Summershandy

Shoot....forgot about tech. Thanks.

I had your same thoughts Spinneyhill until I read up on it. There are exceptions however, but I doubt it applies here: "Often times, non-servo or leading-trailing systems will use interchangeable front and rear brake shoes. The non-servo system can get away with this because it applies the same pressure to the both shoes. Alternately, a self-energizing system may use front and rear shoes that are the same length, but use different types of friction material to modulate the pads' engagement strength for either front or rear applications." It was no bother making the shoes as original.

Made my primary's tonight. Easy peasy taken from the thread. Good to know.

Well who woulda thunk? Thanks Frank! That sounds like a great idea and an easy fix.

I've already done my front brakes '54 pontiac and put primary/secondary in their proper place. I'm just doing the rear and noticed that both the new shoes have the same length lining. The original's look like the typical longer/shorter lining. In other words it looks like my new rear shoes are both secondary's. Anyone else had the same concern?

As for jack stands, I've always used the type with the lever to release it back down. Been leary of them so I used other supports along with them. This winter I purchased 2 more. Now they are made with pins along with the familiar levers. What did that tell me? Some poor shmuck probably hit the release lever while the car was up. I don't think you can ever be too cautious when you're under a ton of metal.

CPR parts catalogue shows 1937-54 Pitman shaft seal, standard steering

Just another name for "passing gear" we used years ago. That was the word I was looking for.

At first I didn't understand but just got it....that's crazy! Most our highways here are 2 lane and transports galore so you get quite good at weaving in and out to pass....that and a powerful overdrive!

Better yet, here is a picture from the manual. It makes no mention of checking an o-ring for external leaks so hopefully this is not the case. The middle picture is the shaft seal I'm replacing. It's behind the side cover and it's where the throttle rods connect. There's a pin holding the smaller shaft which tells me the smaller shaft would be removed by pushing it in or moving it to the right. This is impossible because of the assembly and IMO would have to be dismantled. This smaller shaft turns within the outer shaft so there must be a seal of some sort in there. I'm not overly concerned and that's why I haven't posted anything about it. If it leaks this summer it leaks.

Yes. I think the pitman arm seal leaks somewhat so I may have to change that out someday. Some guys just shoot straight grease in there. You can read up on the debate about the different viscosities.

Wow cool

Ya they were too small. I was going to auto parts and industrial shops. Must be more transmission related. There's a gasket for the cover. I'm also replacing the shaft seal and it came with a small o-ring and pin. I suspect where it goes but the way I see it, the tranny would have to be disassembled. I don't think I can replace it. Hope the leak was mostly from the seal or I'll have to live with it. I'll try to take a pic later today.

Forgot to mention they are clamp on.

I received my mirrors today. I really do like them, or should I say it. I have to option to move or remove them. Definitely glad I went with convex. Also glad they fit where I wanted them because they are no other spots for them. The door is either too tight of a fit or the chrome trim gets in the way. Also remember reading that the passenger side is virtually useless. They were right. So I either run with one or both for aesthetic looks. I am also impressed with the quality for the price.

I had difficulty finding those copper washers until I dropped into a transmission shop....duh...

Never owned one but used one once in highschool. Been wrenchin' for close to 40 years. I AM a human torque wrench! Maybe one day I will get one to "calibrate" myself. LOL but you are correct, there are many torque specs. Thanks Todd.

Thanks Spinneyhill....always appreciate a second or sometimes third opinion.

I ended up running around town to the local automotive and industrial shops today looking for Lubriplate 110. No one had it or could get it. I also spoke to a few and looked for a grease made of calcium sulfonate. A lot of blank looks there too. Educated some on that and lithium complex grease. My last visit was to an old school mechanic now behind the parts desk of today's technology. He thought the same as me. Today's grease has come a long way and we figure a good synthetic would have the additives, which I found in a lithium complex and would suffice. Some said just plain old bearing grease, but I'm not good with that. This is the best I can do.

Along with being resistant to corrosion, maintaining it's lubricating integrity and doesn't wash out, sounds a lot like brake grease to me. Permatex makes a few types.

One thing for sure....I ain't buying a pail of the stuff cuz it's all I'm seeing at the moment!

That made me curious too, as I have a tub of Lithium I use and have had for years. Never stop learning Todd...never stop learning. How does Spinneyhill spell those words? I can't even pronounce them!

I just changed out my rear axle seals and before reinstalling the axle shafts the manual states, "coat recess in axle housing, where bearing seats with Lubriplate 110. If I can't find any locally, what would be close to equivalent? Something along the lines of a brake lubricant?

I have the ribbed hoses and planned on replacing them before summer. I thought they looked retro but in light of this conversation, I too think I'll be ordering the new ones from CPR if they are smooth wall. Who needs added flow restrictions?? I just remembered using the ribbed part of paper straws on my model cars as rad hoses!

By the sounds of it, Charles has it most correct. If I had to guess, I would have re-installed those coppers at the bottom as suggested or just replaced them all. Making sure surface areas are flat, clean and bolt holes not dimpled like valve covers. Thanks Charles and Todd. One last interesting fact, People who didn't know or understand the reason for the copper washers just put the back on anywhere so it's easy to understand why some would not be in the right places today.