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  1. Thank you both for your help. I will get a proper die, chase the threads carefully, and then re-assemble even more carefully. Thank you again for your expertise! I didn't want to rush ahead and make a mistake ... Stay safe! John
  2. I have a 1937 Pontiac that uses the Carter W-1 352S carburetor with a Climatic automatic choke. There is a short 0.25" diameter tube that connects the exhaust manifold to the threaded zinc of the choke housing. My existing carburetor attaches that tube to the choke housing with a brass-ferruled compression fitting. I think that is the wrong fitting. Does anyone know what is the proper nut and bushing or washer to attach this tube to the choke? I have attached three photos. The first is a close up of the threaded zinc choke housing. I believe that is a 7/16"-24 threa
  3. Happy New Year Flathead Fans: I'm in the process of replacing lines to/from carburetor and fuel pump. There is a 1/4" tube that, I think, goes from the exhaust manifold to the automatic choke of the Carter W-1. What I took off appeared to be a "conventional" brass ferrule and nut compression fitting. It seems as if that may not be the correct fitting for this connection to the cast zinc automatic choke housing. I think that a normal nut for a 1/4" compression fitting has 7/16-24 threads ... but even the nut alone doesn't seem like it wants to thread onto the cast zin
  4. Ooooh ... good thought. Here is the picture in my 1937 shop manual on the lubrication page. Hopefully, this will help solve the mystery. Stay safe! John
  5. Well, it may b e a hard rubber material. I guessed phenolic based on the era ... but I'm not sure ... and a hard rubber seems equally likely and I see no shine on the surface. It is definitely a matte finish. And 7 mm (0.2756") is very close to what I measured as 0.28", so you were probably exactly correct in that assessment. You clearly did a very nice job based on a low-quality photo. While mine is not perfect, I believe it to be original and if you or anyone else with casting skills wanted to borrow mine to make a mold, I would be happy to loan it out.
  6. Here is a close up of my 1937 6-cylinder spark plug bracket. Each half is identical. I would guess that it is cast phenolic ... but don't know for sure. The total length (based on my cheap calipers) is about 3.95", the length along the spark plug cavities is 1.00", the maximum thickness is about 0.50" and tapers slightly. The diameter of each spark plug "hole" is about 0.28". And, as you can see, the hole for the wire that comes from the coil is actually curved. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need further information. John
  7. Here is a picture of the 7-hole spark plug wire clip from my 1937 Pontiac 6. I've just applied some Liquid Wrench to see if I can get it taken off to make some careful measurements of the dimensions, if that helps. Note: in 1937, at least, there is also a second bracket that bolts to the head that helps route the seventh wire to the coil. I don't know if that was used in 1939 or not. This is taken from the driver's side so the firewall and coil are to the right of the image. Let me know if any of this helps. John
  8. Sorry to have been so tardy in seeing this ... I haven't checked in for some time but was in NM until recently and my car is in CA. Now that I am back in CA and have seen this message, I can send you a photo. Note: this car is not currently running and last ran in 1968. Does it still have the original muffler and tail pipe? I'm not sure ... but it is sufficiently rusted and nasty that it may be original. In any event, this is the photo taken from roughly the center of the rear bumber from below the bumper looking back along the tail pipe. I think that is what you we
  9. Yes, I was imprecise. The two posts on the brake light switch do not rotate. However, the ring terminals that are attached to the posts CAN rotate if the screws loosen, one or both terminals get bumped, etc. While most modern ring terminals have blue or red plastic surrounding the portion of the terminal to which the wire is crimped to the ring terminal, I'm not sure that original ring terminal were insulated. Particularly if that part were not insulated, a short would be quite easy. But, if one ring terminal is on a long post and one is on a short post, rotation of either ring terminal p
  10. Kookie1: I am far from an expert and hope to learn if/when some of our more knowledgeable members chime in, but here are my thoughts: #1: No clue ... haven't had the old tires off yet. #2. I think all of the fan blades should have the same angle. However, I seem to recall that there was a detailed discussion of this very issue on this forum in the last 6 months. While the car under discussion may not have been a '37, here is the link: #3. I think, but this is my guess ... not fact, that the brake pressure switch has two different length electrical p
  11. @Oldtech: Thank you for your post. I ended up putting a replacement master cylinder in … and that one did allow me to fill and bleed my lines and wheel cylinders. However, I would like to replace it with the original (but problematic) Delco. While I don’t have it in front of me (I’m in a different state …) I remember seeing the smaller pinhole that you describe but did not check whether it was open and clear. Thank you for helping me to understand how the master cylinder should work. John
  12. Pontiac1953, Russ, and Bloo: Thanks for your input and suggestions. This evening I began to pull out the master cylinder. The first thing that I noticed was that there was no brake fluid in either the front or real line where it connects to the master cylinder ... so, clearly, something is wrong with my master cylinder. I have a spare. While it is not the original Delco casting, just from looking into it, I can see that the aluminum "plunger" is in a different position than it is in mine. I suspect that means that something is jammed in mine. Tomorrow, I
  13. Bloo: Thanks for your quick response. Yes, my wheel cylinders had screws in them to keep out dust and dirt as well. I'm pretty certain that all of my special vacuum screws are not plugged and I took out the bleed screws before installing all of the wheel cylinders to inspect them and they were not plugged. If I remember correctly, the four wheel cylinders are NOS and the master cylinder was either NOS or was rebuilt by someone else. The three brake hoses and all brake lines are new. Thus far, I've seen no liquid in the vacuum cup with the Mityvac. I thin
  14. Bloo: Thank you for your quick response. I seem to be massing something pretty basic: I have filled the master cylinder reservoir ... but nothing I have done has reduced the level. I DO have one of the Harbor Freight MightyVac clones. If I am pumping on the closed bleed screw, I can easily achieve 25" of vacuum. However, when I crack the bleed screw and keep pumping to hold it at about 10" of vacuum, I get no fluid and the level in the reservoir has not gone down. They are the "funky" bleed screws that have the internal 8-24 thread. However, I happen to have some
  15. I am in the verge of filling and then bleeding my 1937 brake system. Earlier in this thread, Russ mentioned bench bleeding the master cylinder which is nothing that I have done before. I gather that fills the actual cylinder from the reservoir, but it is not clear whether I will need some sort of plugs on the front and rear connections at the MC to prevent creating a big mess ... or do I misunderstand what bench bleeding is? Alternatively, without bench bleeding, how does one insure that the master cylinder gets filled? Finally, and this may all be related: there is a hole approximately 1/
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