B.Liesberg

It does have the tube, but it's hard to attach it to the car without the elbow also being attached

I assumed the 320's were mostly the same. But it's a 39. Here is the valve And it attaches where that little brass plug is It's some sort of drain for gasoline or other liquids in the intake manifold. I assume it drains anything in there whenever the engine is shut down. I've just rebuilt the carb and replaced that valve with the brass plug seen in the second picture.

I've found that I have a few induction leaks, I think the elbow shaped check valve right under the carb is part of the problem (sorry I don't know the correct term for it). Does anyone know where I can find a new or NOS one of these? Or is there a replacement part that works just as well?

Poor compression. It also misfires a lot at idle. There was a lot of sludge in the engine when I purchased the car, I think it was helping plug up some of the gaps. When I flushed the oil system I think I removed a lot of it leading to the engine running crummy. It still drives ok, but I would rather not drive it excessively if there is a lot of wear and risk damaging it more severely.

Yes, it seems to have calmed down a bit, although I don't know if the problem is completely gone yet. I am considering rebuilding the engine now anyways though, I really didn't want to, but due to it running poorly I think that it may be my only choice.

Roughly 60-70% water.

That's why I'm working on it.

Honestly it looked pretty close to that when I opened it, I think someone else had gone through the system previously. But I cleaned it anyways. It boils over. I am aware of this, that's why I asked about a hi-flow thermostat and not a lower temp opening thermostat. I don't know if the coolant will be running through the system too quickly with a hi-flow or if the larger engine prefers it. I can try the acid cleaning too just to see what happens. I think part of my issue too might be timing &/or mixture. I have a friend coming over this morning with his engine analyzer to help me get the engine tuned up properly.

I've done that already, not with a pressure washer though.

Calm down, I was just asking a question. I ran it with washing soda for about an hour, flushed it for a week with Vaporust , rinsed twice, and checked with a bore o scope. The inside looks fairly clean. If I end up removing the radiator for any reason I wouldn't mind taking it to the shop, but it looks like quite a hassle to remove. I wanted to ask about the thermostat first because it's cheaper/easier to work up from the simple solutions instead of run right to the most labor intensive/costly one and work down. Reminds me of the 2 guys who went cross country in their flatfenders, and one of them was unable to get the engine to engage the driveshaft, they spent a day disassembling the entire drivetrain assembly on the side of the road in the desert, only to find out the transfer case was in neutral.

I'm still having overheating troubles in traffic, I cleaned out the cooling system and have fresh coolant. The thermostat currently in the engine is a standard 160 degree. I have a spare 160 hi-flow, would it be better to install that one or would that cause the coolant to flow through the radiator too fast?

Looks like the small u-bend tube going from the block to the rocker shaft was plugged up a bit with some gunk. I cleaned it out and checked the rocker arm shaft with a small oil can and oil seems to flow freely through it. So, now my next question is how do the valves get lubricated?

That would be useful information wouldn't it? 1939 Century.

I was checking the rocker arms & valves yesterday when I noticed that it didn't seem like any oil was getting to them. I detached the oil line going to them that was on the side of the engine & oil did come out (not sure if there's a blockage in the valve train yet though). There appears to be oil everywhere under the valve cover, but there's just no signs of it exiting the rocker arm shaft anywhere. Should I see oil coming out? Or does it go somewhere internally after exiting the rocker arm shaft?

I just replaced the fluid in the front shocks and it made a world of difference in the ride quality. I think I'll have to remove the wheels to get to the rear shocks, but I think the ride will be 1000x better when they're all done.

It says model 61 on the dataplate, as well as Century 61 on the (I'm assuming) original paperwork. It also says Century on the piece of trim across the bottom of the hood and has a 126" wheelbase. Plus there's really no extra room to make the engine any bit larger, probably not even a couple inches.

This exact problem pops up with quite a few Jeeps as well (mine has an insane amount of play because of it). I plan on putting in whatever is recommended by the manual (or you guys).

That's kind of what I was figuring. That's my next step.

So a number of you might already be aware from my other topic that I just purchased a 39 Century. I noticed that it gets hot in traffic while driving it home. I was told by a guy that I ordered a few parts from that he put a 6v fan on the front of his cars and it solved that problem. I was wondering what thought you all had on this and if it works, what's the best method of installing one? It seems like the front end of the radiator is locked up tight behind a lot of body panels and the grille (which looks like I have to remove from the inside...).

Well I picked it up for $12k to-day and drove it from Long beach back to San Diego. It ran a bit hot a few times, but other than that it drove fine. I'll flush out the radiator and change the oil.

Alright, I'll stick with the Century.

What is the top speed of the 1935 Buick 57 Sedan? I just got back home and saw someone posted one for not much more in fully restored condition. It looks very nice, but I was just wondering if it'll do highway speeds as easily as the Century.

Well I think I'm going to take a final look and possibly pick it up to-morrow.

What would you sell that set for? And how much does the welt go for?