DShoes

Thanks Tom. Makes total sense.

Those look pretty good. Do I gather that removing the machine screws at the back allows the disc “sandwich” to open for cleaning with one set of spikes in each disc? And it’s only secured to the wheel via those spring tensioned teeth?

71GS, exactly. RivNut suggested the same on using plain steel wheels and provided a great diagram but others have suggested the rally wheels would work. Since I have no experience with hub caps, I’m not clear on how they attach to the wheel. Buying another set of wheels and switching over the tires also adds effort + cost.

To be clear, I want to put the ‘63-‘64 hub caps I attached of a picture of on my ‘65 which has the standard rally wheels. I would prefer the “R” logo spinners. Appreciate your info but I prefer the look of the crossing spokes on 63-64 hub caps. If I can source a pair for a fair price, I’ll reach out to you regarding your “R” logo spinners. Thanks Turbinator.

Thanks all. I appreciate the advice. Any guesses at what a fair price range is for a set?

Hi All. I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to Riviera hubcaps. I've always liked the looked of the '63-'64 wire hubcaps with dual spinners like these pictured (except with the "R" emblem) and thought they'd go great on my '65 resto mod. Will these fit or can they be made to fit on the standard 15" rally wheels found on the '65s? Or do I need to look at a separate set of wheels to accept these hubcaps? What is a fair price for a clean set these days? Thank you for educating me. David

Thanks for the tip. Yikes. At $599 does the book do the sanding and polishing too?

I'm not seeing the Eastwood set you're referring to, Ed, but I like you're thinking and will see what I can find on trim restoration sets.

So...any experience with the Restopart in question? I’m clear on the existing stock available. What I’ve been seeing has damage that can’t be polished out. And it costs as much (or more) than the Restopart.

Hi All. Weighing options on new windshield molding for my '65. Looking for as clean as possible without breaking the bank. Does anyone have any experience with the repro kit from Restoparts? I'm a little confused as they are very specific that their kit is only three pieces (instead of 5) and does appear not to include the pair of vertical posts that go on either side. Also curious how well they fit. Here's a link to the kit in question: https://www.carid.com/restoparts/windshield-molding-set-mpn-br03310.html?singleid=2909719405&url=15195467 Thanks.

Nicely done. Looks pretty respectable to me. How long do you think it took you start to finish? Out of curiosity, where did you get your floor mats? They look much better than my OPGI "Riviera" mats which seemed to starting fraying on day 2.

Thanks guys. Great advice. When I told my wife I was thinking of trying to do the vinyl change over myself she just rolled her eyes. Apparently I’ve developed a reputation for biting off a little more than I can chew! I think now it’s best to leave this one to the pros and focus on the 6 other projects already started. Great to get the validation on Clark’s as well. Now if one of these lotto tickets would just pay off...

Good to know. Looks they are $1080 for the full custom vinyl from Clark's. Guess you do get what you pay for. Has anyone ever done the switch themselves? My upholstery guy wants $1500 to remove and replace which includes adding some lap belts in the rear. Also tighten springs, refresh foam and grease seat tracks. Seems a bit high but maybe its more difficult / labor intensive than I think?

Hi All, I'm looking at full vinyl kits for my custom Saddle interior. What are people's thoughts in terms quality v price with the options out there? OPGI runs about $640 and is supplied via Distinctive Industries (I've heard not great in terms of quality). Old Buick Parts / Cars has them for $989 (supplier unknown) and it seems Clark's Corvair has them but I can't figure out the price / manufacturer. Appreciate any thoughts / opinions. Thanks.

I have not. That will be my next step. Thanks Ed.

Hi All, I'm converting from the original thin plastic steering wheel in my '65 to a wood wheel and need the correct hub. It should have a straight turn signal cancel pin and horn button. Reference pics below. Thanks for any tips on where to find.

Hi Art, Any luck finding your hub? I am in the same boat (converting to wood wheel) but for my '65. Don't have the correct hub and can't find it... Have everything else. David

My upper bumper was already off, so I can’t say for certain one HAS to have it removed. If yours is on, you might see what access to valence side bolts looks like.

Sure, Seafoam. You're assumption is correct in terms removing the grill + valence as one assembly. There are three valence end bolts on either end and four that run across the span - two either side of the radiator. Two bolts of the three bolts on each end also serve to anchor the pivot point for the clamshell actuator arm. The valence end bolts are accessible from underneath the car, but I did have both front bumpers removed for other reasons which helped with access. Going through a hole left by removed park lamps wouldn't work because you would not be at the head of the bolt. Hopefully the photos below help illustrate.

Yikes. Not good. This car has been living inside for the last year or so, so hopefully there's no gunk in there, but we'll see here soon.

Ed, Next up is pulling the clamshells. Fenders will need to come off and be replaced, but I was going to leave that to the pros down the line. Out of curiosity, what sort of things do you find lurking between the fender / inner fender?

Success! Grill studs defeated and old grill removed. Thank you, gentlemen! Of course now that the bumper filler is off and headlight motor fully exposed, that's going to need a deep clean and re-grease... The trip down the rabbit hole continues!

Great suggestions on the removing the bumper filler and freezing. I’ll give those a shot and report back. Thanks guys!

Yes.

Maybe its my wrenches but I physically cannot get two wrenches on the double nuts. The studs are somewhat recessed beneath some flanged sheet metal (if that makes sense) making it an awkward angle to reach at with mostly straight wrenches. Heat is a thought but if I can't grab the studs to begin with...