Summershandy

Like this sir? Sure felt like it belonged there. I was going to say I'm inclined to make a bracket for the tube seeing how it can bounce around. You since posted your pic so back to the garage I go!

Like they say...pictures are worth a thousand words. I found it odd that the exhaust bracket was mounted right on a bend. I'll have to take a looksy and see if I can make it work off the bell housing. Kinda wish I had that draft tube bracket too. No sense making it if I don't know the proper angle. Thanks for the invite to the union.....little far for this Northerner. Enjoy!

Good observation John and valid point. Is this not the original exhaust pipe mount then? Now that you mention it, exhaust is usually mounted to the frame but with those brackets that have rubber in between the frame and the clamp. I may consider doing that now....thanks for more work! LOL I'm actually cleaning up the car nice and purty like today for the first car show this weekend. Man do I ever miss them. Couple of them have been cancelled already and it's been 2 years since this one. I'll try to post a couple pics of it later on.

Thanks, I made sure the oil filler cap was to spec and the road tube can't be made to much more vertical without hitting the exhaust.

I had submitted a picture where my road tube was included. Charles had mentioned that it needed to be more vertical. I don't have the same before pic but it was sitting just above a cross member and above the exhaust. I took it off and cleaned it and re-positioned. You can see it's closer to the exhaust clamp now. It actually does look better and possibly work better..... any thoughts?

When I removed and reinstalled the tube, I placed it back to where it was. No where in the manual can I find the proper position unlike the oil filler cap. I see my road tube sits above part of the frame. I thought it was leaking a bit so I would rather it drip there than on the exhaust. As it sits....how more vertical you think it should be? Reason I'm asking is I'm under doing an oil change and now may be the time to adjust. Thanks

When I first got my car the gas gauge read full. OP said I'm getting a full tank. The fuel tank needed repairs so I pulled the sending unit.....couldn't move the darn thing! Picked up a new one from CPR complete with the sock on the end.

Definitely for the crankshaft. I changed mine and recognize the notches on the outside.

When I reinstalled the switch, I looked how far left and how far right you can adjust it. I picked around the middle and tightened it down. I had to move the car today and it didn't quite fire up first crank. Second try... just a click. Many it's not fully contacted inside? So I'll move it a little and keep trying. There is only about 1/2" travel for adjusting.....this is gonna take time!

I decided to remove the switch and check it out. I was surprised how easily it can be taken apart. The 3 tabs are easy to bend back. Then if you refer to Charles pic, you can tap it apart by the black tab. Inside are 2 copper contacts, those are for the starter and the silvery ones are the reverse lights. There's a disc with dimples with a spring underneath. To note, nothing went "boing" so no fear there. It wasn't as ugly as I though but I lightly sanded the disc dimples and took a dremel to the contacts and lightly made them shiny again. The surface inside seemed a bit gooey so I figured that would be a lubricant, so I cleaned that up and gave it a light film of dielectric. Put it back together and guessed it's adjustment. It started first crank. I'll play a bit with the adjustment if needed and re-post any changes and results. Sorry for the quality of pictures but you get the jist....not my camera!

I remember when I got the click, I would hold the key in start and wiggle the shifter in hopes of making better contact, thus confirming the switch. I also played with adjusting it. It would either start or not start in neutral. I haven't taken it out much lately but it even seems to turn over a little stronger and quicker. If the weather holds out today I'll take it out for more start and stops.

Thanks for the nudge 55er! Crawled underneath mine and I'm missing that spring hence the spring confusion. Guess it's not that critical?

Gladly, if I could find one and it didn't break the bank!

True in stating the solenoid is making the click and not generating enough to spin the starter. I've gone through the primary and secondary wiring, connections and ignition switch. I've also inspected the solenoid inside, turned the bolt contacts and cleaned the plate. So far the car starts each and every time with the neutralizer switch bypassed and that's ok with me. Besides, it looks like a new solenoid is gonna cost me around $300. I'll repost after many more rides to confirm any further starter issues.

Dang sweet!

I picked up my replacement from California Pontiac.

Thanks but every connection in the car to the best of my knowledge has been cleaned thoroughly. It must be for 6 volt operation. It has to be internal. Wiring is also solid. You can see from the original pic how rusted the outside of the switch is. I suspect some crept inside. I've since cleaned it including the screw heads. It may look new but doesn't work new.

Ah yes....I actually have a can kickin' around. Hard to say if it'll even seep in there but worth a try!

Well, it may be too soon but I've taken the car out the past 2 days and started it over a dozen times. I haven't had the click no crank issue that I've had in the past. It used to happen every couple starts or so. I'm kinda convinced the problem lies in the switch. It's too bad it can't be rebuilt because I like the originality....but I also like it starting each and everytime! I've heard of people shooting some WD into things but I don't want to really mess it up. It still works and is required for a road worthy certificate for (gulp) resale. Any thoughts on bringing more life back to the switch?

Yes those other two wires are indeed back up lights. I wondered why one wouldn't just take the white wire off the switch and connect it directly to the solenoid to bypass. Reason being the wire terminal doesn't fit on the solenoid terminal, it's too small. Probably to deter one from eliminating the safety switch. I had forgotten how corroded everything was including the switch. The pic must have been just after getting the car. Everything's been cleaned, painted or replaced.

I want to test my switch and don't want to fry anything out. The manual states, "disconnect two starter solenoid circuit leads from neutralizer switch and connect them together." I'm assuming it's the two wires at the switch? Let's call them black and white. I've highlighted them with white arrows. Disregard the old picture.

Good Job!

Car seems to ride a little smoother with the factory recommended tire pressure. Did some mean cornering and felt OK. The front did increase by 2 lbs but it's still quite cool up here....we still have snow. I'm going to wait until later in the summer and take the readings again after an afternoon cruise.

If anyone is interested in lessons on being a bonehead....just message me. I had failed to mention that during this episode, I decided to check the points. Haven't looked at them in 2 years since new. Nice and clean with no pitting. Gap seemed to be a little tight so I adjusted them. Maybe I didn't have them perfectly on the cam but I went back in and rechecked and the gap was too wide. I took more time to be careful and got them spot on. I would have never believed just a little change in the gap would make the engine run like total crap! It's purrs like before and has lots of pep during cruise. MMO is off the hook! Oh, and thanks to Grimy....I now have a full tank of gas.