jdshott
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Posts posted by jdshott
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PP and Paul:
Thanks for those nice photos and discussion. When I have a chance, I’m going to talk to some folks that know a lot about 3D printing. I’m not sure they will do something like this for me. However, if I am not mistaken, the process is roughly:
1. Use a 3D printer to print a model in just about any material.
2. Send the model to someone like Steele Rubber. They make a mold from the original model and then use that to make parts out of their standard rubber material.
I don’t know what they charge for setup … and what the resulting per part would cost, but it seems as if it is worth exploring …
Thanks again for those photos.
John
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John:
Thanks for that input. At this point, my working theory is that Pontiac 6 and 8 used the metal timing hole cover starting in ‘41 through the end of the flathead era. I also thing that the ‘37-‘39 used the rubber cover, with 1940 being unknown.
Of course, I may be wrong and hope that anyone who knows differently will enlighten me.
Thanks again, John, for your response.
John
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Paul:
I have just creaated a new topic called "1937 Timing Hole Cover" and uploaded a few images. Based on what I know, I have a metal timing hole cover that was not actually used until about 1941 and later rather than what I believe to be a proper rubber timing hole cover.
Thanks,
John
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Vintiage Pontiac Flathead Owners:
In another thread Paul asked if I had a 1937 Pontiac timing hole cover and, if so, could I share pictures. I think that I have a two part answer: (1) Yes, I have a timing hole cover and (2) No, it is not from a 1937.
Here is a picture of the metal timing hole cover that I have: It measures 1 9/16" in length and 1 5/16" in width (approximately). I have also included a side and oblique view to show a bit more detail.
Finally, I have included the drawing of the clutch housing from my collection of multi-year Pontiac Master Parts books. The drawing for the 1937-38 clutch housing does not show the actual timing hole cover (part group 0.714), but it does show that all 1926-1936 Pontiac engines used part number 487833. It then lists 1938-1939 as part number 501383. The 1939 clutch housing drawing shows a rubber timing hole cover ... so the 1938 (and, I suspect, the 1937) used the rubber timing hole cover. Finally, the drawing for the 1041-1942 clutch housing shows the metal timing hole cover that I appear to incorrectly have on my 1937 6-cylinder engine. I don't know how far beyond 1942 they used the same metal timing hole cover.
If anyone has more details, I'm sure we'd appreciate learning something further.
Thanks,
John
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On 2/9/2019 at 10:38 AM, kookie1 said:
Super!!! John, seeing the underneath now really answers all my previous questions. I can see the slots and the support hangers, or whatever you call them, which give the box extra support for the weight of a battery. Thanks a bunch for the extra underneath shots. Those really helped! I think I can now reproduce what the original box looked like.
Paul
PS. I hope Yellowstone got the same snow Colorado recently got. We always have had plenty of snow there for downhill playing. Good luck doing some serious cross country!!
Have a great time and thanks again!
Paul:
I just got back into town and am looking at the March 2019 POCI Smoke Signals magazine … that has probably been out for several weeks. Do you receive that publication? There is someone that is advertising that they are selling a 1937 battery box. If you contact me privately, I will give you their contact information if you don’t already have it.
Good luck, John
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Paul:
I've tried, as best as I can to make measurments of my battery box. These cannot be taken as super-precise, but it should be pretty close.
I think that the whole thing started life as a flat piece of sheet metal 20" long, by 7" wide. In terms of the length, I believe that the flat bottom (underneath the battery) is 10 1/4" in length, a 90 degree bend on each side (that I estimate consumes 1/8" on length on each end. Then there is a vertical flat section on each end that is about 3 3/4" high. Finally, there are the tabs on each end that are about 1 1/2" wide and 1" in total length. My best estimate is that each tab is bent with approximately a 3/8" diameter with a total arc of about 135 degrees. I think that the bend starts at about 1/4" from the start of the tab which leaves about 1/4" once the bend is done.
Here is a sketch of the overall piece:
One curious thing that I notices as that the part under the battery has a width of 7" but the vertical sides are only 6 3/4" in width. Looking at the overall drawing, there is a "notch" taken out of the upper left and lower right corner that reduces the width of the sides from 7" to 6 3/4". Why is that there? I think that the walls are a little thinner to clear the diagonal cross member in the frame. I believe that the battery sits behind the frame piece labeled 7.039 in the frame drawing. In fact, I think that the front of the piece that we are discussing slips into the slots that must be in cross member 7.039.
Finally, I have tried to sketch a bit more details of the sides of the battery box and the tabs. That sketch is here:
Let me know if you have any questions.
John
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Paul:
That should be exactly what I need. Mine is a 6-cyl 2-door touring sedan, but I expect that they are identical in this regard. The line that I took out has so many kinks and bends, that I can't determine which are original and which are not. While mine will be only a runner ... not a show car ... I'm trying to do things as accurately as possible.
I appreciate the help,
John
p.s. If you need any more accurate measurements off the "tray portion" of the battery box, I can easily get those for you.
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Paul:
I'm not certain I completely understand the terms that you are using, but based on my best guess, I've taken two more photos of the front of the battery box looking back up at the front of the box from underneath.
Here is looking up and back at the driver-door side of the main support member. It is clearly riveted top and bottom to the frame with rivets that appear to have about 1/2" head diameter. That support cross-member does have a pair of slots in it (only one is shown in this picture) into which the sheet metal that supports the bottom of the battery sits.
Here is the view from underneath the car looking back up at the front side of the battery box looking toward the center of the car. Although it is less obvious becuase of the black undercoating, that main battery box cross member is also riveted to the part of the frame. The second slot into which the bottom support piece fits is also visible in the middle of this picture.
Let me know if that doesn't help to answer your question, and I will try to do a better job.
Thanks,
John
p.s. I hope that you enjoyed skiing in Colorado. I will be away for a couple of weeks soon to go cross-country skiing in Yellowstone ...
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I have removed the battery from my 1937 2-door touring sedan and taken several pictures looking down through the floor at the battery box.
Here are those images of a clearly unrestored battery box. If desired, I can provide dimensions ... at least until I re-install a new battery.
Here is are some of those images. I have tried to name each photo with the perspective (top view, front view, rear view, left side, and right side. All of those perspectives are as looking through the hole in the driver-side flloor.
Here is a top view with the front of the car at the top of this image:
Here is looking towaard the left side of the car:
Here is looking toward the right side of the car:
Here is looking toward the rear of the car:
Here is the front of the battery box (in this case) the front of the car is actually to the right so that the rusted out corner of the battery box is closest to the right front wheel.
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Sorry that I didn't see this earlier, but I have been out of town for an extended period of time.
I have taken a photo of part of the battery box ... the end closest to the driver's seat ... in my 1937 two-door touring sedan.
Note: this vehicle last ran in 1968 so this is probably a mid-sixties vintage battery. I see no evidence that this battery box has been altered ... and my battery box cover looks just like the photos that have already been posted.
I may be close to pulling this old battery and, if I do, will take and post additional photos. I have a "new" 6V battery ... but haven't gotten around to filling it with acid and giving it an initial charge. That shouldn't keep me from pulling the old battery.
I hope this helps and that I can generate a better photo/photos for you soon.
John
John
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Pontiac Flathead Enthusiasts:
I have a 1937 6-cylinder two-door touring sedan (body style 2611). I have lost some photos and can no longer remember how the brake line runs from the master cylinder to the tee attached to the front cross member.
Does anyone have a photo showing the routing of this line?
Am I correct that it comes out the front (rather than downward) connection to the master cylinder, makes an approximate 2" jog to the left to reach the inside of the frame and avoid the steering box, then goes through the two holes in the front cross member and finally makes a 90 degree upward turn to connect to the tee that connects to the front two wheel cylinders.
Thanks for your consideration.
John
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1953 Pontiac Tech Advisor Charles Coker is correct.
I have a recent copy of the California Pontiac Restoration catalog and 1949-1954 hood springs are part number C512700RS with a price of $40 per pair. Their phone number is 877-504-8124.
Good luck,
John
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Paul:
Thank you! I will contact Kurt. You did a nice job of cleaning that part … it looks new! I've got the original brass portion, but, for whatever reason, the bracket portion is gone.
Thanks again, John
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Kookie1:
Thanks for posting those photos. That is exactly what I was hoping for. It appears as if you found a new, front tee. Do you happen to remember wher you found it?
Thanks, John
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Tinindian:
Thank you for taking the time to respond. The Filling Station looks to be an interesting resource ... and one that I had not stumbled across myself. .
Note: thus far, the closest "tee with bracket" that I have been able to find is the TE06 from Inline Tube. While it may not be perfect, I think that it will work in this application. Here is a link to this item on their Ebay store:
Thanks again,
John
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Pontiac Flathead Owners:
I am trying to get a 1937 2-door touring sedan ready to run for the first time since 1968. I'm starting with brakes ... and have rebuilt the front wheel cylinders and master cylinders.
Now I am ready to run the brake lines on the front, but what I took off looked more like a roller coaster than factory-routed lines. Does anyone either have a description or a photo of how the lines should be routed through and then across the front crossmember?
Secondly, the front brass tee (from the master to the L and R front wheels) has a "rib" on the back of it as if is used to fit into a slot on a mounting tab. Are replacements of that tee and/or the mounting tab available? I have been unable to find a replacement.
Thanks for your consideration,
John
‘37 fuel pump fittings?
in Pontiac Flathead Owners
Posted
Hello Pontiac flathead experts:
I’m trying to get a 1937 Pontiac 2-door touring sedan with a 6-cylinder running again. To the best of my knowledge, it last ran in 1968.
I’ve re-done the front brakes including new front brake lines and wheel cylinders and master cylinder, before moving to the back, I thought I’d deal with the fuel system. In particular, I’m speaking about the fittings that go in and out of the fuel pump and into the carburetor. I expected those to be flared fittings, but it appears as it the tubing is straight, not flared, and must get slightly compressed by the tapered seat on the male and female sections of the fitting.
What are those fittings called? Is there a supplier you prefer for replacement fittings?
Thanks for your consideration.
Johb