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jdshott

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Everything posted by jdshott

  1. Thank you both for your help. I will get a proper die, chase the threads carefully, and then re-assemble even more carefully. Thank you again for your expertise! I didn't want to rush ahead and make a mistake ... Stay safe! John
  2. I have a 1937 Pontiac that uses the Carter W-1 352S carburetor with a Climatic automatic choke. There is a short 0.25" diameter tube that connects the exhaust manifold to the threaded zinc of the choke housing. My existing carburetor attaches that tube to the choke housing with a brass-ferruled compression fitting. I think that is the wrong fitting. Does anyone know what is the proper nut and bushing or washer to attach this tube to the choke? I have attached three photos. The first is a close up of the threaded zinc choke housing. I believe that is a 7/16"-24 threa
  3. Happy New Year Flathead Fans: I'm in the process of replacing lines to/from carburetor and fuel pump. There is a 1/4" tube that, I think, goes from the exhaust manifold to the automatic choke of the Carter W-1. What I took off appeared to be a "conventional" brass ferrule and nut compression fitting. It seems as if that may not be the correct fitting for this connection to the cast zinc automatic choke housing. I think that a normal nut for a 1/4" compression fitting has 7/16-24 threads ... but even the nut alone doesn't seem like it wants to thread onto the cast zin
  4. Ooooh ... good thought. Here is the picture in my 1937 shop manual on the lubrication page. Hopefully, this will help solve the mystery. Stay safe! John
  5. Well, it may b e a hard rubber material. I guessed phenolic based on the era ... but I'm not sure ... and a hard rubber seems equally likely and I see no shine on the surface. It is definitely a matte finish. And 7 mm (0.2756") is very close to what I measured as 0.28", so you were probably exactly correct in that assessment. You clearly did a very nice job based on a low-quality photo. While mine is not perfect, I believe it to be original and if you or anyone else with casting skills wanted to borrow mine to make a mold, I would be happy to loan it out.
  6. Here is a close up of my 1937 6-cylinder spark plug bracket. Each half is identical. I would guess that it is cast phenolic ... but don't know for sure. The total length (based on my cheap calipers) is about 3.95", the length along the spark plug cavities is 1.00", the maximum thickness is about 0.50" and tapers slightly. The diameter of each spark plug "hole" is about 0.28". And, as you can see, the hole for the wire that comes from the coil is actually curved. I hope this helps. Let me know if you need further information. John
  7. Here is a picture of the 7-hole spark plug wire clip from my 1937 Pontiac 6. I've just applied some Liquid Wrench to see if I can get it taken off to make some careful measurements of the dimensions, if that helps. Note: in 1937, at least, there is also a second bracket that bolts to the head that helps route the seventh wire to the coil. I don't know if that was used in 1939 or not. This is taken from the driver's side so the firewall and coil are to the right of the image. Let me know if any of this helps. John
  8. Sorry to have been so tardy in seeing this ... I haven't checked in for some time but was in NM until recently and my car is in CA. Now that I am back in CA and have seen this message, I can send you a photo. Note: this car is not currently running and last ran in 1968. Does it still have the original muffler and tail pipe? I'm not sure ... but it is sufficiently rusted and nasty that it may be original. In any event, this is the photo taken from roughly the center of the rear bumber from below the bumper looking back along the tail pipe. I think that is what you we
  9. Yes, I was imprecise. The two posts on the brake light switch do not rotate. However, the ring terminals that are attached to the posts CAN rotate if the screws loosen, one or both terminals get bumped, etc. While most modern ring terminals have blue or red plastic surrounding the portion of the terminal to which the wire is crimped to the ring terminal, I'm not sure that original ring terminal were insulated. Particularly if that part were not insulated, a short would be quite easy. But, if one ring terminal is on a long post and one is on a short post, rotation of either ring terminal p
  10. Kookie1: I am far from an expert and hope to learn if/when some of our more knowledgeable members chime in, but here are my thoughts: #1: No clue ... haven't had the old tires off yet. #2. I think all of the fan blades should have the same angle. However, I seem to recall that there was a detailed discussion of this very issue on this forum in the last 6 months. While the car under discussion may not have been a '37, here is the link: #3. I think, but this is my guess ... not fact, that the brake pressure switch has two different length electrical p
  11. @Oldtech: Thank you for your post. I ended up putting a replacement master cylinder in … and that one did allow me to fill and bleed my lines and wheel cylinders. However, I would like to replace it with the original (but problematic) Delco. While I don’t have it in front of me (I’m in a different state …) I remember seeing the smaller pinhole that you describe but did not check whether it was open and clear. Thank you for helping me to understand how the master cylinder should work. John
  12. Pontiac1953, Russ, and Bloo: Thanks for your input and suggestions. This evening I began to pull out the master cylinder. The first thing that I noticed was that there was no brake fluid in either the front or real line where it connects to the master cylinder ... so, clearly, something is wrong with my master cylinder. I have a spare. While it is not the original Delco casting, just from looking into it, I can see that the aluminum "plunger" is in a different position than it is in mine. I suspect that means that something is jammed in mine. Tomorrow, I
  13. Bloo: Thanks for your quick response. Yes, my wheel cylinders had screws in them to keep out dust and dirt as well. I'm pretty certain that all of my special vacuum screws are not plugged and I took out the bleed screws before installing all of the wheel cylinders to inspect them and they were not plugged. If I remember correctly, the four wheel cylinders are NOS and the master cylinder was either NOS or was rebuilt by someone else. The three brake hoses and all brake lines are new. Thus far, I've seen no liquid in the vacuum cup with the Mityvac. I thin
  14. Bloo: Thank you for your quick response. I seem to be massing something pretty basic: I have filled the master cylinder reservoir ... but nothing I have done has reduced the level. I DO have one of the Harbor Freight MightyVac clones. If I am pumping on the closed bleed screw, I can easily achieve 25" of vacuum. However, when I crack the bleed screw and keep pumping to hold it at about 10" of vacuum, I get no fluid and the level in the reservoir has not gone down. They are the "funky" bleed screws that have the internal 8-24 thread. However, I happen to have some
  15. I am in the verge of filling and then bleeding my 1937 brake system. Earlier in this thread, Russ mentioned bench bleeding the master cylinder which is nothing that I have done before. I gather that fills the actual cylinder from the reservoir, but it is not clear whether I will need some sort of plugs on the front and rear connections at the MC to prevent creating a big mess ... or do I misunderstand what bench bleeding is? Alternatively, without bench bleeding, how does one insure that the master cylinder gets filled? Finally, and this may all be related: there is a hole approximately 1/
  16. Bloo: The wire on the left of the box definitely comes from the 6V starter terminal. I will try to see if the top two wires go to the dimmer switch and whether the bottom heads to the headlights. To answer your other questions: Yes, my car currently has some sort of sealed beam headlights … although I think that I have a set of reflectors, sockets, and bulbs to be able to go back to original bulbs and reflectors. Yes, my car had some form of newer generator … although I replaced it was a NOS 948-S when I replaced the radiator. I also have the proper
  17. Gary: Thanks for your input. I've double checked the shop manual and the only things that, to me, appear to be extra "boxes" are the voltage regulator ... which you have confirmed for me ... and the horn relay that is, not surprisingly, mounted on the horns. That, I think, leads me to consider accessories. To the best of my knowledge, I have three factory accessories: an AM radio, a heater, and a cigarette lighter. The shop manual shows details of the radio circuitry ... but I find no indication of anything like a relay that might be mounted on the firewall. As near
  18. Pontiac Flathead Experts and Afficianados: In the process of installing the master cylinder of my 1937 Pontiac (2-door touring sedan), I appear to have dislodged a wire to a gold-colored element on the firewall. I have attached a photo with the gold-colored element circled in black and the disconnected wire beneath it highlighted by a yellow arrow. There are two terminals on the lower side of the gold-colored box .... and I don't know to which of the two terminals the dislodged wire should be connected. I am also a bit surprised that there does not seem to be a second
  19. Kookie1 et al: Coincidentally, I just completed replacing all brake lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc on my 1937 6-cylinder two-door touring sedan last evening. This is also a "family heirloom". My former wife's mother had owned this car since 1941, and it last ran in 1968. When she passed away 15+ years ago, my former wife gave the car to me ... but not much happened to it. Regarding the brakes, while I would have started at the furthest wheel just like you did .... and would have likely encountered the same problems you did ... a careful reading of the b
  20. Bloo: Thank you for your investigation. I do have a Pontiac shop manual … but was originally looking in the brake section rather than the rear suspension section. Hopefully, I’ll learn a lot more when I get the brake drum pulled. Mobileparts: Thank you! While I think that I have new brake shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders, it’s been a while since I pulled out my parts stash … of my memory is faulty, I will give you a call. Thank you both! and Stay safe! John
  21. Bloo: Thank you again for your quick and informative post. I expect that my meager skill set does not allow me to be tearing apart the rear end, so I’m hopeful that some fresh differential fluid and some driving will take care of my rear bearings. Yes, the ‘37 has left hand threaded lug nuts on the left side. I’m lucky in that regard: when I was working, I worked with a lot of compressed gases. The “nasty” gases tend to have left hand threads so they can’t be accidentally installed where something like nitrogen or oxygen should go. Left-handed cylinder nuts have notches a
  22. While I’m waiting for double compression fuel line fittings to arrive, I thought that I would begin to work on the rear brakes and bearings. However, as a neophyte, I didn’t get very far … In addition to the 5 wheel lugs, there are two bolts. Do these bolts hold the brake housing to the axle flange? If so, am I correct in thinking that if I remove these two bolts, back off the brake adjuster and emergency brake, I should be able to get to the brake drums and rear bearings? Thanks for your consideration. John
  23. Bloo: Thank you for your quick and informative response. I just place an order from Blackhawk Supply for these Midland double compression parts. In fact, I found that Midland now appears to manufacture a 5/16” elbow that is nicely rounded like the original rather than the “square block” style that you mentioned. I think the Midland part number for the elbow that accommodates 5/16” tubing and 1/8” NPT is Midland 16131. Blackhawk Supply claims that they carry it. While is is pricier than the compression nuts and straight adapters ($12.50 instead of $2-3), it looks as if that is an op
  24. Hello Pontiac flathead experts: I’m trying to get a 1937 Pontiac 2-door touring sedan with a 6-cylinder running again. To the best of my knowledge, it last ran in 1968. I’ve re-done the front brakes including new front brake lines and wheel cylinders and master cylinder, before moving to the back, I thought I’d deal with the fuel system. In particular, I’m speaking about the fittings that go in and out of the fuel pump and into the carburetor. I expected those to be flared fittings, but it appears as it the tubing is straight, not flared, and must get slightly compressed
  25. PP and Paul: Thanks for those nice photos and discussion. When I have a chance, I’m going to talk to some folks that know a lot about 3D printing. I’m not sure they will do something like this for me. However, if I am not mistaken, the process is roughly: 1. Use a 3D printer to print a model in just about any material. 2. Send the model to someone like Steele Rubber. They make a mold from the original model and then use that to make parts out of their standard rubber material. I don’t know what they charge for setup … and what the resulting pe
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