RichBad
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Posts posted by RichBad
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Spring builder got back to me and said my springs are knackered. He was going to replace the top leaf on each one as they were very worn (and a couple had worn through the bushes and half way through the spring). However, after stripping them he said every leaf has significant wear.
would be 2200-2400AUD to re-manufacture a complete set (which seems OK given the amount of work and material it must take). It’s a lot to spend at the moment but I guess half worn springs is not a good thing given that they are the only link between the wheels and the rest of the car?
Are there any issues with remanufactured springs or is it better to find good used ones?
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Last batch of powder coating except for the chassis (which had its own problems).
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Made a start on it - taken the front end off to clear out the old ‘repairs’ and straighten out.
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Managed to draw up my chassis and take some measurements. Want to check front end and cross member drop heights from top of main chassis (seems to be flat from just in front of engine mounts to just behind rear cross member). I used a box section to check on my chassis as shown in the photo. All in mm (sorry:)).
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Thanks Ron, I think I have some material and should be able to make one and Bobs parts book had some dimensions.
Presumably it should be a tight fit on the generator shaft and is there to keep the sprocket drive shaft aligned with the generator shaft?
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Thanks for the reply Bob - I can draw it I just thought someone may have a side view already. The books I have all had top view not side too.
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Does anyone have a side view drawing of the Chassis? I wanted to record some dimensions and it would be better than me trying to sketch it:)
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Perfect, thanks Bob
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Any one know what material is used for the generator shaft sleeve ( the drive end).
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Next batch back from the powder coaters.
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Awesome, thanks so much all! Not sure what the deal with the extra ‘4’ in the part number as my numbers came out of the book and were also marked on the parts. Perhaps it indicates a manufacturing plant?
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Does anyone know the specifications/ dimensions for front and rear springs for a series 128/129 ‘fast four’ Tourer. Part number 34641 for the front and 34642 for the rear (not sure if they changed much between years but I think the fronts were the same for the different bodies but the rears may have been different for the tourers).
Distance between mounting centres and free camber would be ideal (and anything else if available)?
thanks!
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14 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
The gears fit between two flat plates. Are those plates smooth with no wear beside the gears? if there is wear it is best to machine those surfaces so there is very small clearance to the gears. Can you post pics of the top of the bottom plate and the inside of the housing?
Thanks, I added some photos to the original post. The bottom plate looks pretty good, there are some marks but nothing you can feel. The housing also looks quite good, there are a few localised corrosion pits but doesn’t look like there is a lot of wear. With the gears installed they sit flush (perhaps very slightly proud) to the body. There was a gasket between the body and bottom plate so I guess that gives some clearance to the gears. What size gasket should be used (assuming it is supposed to have one) and what endfloat should the gears have?
cheers
richard
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Oil pump ready to reassemble - any tips/tricks (appart from lots of oil).
Finished pump
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Thanks for your great help today Bob!
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Awesome, thanks Bob! Even better than having to make something if you have some old ones spare. Will give you a call later if ok with you as I need a few other parts to get me up and running.
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Hi,
i just got a reproduction generator endplate from vintage and classic reproductions (pot metal gave up on mine) but the new one is very slightly different from my current one. The new one has a threaded hole in the end for a fuse which my current one doesn’t have. I’m not sure what is correct for my model (I know the fuse moved to the cutout housing at some stage but my cutout doesn’t have a fuse either). Anyway, seems a good idea to have a fuse.
Does anyone have a photo showing the fuse holder and how it connect (I may try and make one) Presumably it just grounds the field coil?
photo below shows my old and new end covers.
Many thanks!
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9 hours ago, chistech said:
My 32' Olds has the same type of oil filled fan hub which I too, was going to change over to sealer bearings but all I needed to do was re-bush the hub.
I would have liked to keep mine original but unfortunately someone had previously replaced the main housing with a flange/bush assembly (which was knackered). I think the original pot metal casting doesn’t always last too well. Did yours have the gear pump at the front?
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Boyce motometer - had the rims and dogbone plated but couldn’t remove the thermometer from the body to get it plated (swaged in). I think the body is pot metal so I tried polishing it and it came up pretty well.
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On 30/09/2017 at 10:27 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint?
Ben
Photo below (not assembled to prop shaft & flange).
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3 hours ago, hidden_hunter said:
Same! I’m out in the south east - hope to see your car running about some time
Cool, I’m in Rowville so probably not that far.
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1 hour ago, hidden_hunter said:
Nice work, where abouts in Australia are you?
Thanks! Melbourne
1927/28 series 128/129 Fast Four frame/chassis
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Thanks Ron, I’m planning on riveting (gotta learn how first). Ive got some rivets but not sure if they are correct size. What are the dims for the ones you have?