john hess
-
Posts
498 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by john hess
-
-
-
GOT IT...... Thanks to all for the quick response. This forum is awesome !!!!. Took the plate off the bottom. Did the putty knife trick. Had to hit 3 points around the flywheel. Awesome wife helping also. Just kinda tough getting underneath. Belly not the same size as what it 40 years ago! I'm thinking that the newly refaced flywheel is not polished enough yet from use and quickly rusted in this damp weather. Oh well, maybe this will help convince wife I really do need a heated garage !! Thanks again John
- 1
-
Thanks Dave. That's what I was thinking. I'll let you know how it goes. I can pull the body off again if I have to. Just trying to not scratch everything up. Thanks, John
-
The body is back on, but now the clutch won't release !! This comes after the last 5 weeks of rain here in Southern Pa. The chassis was sitting outside covered but it is so damp and humid that I think the clutch is rusted to the flywheel. Any ideas before I decide to pull body off the frame again ???? Thanks John
-
I have an issue with the clutch on my 53 pontiac. The clutch will not disengage. I have just bolted body back on the frame. The chassis and running gear have been rebuilt. I have been driving the car (chassis and engine, no body) around the property for maybe 1 1/2 years with no issues. Now, recently I have been working on the underbody of the car. That work is done. The chassis was sitting outside covered up these past 5 weeks. Is it possible that the clutch disc is rusted to flywheel. If so, any suggestions ?? Here in Southern Pa we have been hit with about 20 inches of rain in the past few weeks. This is why I think it is stuck. What do you think?. I'm trying to avoid pulling transmission at this point. ??????? Thanks, John
-
OK, I'm going to ask for help on this one. I am replacing the vent seals in all 4 windows. I will be getting the fronts from Steele rubber. But I am not sure they make the rear ones. Can anyone verify if they have them ? Also, if anyone has rebuilt your own, would you have the information on the rivets. Sometimes the search for these items can be overwhelming. The glass and chrome frames are acceptable for the time being, but the seals are hard, cracked, and falling out. The car will soon be going to the paint shop and I'm trying to keep my momentum going. Thanks for your help in this matter. This forum is a wealth of information and experience for the novice restorer like me. Thanks. John
-
All lines were ordered from CPR if I remember. But In Line Tube was the manufacturer. Brake lines fit, but fuel line is a little too long at the tank hook up. Might cut and flare that later. Right now, I'm installing doors, again,.... Need to have them on to finish body bolt shimming. Then some sand blast and epoxy primer before I send it to paint shop. I'm doing as much as I can to keep my barn build budget down. Anxious for paint cause I have all of the exterior chrome back from Librandi just waiting to get back on the car!!
-
Hi Mark. Had to kinda laugh when I saw your issue with the exhaust a couple of weeks ago. Got mine from the same place. Same issue. Same bends off. His bender must need recalculated. Your picture could have well been of my frame also !!!. Did the same thing you did. Went to the local shop and did 2 simple tweaks. Fits fine now. As to the tank strap rubber, only one you see was what was on mine. They are for tank vibration. Manual says add a second one as needed. Apparently mine only needed 1. I did get the tank hooked up and running. No more temp tank in trunk ! John
-
That is the original tank, just cleaned and painted it
-
Thanks. Unfortunately in my case, I neglected to put this piece on the wall for reference. I have since learned to keep all parts, rusted hulksor not, for reference and measurements. At the time, this particular piece went to the scrap pile. Won't do that again.
-
Thanks Gary. One piece at a time, it's coming back together.!!
-
Nice car ya got there. My 53 is getting closer to being road worthy. Drive em, that's what they were built for.!! John
-
Got the sending unit installed after some frustration. Old unit did not have screen on pickup line. New unit has screen and that kept getting caught on inside baffle when trying to locate pickup line on tabs inside tank. Kinda hard to feel when you are working in the 'blind'. Other than that, install went well. Next on list, hook up tank and get rid of temp tank in trunk!!
- 1
-
Hi Charles. I'm good on those parts, thanks to Librandi in Harrisburg !. I am in need of stainless headlight trim rings though if anyone out there has them !
-
-
I am putting a new unit in the tank. It looks like the inlet end, by the filter, should go in the tabs inside the tank. If this is right,#1 how do you do this without splitting the tank? I can't seem to get it in there by 'feel'. #2 Is this important to get it seated in there?. It has been some time since I pulled the old one and I no longer have it to look for evidence of being attached inside. Any ideas on this. Thanks John
-
No problem. Thanks anyway. I still have time to find some. More rain here in southern Pa. About 2 weeks straight so far. Hope the sky dries out by the time fall Hershey show is here
-
It's a 2569wd paint code 5307. Hi Charles. I have been following your restoration also. Since you are here, would you happen to have any headlight trim rings ? Mine are in rough shape.
-
Did you have your carb apart by any chance? Mine has been wet since I rebuilt it and I'm pretty sure my float is set too high. That's why my intake/exhaust gaskets were wet also. Gas percolating through and running out intake runners when engine was not running. Since my body is not on frame yet it's easy to get to everything. I have been turning gas valve off on temporary gas tank and letting carb run dry before shutting down and this seems to have solved both problems. That's why I think my issue is the float !! May be part of your issue. Hope this helps.. John
-
Thanks . Firewall needs paint now, but it's raining again. I'm about 30 miles south of Hershey and we're getting more rain. Kinda tough to work in the leaky barn !! At least the liner will be cured. John
-
-
I just used some Upol
Raptor bed liner on the underbody of my 53 pontiac. I think it came out pretty well. Any one else ever use this product ?.. Hope to be putting body back on frame soon. Product says to cure 3-5 days before use but this is not a truck bed !! Getting anxious anyway..... John
-
Iam looking for a splash guard for my 53 l8 Pontiac. The one I need is located on the right side of the frame just below and slightly forward of the trans cross member. This is a 3 speed manual trans by the way. I believe it would have 4 mounting holes and a curved area that extends slightly under the exhaust and ends just before hitting the oil pan. The dimensions are roughly 16 x18.
I have only seen one in a photo and it was not a good one.
If anyone can confirm this with a picture of one I would appreciate it. The search is on for this is, I believe, the only piece missing in my parts that I have been collecting. ... John
-
Nice , I'm jealous. My 53 is still hanging in the barn. Waiting to paint the underbody. John.
53 pontiac clutch stuck
in General Discussion
Posted
Mercer09 I tried the alcohol thing, but the more I drank, I forgot what the straw was for.,