BEMSTER 3

Haven't had time to take the wheels off again like Ronnie suggested, but I will update once I am able to do so. It's not the front brake hoses though, as I said in my first post I had them replaced to no avail.

Turns out I had a bulb burned out in the back that I overlooked. Replaced that, and my issue is resolved.

Having the exact same problem with my '90, signaling left works fine but right will not flash. No bulbs seem to be burnt out. Does anyone know if the OPs issue was resolved?

The pump does run, and it seems to be holding pressure well. I haven't done the fluid drop test yet, but I will go and do that right now. The accumulator was recently replaced so I have done a few of these tests already.

I actually flushed the system myself before bringing it to the shops, so the brake fluid is still fresh.

I've had my Reatta for several months now, and although it was incredibly poorly maintained it and doesn't make financial sense to keep fixing it, I've grown attached to it. That said, I've hit an issue that may scrap my car. Both front brake calipers are failing to retract all the way from the rotor and as I understand it, they have been for longer than I've owned the car. Obviously it has negatively impacted the braking of my car and I can't take it on the highway. I've taken it to several shops and the brake hoses and calipers on the front have already been replaced, but the best anyone can tell me is that there is some sort of problem with the brake pump. Basically, what I need to know: Is the brake pump easy enough to replace for an inexperienced owner? Is it worth buying a $400+ pump when the car itself is only worth around $1500? Thanks to anyone that can help, I would really like to keep this car on the road as so many of them have disappeared already.

You are right, I confused the fuel pump with the brake pump. Turns out I'm just impatient, as the lights went away after 45 sec and did not come back. Brake pressure is still good, takes 5 pumps now for the brake pump to run and the pedal doesn't sink anymore. Thanks to everyone for their help.

I installed my new accumulator and followed all the steps correctly (I thought), but I am getting mixed results with it. While the pedal no longer sinks to the floor like it used to, now both brake lights turn on and stay on whereas before they would only flash on as the pedal was depressed. When I turn the car on, I can hear the pump go on for a few seconds and quit but I can't figure out why the lights won't go off. Here is the accumulator I ordered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS-Accumulator-Ball-Delco-25528382-Compatible/311491977981?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649. I bought it before any of you had mentioned the WABCO unit, and while it is a bit larger in height and diameter, it does seem to fit just fine.

After replacing my front brake calipers, I belatedly decided to test my accumulator to see if it was the real cause of my braking woes. Unfortunately, all signs seem to indicate that it is on its way out. Where can I get a working accumulator for a reasonable price?

Do you still have the headlight switch and taillight letters?

What color is the exterior?

I attached a toggle switch to the pink wire, and it works perfectly. Thanks guys.

One of the most irritating things about my Reatta is that it is missing the letter K on the tail light. Would anybody with a parts car be able to sell me this one letter?

Hello everyone. My Reatta is in pretty poor shape, but one of the few things that works great is the power antenna. I would like to install a switch on the wire that powers it so that it will not go up every time I turn on my headunit to listen to CDs. However, I cannot tell which wire powers the antenna. Could somebody tell me which one I should install the switch on?

Alright, so here's what I did... Unplugged oil pressure sender only - still starts Unplugged oil pressure sender AND fuel pump relay - does not start Unplugged fuel pump relay only - still starts

I should probably clarify at this point that I based this assumption on the mileage not improving by how far the gas gauge had moved, not by an actual calculation. I now know that my Reatta is getting almost 22 in-town, having used a full tank. The starting issue seems to be unrelated completely.

I swapped a few relays around and didn't see any change. I also tried once without any relay plugged into the fuel pump and saw no difference. The car has still not failed to start but has been very intermittent. Yesterday it almost stranded me at a thrift store but today it's starting just as well as it usually does (not well, that is). Should I replace the relay anyways and see if there is a difference?

I'll try to get that relay replaced soon. Hopefully that helps resolve my issue. It would be pretty ironic if I spent all this money fixing other things when the real issue was a bad relay.

Just a small update as a bit has happened to the car since I last posted. I decided to take it to a shop to get a professional opinion, and they replaced the o2 sensor, cleaned the injectors, and replaced the fuel filter. Since then the strong exhaust scent has gone away but the mileage does not seem to have improved appreciably and it is starting even worse than ever. This morning I was worried it wouldn't start at all, but it did eventually after about 4 or 5 seconds. I'm not sure how to proceed now and I am afraid to put more money in the car if it isn't likely to solve the issue. I'm also worried that one of these days it isn't going to start at all. The only upside is that it does seem to start ok after it has warmed up.

I ended up replacing the plug wires and ignition coils as well as the plugs themselves and... no change. It still starts hard, has a strong smelling exhaust (a symptom I forgot to mention earlier), and based on some very rough math I did from the fuel gauge mileage is the same. I suppose I will tackle the o2 sensor next. I am assuming all three of these symptoms are related, does anything come to mind that could be causing them?

Finally started replacing the spark plugs. Only half way there, but if the old plugs are any indication it looks like replacement was long overdue... Now I'm no expert, but I don't think it takes an expert to tell these plugs were in pretty bad shape. Hopefully I'll solve my hard starting and mileage issues once I get the back three replaced as well.

Finally got around to installing all the speakers and the headunit, everything sounds great. I bought two pairs of Pioneer speakers for the front and back and a basic JVC CD player along with an adapter kit and harness. The whole deal only set me back $130 and it doesn't look too bad either. The only problem is I forgot to plug the radio antenna in, but I never use the radio so I'll deal with that later. Removing the door panels was not the most fun I've ever had but that aside it was simple to install everything.

The codes I got were b448H, b552H, b671C, b673H, r021H, and r034H. Only one of them is current and I don't believe any of them have anything to do with engine performance.

Side note, I didn't get any E codes but I did get several B codes in history and two R codes in history. What does an R code mean? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

I just checked the codes (for the first time, I must admit) and the only current code I got was for the cruise control. I've been meaning to replace the spark plugs anyways since the car always seems to start poorly, so I'll try to do that next weekend. Could fuel grade be another factor here? I've been using 87 octane since I got the car a month ago.