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Posts posted by DB26
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16 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
Never hurts to try...
I'm guessing (just a guess) that the dates she provided was based on historical research they've done to this point. You never know, yours may be the first 26' they come across..
Besides, with all the confusion around model years, title mix ups from previous owners (among many other reasons...) if I was in your shoes I'd still try and send for it, but that's just me..
If you decide not to you'll never know.
You’re right. I think I’ll give it a shot.
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Damn. Guess my 1926 is right before the cutoff.
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2 hours ago, lump said:
These radios are highly desirable, and pretty expensive. Good luck in your search.
Thanks. I will add that I’m willing to take a broken one since I could probably fix it.
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1 hour ago, nick8086 said:
I might have a 68 Mopar in the trunk of my car.. Not sure if it will be the same. and have a 8 track one.
Worth a look! Thanks for reply. I’ll PM you.
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Still in need. Photo added:
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19 hours ago, mobileparts said:
Your timing is sadly, terrible....
Chryslers @ Carlisle was a month ago -- &
Mopar Nationals was last week....
Good Luck in the quest...,
Story of my life. Haha Thanks
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Hello everyone. I’m looking for a factory am fm radio for my 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner. I believe the model number is a Bendix 9FBBCC
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2 Years later....
I moved the turn signals to the front. I just didn’t like the clutter and all the vacuum line needed to run to the rear.
The new wires and vacuum lines run out of the cab through the cowl lights. The cowl lights are now non functioning dummies and I didn’t have to drill any holes in the body. I’ll try to take some close up shots of the wires and vacuum lines soon. To get the vacuum through the small holes of the cowl mounting bolts, I used very thin hobby brass tubing and epoxied them in place. The vacuum line is slipped on to these connections with one set of connections on the inside of the car and the other set outside the car inside the cowl light. These then exit out the back of the cowl lights and run up the windshield channel with clips for a clean install.
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Here’s some information I have saved on the subject:
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I tapped/chased the threads on the front of my ‘26. They had been smashed in real good. Bought a Chinese tap off of eBay. Worked well. 1 5/8-16 tap.
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Hopefully other members here can confirm that for you.
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4 minutes ago, JayG said:
It’s white faced. The one in the pics.
I ended up finding the ammeter Machinist Bill posted a picture of. Currently installed in my Dodge Before I found the black faced ammeter, I ended up picking two white faced ammeters. One with the needle pointing up and another pointing down.
My Dodge was built after they switched over to 6 volt, but before they switched to the white gauges. Before the fast four too.
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13 hours ago, RichBad said:
Just found this topic searching for an Ammeter - I'm trying to find one for a Series 128/129. It's a white faced gauge and looking through a few threads it should be a 20 amp gauge with the needle pointing down. Even bits of one that could be repaired would be good. Any ideas? Were they US Gauge Co. or by someone else?
I might have one with the needle pointing down. Let me check my parts cabinet. I’ll get back to you after Tuesday. Possibly Tuesday afternoon.7 hours ago, JayG said:To answer DB26 question above. I have one of the ammeters with the needle pointing up that was removed from an early 27 sedan with the Type C motor in it. Pre Fast Four.
Is that the black faced type?- 1
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I passed up on this sign. Too many red flags.
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Do you have the width of the shade handy? I need one for my ‘26 Dodge. I’m at work, but in my notes I wrote I need one that is about 26 and 1/2 inches wide.
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Thanks everyone. Found. George at ROMAR found one for me.
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I had to do a double take when I read the title. I was about to run out and get something for pop. But then I remembered we just had ours. I didn’t know yours was in September. Happy Father’s Day to you Aussies.
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Yeah. eBay’s automated formatting of listings is terrible. I sold a few things that ended up going through their Global Shipping Program. I only found out when I got suspicious of the buyers address and Googled it. It was some sort of airport terminal halfway across the USA. The item got there okay, but I’ve heard bad things about it. I proofread very carefully my listings now.
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This sounds like the same guy (from Nevada) that tried to scam me about 3 years ago. Same story too. Dad died and left him (In my case) all his NOS Dodge parts. No pictures and money order required.
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16 minutes ago, Mark Gregush said:
I think part of the problem is you are missing the inner splash guard. I would clean the cap really well and solder one in. It will need a vent hole in it, but offset from the center. If that is the cap you are using, looks like a lot of rust flakes that can drop into the tank on it now.
Thanks for the advice. The picture is not my cap. I found the photo in another discussion on the topic from years ago.
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Thanks both of you. I don’t smell any either. I will have to investigate further into the mechanism. And trini, thanks for your thoughts. I have seen a few websites that say you can do a home repair of these mechanical gauges. The trick is submerging the bulb in salted ice water and being quick with the solder repair. That’s what I did to this gauge, as there was no bulb or most of the capillary tube present when I began. All I had was a nub to work with. The gauges’ needle moving at all is kind of a win for me.
Build Cards via the Chrysler Museum are still available
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Well said. I sent the email. We will see what she says.