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  1. Yes, I was imprecise. The two posts on the brake light switch do not rotate. However, the ring terminals that are attached to the posts CAN rotate if the screws loosen, one or both terminals get bumped, etc. While most modern ring terminals have blue or red plastic surrounding the portion of the terminal to which the wire is crimped to the ring terminal, I'm not sure that original ring terminal were insulated. Particularly if that part were not insulated, a short would be quite easy. But, if one ring terminal is on a long post and one is on a short post, rotation of either ring terminal p
  2. Kookie1: I am far from an expert and hope to learn if/when some of our more knowledgeable members chime in, but here are my thoughts: #1: No clue ... haven't had the old tires off yet. #2. I think all of the fan blades should have the same angle. However, I seem to recall that there was a detailed discussion of this very issue on this forum in the last 6 months. While the car under discussion may not have been a '37, here is the link: #3. I think, but this is my guess ... not fact, that the brake pressure switch has two different length electrical p
  3. @Oldtech: Thank you for your post. I ended up putting a replacement master cylinder in … and that one did allow me to fill and bleed my lines and wheel cylinders. However, I would like to replace it with the original (but problematic) Delco. While I don’t have it in front of me (I’m in a different state …) I remember seeing the smaller pinhole that you describe but did not check whether it was open and clear. Thank you for helping me to understand how the master cylinder should work. John
  4. Pontiac1953, Russ, and Bloo: Thanks for your input and suggestions. This evening I began to pull out the master cylinder. The first thing that I noticed was that there was no brake fluid in either the front or real line where it connects to the master cylinder ... so, clearly, something is wrong with my master cylinder. I have a spare. While it is not the original Delco casting, just from looking into it, I can see that the aluminum "plunger" is in a different position than it is in mine. I suspect that means that something is jammed in mine. Tomorrow, I
  5. Bloo: Thanks for your quick response. Yes, my wheel cylinders had screws in them to keep out dust and dirt as well. I'm pretty certain that all of my special vacuum screws are not plugged and I took out the bleed screws before installing all of the wheel cylinders to inspect them and they were not plugged. If I remember correctly, the four wheel cylinders are NOS and the master cylinder was either NOS or was rebuilt by someone else. The three brake hoses and all brake lines are new. Thus far, I've seen no liquid in the vacuum cup with the Mityvac. I thin
  6. Bloo: Thank you for your quick response. I seem to be massing something pretty basic: I have filled the master cylinder reservoir ... but nothing I have done has reduced the level. I DO have one of the Harbor Freight MightyVac clones. If I am pumping on the closed bleed screw, I can easily achieve 25" of vacuum. However, when I crack the bleed screw and keep pumping to hold it at about 10" of vacuum, I get no fluid and the level in the reservoir has not gone down. They are the "funky" bleed screws that have the internal 8-24 thread. However, I happen to have some
  7. I am in the verge of filling and then bleeding my 1937 brake system. Earlier in this thread, Russ mentioned bench bleeding the master cylinder which is nothing that I have done before. I gather that fills the actual cylinder from the reservoir, but it is not clear whether I will need some sort of plugs on the front and rear connections at the MC to prevent creating a big mess ... or do I misunderstand what bench bleeding is? Alternatively, without bench bleeding, how does one insure that the master cylinder gets filled? Finally, and this may all be related: there is a hole approximately 1/
  8. Bloo: The wire on the left of the box definitely comes from the 6V starter terminal. I will try to see if the top two wires go to the dimmer switch and whether the bottom heads to the headlights. To answer your other questions: Yes, my car currently has some sort of sealed beam headlights … although I think that I have a set of reflectors, sockets, and bulbs to be able to go back to original bulbs and reflectors. Yes, my car had some form of newer generator … although I replaced it was a NOS 948-S when I replaced the radiator. I also have the proper
  9. Gary: Thanks for your input. I've double checked the shop manual and the only things that, to me, appear to be extra "boxes" are the voltage regulator ... which you have confirmed for me ... and the horn relay that is, not surprisingly, mounted on the horns. That, I think, leads me to consider accessories. To the best of my knowledge, I have three factory accessories: an AM radio, a heater, and a cigarette lighter. The shop manual shows details of the radio circuitry ... but I find no indication of anything like a relay that might be mounted on the firewall. As near
  10. Pontiac Flathead Experts and Afficianados: In the process of installing the master cylinder of my 1937 Pontiac (2-door touring sedan), I appear to have dislodged a wire to a gold-colored element on the firewall. I have attached a photo with the gold-colored element circled in black and the disconnected wire beneath it highlighted by a yellow arrow. There are two terminals on the lower side of the gold-colored box .... and I don't know to which of the two terminals the dislodged wire should be connected. I am also a bit surprised that there does not seem to be a second
  11. Kookie1 et al: Coincidentally, I just completed replacing all brake lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc on my 1937 6-cylinder two-door touring sedan last evening. This is also a "family heirloom". My former wife's mother had owned this car since 1941, and it last ran in 1968. When she passed away 15+ years ago, my former wife gave the car to me ... but not much happened to it. Regarding the brakes, while I would have started at the furthest wheel just like you did .... and would have likely encountered the same problems you did ... a careful reading of the b
  12. Bloo: Thank you for your investigation. I do have a Pontiac shop manual … but was originally looking in the brake section rather than the rear suspension section. Hopefully, I’ll learn a lot more when I get the brake drum pulled. Mobileparts: Thank you! While I think that I have new brake shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders, it’s been a while since I pulled out my parts stash … of my memory is faulty, I will give you a call. Thank you both! and Stay safe! John
  13. Bloo: Thank you again for your quick and informative post. I expect that my meager skill set does not allow me to be tearing apart the rear end, so I’m hopeful that some fresh differential fluid and some driving will take care of my rear bearings. Yes, the ‘37 has left hand threaded lug nuts on the left side. I’m lucky in that regard: when I was working, I worked with a lot of compressed gases. The “nasty” gases tend to have left hand threads so they can’t be accidentally installed where something like nitrogen or oxygen should go. Left-handed cylinder nuts have notches a
  14. While I’m waiting for double compression fuel line fittings to arrive, I thought that I would begin to work on the rear brakes and bearings. However, as a neophyte, I didn’t get very far … In addition to the 5 wheel lugs, there are two bolts. Do these bolts hold the brake housing to the axle flange? If so, am I correct in thinking that if I remove these two bolts, back off the brake adjuster and emergency brake, I should be able to get to the brake drums and rear bearings? Thanks for your consideration. John
  15. Bloo: Thank you for your quick and informative response. I just place an order from Blackhawk Supply for these Midland double compression parts. In fact, I found that Midland now appears to manufacture a 5/16” elbow that is nicely rounded like the original rather than the “square block” style that you mentioned. I think the Midland part number for the elbow that accommodates 5/16” tubing and 1/8” NPT is Midland 16131. Blackhawk Supply claims that they carry it. While is is pricier than the compression nuts and straight adapters ($12.50 instead of $2-3), it looks as if that is an op
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