B.Liesberg

Does anyone have info on the oil return check valve that is supposed to be located on the rear main seal drain? I can't seem to find it in my car and I want to make sure everything is proper when I put it back to-gether.

Alright, I picked up another head nearby, and I'm going to have it magnafluxed, if its bad, I'll probably get yours.

I just need the head, my crank is good and I want to switch away from Babbitt bearings. 1938 would probably be a good candidate though, since I know it's the same variation of the 320 as mine.

'39

I found a guy in LA that has a head for $75, it doesn't look quite the same though. Serial number is in the 800,000's and mine is around 1,300,000, will they still work? What do you want for yours? a NOS head would probably be my best bet for one with no issues. Could ship it freight.

As little as possible is my goal, this rebuild is racking up the bill fast.

As the title suggests, I'm rebuilding my 1939 320, and am looking for a new head. Would also like to find some insert bearing rods to replace the original babbitt rods (I know I can get mine redone, but that's expensive).

Didn't realize there was a response to this. Based off of old ads and the manual I ordered which lists variations in the truck models, we've confirmed that it's a '28 AA Capitol 1 ton.

Does anybody have a spare set of 320 rods that will take insert bearings? I'm planning on doing an engine rebuild and I'm trying to avoid paying $90/rod from Kanter.

Hello! A friend & I just purchased what we think is a 1928 Chevrolet Capitol 1 ton truck. We're not really planning on restoring it as we have some other cars that need more time & money put into them, but we'd like to get what's left of it running to have some fun in. Anyhow... I don't know a lot about Chevrolet trucks of this era, what are some differences we can look for to determine if it's a Capitol or a National? We're thinking it's a Capitol due to it only having rear brakes (the Manual says the AB has 4 wheel brakes). There's no body on it apart from fenders, lights, what's left of the radiator shroud, and a cowl that we are unsure is original to the car. I can try and take some pictures to-morrow and post them up.

I think I found the problem... Most of the wiring is original and a bit brittle. Looks like the oil pressure line popped out of it's clip and started chafing on the wire bundle going to the starter and shorted the switch wires.

I don't really have any issues with not having this part, if anything it seems superfluous. I just wanted to check and see if there were any known problems with the solenoid before I get too deep into it. I'll try and diagnose some wiring problems and see if I have an issue somewhere.

There is nothing on the carb with wires sticking out. There was an open spot on the passenger side of the carb that looked like there was supposed to be something there at one point... I put a metal cover over it because there was a slight vacuum leak through it.

There is a button under the dash to start the car.

Where does the electrical system and the vacuum system meet?

It looks like a solenoid, not a pneumatic system.

On my 39 Century, the starter solenoid is engaging while the engine is on and grinding on the starter ring gear. I'm going to check the wiring later to-day to see if it's bad somewhere, but I wanted to ask to see if this is a common problem caused by something else before I go crawling around under the dash.

The gear kits for the 320 I've been seeing are onIy $60 or so, but I doubt putting new gears in a worn housing will fix anything. Thanks! I'll try to contact him.

Mine is definitely steel, but the problem is the pump housing is worn on the driven gear side about as much as the plate is, so I think I need to replace the entire thing. I'm not even sure how it got that bad.

They have been worn about .060" deep, I don't think I can sand it out. The gear teeth look fine, but I'm not sure how much wear they have on the ends after seeing the housing.

Sorry it took a while to respond, I've been really busy. We dropped the oil pan last week and found the oil pump housing and cover plate have excessive wear. I believe this is the cause of my issues. Does anyone know where I can get a new oil pump?

10W30 and almost a month. I also added some motor honey to the oil as well. I'm dropping the pan to-morrow to check the bearings & pump.

Thanks!

As the title says, the oil pressure in my 39 Century goes down to 0 (or almost 0 hard to tell) at idle when the engine is fully warmed up. Oil level is fine. Could this be an issue with the oil pump or a gasket in the oil pickup line?

Not really prewar, but I used to strap a portable cassette tape player in my Jeep's passenger seat. Worked decent and was a rugged enough machine to handle off-roading.