Summershandy

I'm with Alfre. I was able to get the original 6 volt battery that fits in the battery tray perfectly locally. Think tractors use them. Even it's a beast to behold! I read that 6 volt systems are reliable as long as the connections are clean. I had a blast learning about them, things like "polarizing" the generator. My ride is staying original. Read, read, read and search Grizz. I didn't know sh** about these cars before I got mine. The internet and this forum will be your best resources. Cheers!

Oh, and any bolts will work.

I took my plate off like 10 months ago and they've been sitting in a bag ever since. I barely remember but I have 2 plates. The bottom one goes on top of the one above. I think they may sandwich between the floorboards. I won't find out until it goes back and that'll be last on my list. My memory ain't what it used to be, hope this helps.

I see a little better now. If one needed to change an inner tie rod, one would remove both end plugs, cups and springs in order to do so. The tie rods could then be removed and the rest could be inspected. Neat thanks.

The threaded plug just needs to be turned back in solid then backed off to the nearest cotter pin hole. That's for the '54 Pontiac. The suspension is apart anyway and I've since installed new outer tie rods along with king pins, etc. When it goes in for it's road inspection it'll need an alignment also. I just wondered if the spring makes putting the plug back in difficult.

I wanted to take a peak behind the plug on the connecting rod in the steering linkage. The cut-a-way picture in the shop manual isn't too clear. I removed the cotter pin and started to unscrew the plug and the whole rod gave a shift. What's behind this plug? Are there springs? I'm not removing it in case it comes popping out and I can't get it back in. I does feel like it's under some force.

Now that you mention it, when I was stripping the paint off the cleaner I came across a ghost of a decal that looked orange and had that shape. I shook my head thinking the PO just spray painted over it. I like the idea of originality, would it be wrong in placing "unoriginal" decals where they don't belong?

Not yet but thinking about it. I had removed the cover in order to fix a leak and seeing how accessible the gear and chain was I figured it was worth doing. I need to get a feel for the car this summer including the transmission.

One of the first things people ask is, "ya, but can you get parts for it?" LOL

Thanks Todd, I've been pulling my parts from CPR and those seals aren't cheap but worth it. Just a note to give you an example of the cost of repairs from Canada. $28 USD = $35 CDN + duty (13% sales tax) = $39.55. Those seals will cost me pretty much $40 each.(double ouch!) If I didn't pick them up at the border (45 mins away) I could incur brokerage charges too. I am very lucky to have a receiving depot that close. I've been quite happy with the parts available and looks like they have enough to get the car on the road this summer.

Hey Tinindian, there are indications both my axle seals are leaking ever since I purchased the car. It's one of the jobs on my list. The vent was clear of debris so it wasn't the culprit? I'm guessing they ran their life expectancy?

Goodness, it sounds like an axle vent. Never knew they existed. I obviously need to work on vehicles harder and research better before posting! Sorry guys.

Finished removing and matching the rest of the lines. Just those 2 up front were too long. The rest look good. Brake lines have to be the messiest even when you try your best. The last line removal I had cut up plastic bags and elastics at the ready! After I bled them empty of course.

Bolt that holds the brake line junction block on the rear axle. Hollow right through with a purty lookin' cap on top! Curious to hear about this one. Thanks!

LIke Bill said, my lines came in the same way with 2 of them bent with approximately 6" radius. Very easy to straighten. I expected a large box as I paid for oversized shipping. I was surprised when I got them. I've seen much bigger boxes shipped. Think I got hosed there on shipping. I did the main brake line to the rear last night. I have a metal heater duct that goes through the frame and comes up under the seat. It looked to me they bent the line to go under this duct. The original line went over the duct which enabled it to be fastened to the original clips on the frame. If I followed their bends, the line would have to be reconnected with new fasteners. Some of the bends I still don't understand, some seem opposite. Left when right and up when down. So, I rebent that line to match the original, fastened them to the clips and thankfully was long enough to reach the bracket where it meets the rear brake hose. I guess the end of the story and if I had to do it all over again, especially with an older car, I would do my own. Matching the original bends make for a good fit IMO. I just paid more money to have lines roughly the correct length already flared....mostly.

Yup....shipping the lines wouldn't be cost effective. It really isn't that big of a deal as I'm getting handy at line bending now. I'm matching them to the old line and going from there. Cut the excess and flare. They've made most of the bends and I haven't confirmed the main line and rears yet though the one on the axle looks OK. If the rest are good, I suspect the confusion lies where they meet up at the junction block under the master cylinder. There must have been a few different configurations. I was really asking if anyone else shared the same experience.

Ya I think they are from Michigan. They have kind of a disclaimer and if you need them exact to send them the original lines. I just assumed they have made many for my style car.

I guess I failed to mention although they aren't really seen, I was trying to keep the car original as I could and thought this would be another way. I'm also not a big fan of multiple joints thinking more of a chance to leak. But ya, definitely easier to install. Had fun doing a 15 foot fuel line!

I knew someone like you would make them old school. I did make my own fuel line from the original but it doesn't need to be flared so much. It's too late for me now but, if I was to do it again I would go your route.

I received the brake lines for my '54 Pontiac from the supplier. I don't know if it's good etiquette to mention them. I do realize that they may not have the identical shape due to the vehicle's age and what not. They recommend shipping the originals for them to make but living in Canada doesn't make that happen. There's 6 pieces in total. I've matched up the first 2 to the originals and found MOSTLY correct bends. Both have the incorrect bends at the end and are much longer. Bending them back into shape isn't a big deal but now I have to get a flare kit, cut and flare. Could be worse and the lines could be shorter. Chances are the rest will be incorrect also. I'm wondering if it was even worth the cost now seeing I have to do some bending and flaring anyway. This is what I was trying to avoid. Anyone else have this issue and is it a typical thing? I haven't flared in over 40 years but a least there's some videos out there now!

Nice

No wait, that doesn't make sense as I look closer at the picture. The hole is in a groove around the bolt so turning wouldn't seal it. New question, does the orientation of the hole matter or is it just there to allow fluid pressure to reach and operate the switch?

Today I tackled my master. When I removed the block holding the switch, I noticed the bolt has a hole through it. Of course I didn't notice the orientation but I'm thinking, if you needed to change the switch maybe you'd back off the bolt and tilt the block thus plugging the hole as not to get air in the system? I think the tricky part will be making sure the hole faces the switch when I reinstall. Pretty neat if that's the case. Oh, the block doesn't seem brass either as I was warned not to crack them, they might be hard to come by. This one is really stained and dirty.

Thanks for the heads up!

Thanks PP, I haven't much luck with NAPA here in Canada for parts. I know the boys pretty good. I hate taking chances kits will fit too. I'm sinking some good money in this so a little more shouldn't hurt. Thanks for the FYI, it's always good to know alternatives. Cheers!