings doesn't look like a lot when you start pulling them off... I'm going to clean them, gap them and refit them ready to go back in. Phil

I found my calipers, put a new battery in and checked the big ends on the crank. All a uniform (thrust and slack faces) 2.125"-2.129". Wow. So the crank is good on that, I didn't feel like fighting the main bolts tonight, l will pull those and check the mains too (and bearing fitment) another day. Going to try to to the DMV and get the title put in my name tomorrow. Phil

I'll pass, I'm quite happy with my modem Pelican on the back- it's properly reflective, more for people to see at night!

Interesting, all the documentation and jobsworths at the DMV said that you cannot take a retired, age-related plate and re-use it on any vehicle.

Well, I don't plan on this being anything near a high performance engine. If it runs, that's good.

The old poly pistons from the other block are what I'm used to- the wrist pin is a tight fit in the piston and the conrod floats on the wrist pin. The new ones the pin is an interference fit in the con rod and the wrist pin floats in the piston. The latter feels.. wrong from an engineering standpoint; is that correct for this? I'm used to the wear point being the rod, not the piston. I've never had an engine with press fit pins before. I guess it's the choice for higher redline RPM builds? (No chance of losing a retainer?) Phil Edit: "Pee hole to the cam, numbers/locks to the outside" is apparently the rule on this, forgot that rule with old V8's.